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When changing your gearing, bear in mind that a smaller counter shaft sprocket puts much more load, stress & wear on the chain with fewer rollers bearing the load.
Also, the C/S sprocket itself will bear much more stress with fewer teeth bearing the load and spinning at a higher RPM at any given road speed.
Far better to make the "gearing down" adjustments on the larger rear sprocket.
 

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From my anecdotal "research" on two very different TW's (one used almost exclusively off road, another used mostly on-road with some light trail use). Keep in mind these numbers are all "finger in the breeze" quotes, don't go nuts scrutinizing them.

The stock 14/50 gearing is pretty good if your use is an even mix of around-town road use, rarely/never use highways, and off road regularly with some tighter singletrack. MPG will hover around 60-70, and your realistic max speed is maybe 65, but it's happiest cruising not much past 55.

The popular 14/47 gearing is good if you tend to favor the road a bit more over trails, or when you do ride off road it's two-track or easier/faster singletrack. This can still handle tight stuff and hills OK, but in the gnarly stuff you're going to be on the clutch more. I'd approximate you get about a 5mpg boost on the road, and cruise speed comes up to the low 60's.

On my ATV tire equipped mud bogger TW, I ran 13/50. This also had a mod engine with stage 1 cam, piston, exhaust, jetting. Top speed was down to about 60 (those heavy chunky tires really sap power), and MPG was 50 at best. Then again, I was using it probably 80% off road/ 20% street, so road speed was not a big concern. You could stick in in first, floor it, and sink it in mud to the seat and it'd still keep that 8" wide Duro churning away no problem. The first time I did that (still on the stock chain), it snapped clean in half. Coupled with the extra snot from the engine(and a quality EK chain), 2nd was useable for long/softer hill climbs where you'd need some speed and couldn't crawl it in first. It'd be able to hold high rpms and keep the rear spinning up a sandy hill without bogging out and needing a frantic mid-climb downshift. This was in NY, so woodland trails that were often muddy, and there were a lot of quarry sand pits we'd play around in. 13/50 is quite low- 1st is a total crawler gear at this point and completely useless on the road- I'd always set off in 2nd, and still shift to 3rd almost immediately.

On my second street-oriented TW (stock rear tire), it came to me with 14/47 and a slip on/jetting. This seemed pretty perfectly matched to the engine's power. Once I did the stage 1 cam/piston swap, it felt a little under-geared. Acceleration was great, but I'd bang off 4 quick shifts and then leave it in 5th pretty much unless I had to stop again. Ended up going to a 15/47, which is better matched and keeps RPMs down even further on the road, since the engine has extra power to pull it now. I won't say 70mph is "relaxed", but it doesn't feel painful to the motor anymore, and top speed is into the 80s. This is in Texas, so much different riding climate. Mud is essentially unheard of, and it's much more hard/open/rocky so I don't need massive chunky tires and super low gearing to turn them.
 

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RaZed1 -
Where in Texas do you live?
I'm in Timbercreek Canyon, between Amarillo and Palo Duro Canyon.
I'm liking those mild builds you describe, I've had good luck with similar.
Maybe a little minor headwork...port matching, a little general cleanup.
Did you read the thread yesterday from the guy who builds the CDI units? +3 deg. advance at high RPM.
Hmmm...
 

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I'm in Austin, so my TW here is mostly my urban runabout that hops curbs and dirt roads now and then. The piston/cam combo is relatively inexpensive (under $300), easy to install, and nets a very noticeable bump in power. I know you can go farther with the 230 or 250 top ends, the stage 2/3 cams, or whatever else you can think of, but at that point to me the returns are diminishing for far more expense and effort.

Timing advance had crossed my mind- another common trick to boost power a bit that's relatively easy and cheap. I didn't see the bit about aftermarket CDI's, might investigate that a bit.
 

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Maybe this will be helpful for folks too:
 
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Thanks GCRAD1!
Saved me a bit of looking.

I'm just about finished with what I'd call a "major re-do" on my TW. Less weight, FMF pipe, breathing, carb-tuning and a bunch of other mods not related to power or speed.
Saving gearing changes until I see what difference all that makes.
~17 lbs. of lost weight so far, shooting for 20 but only a bit more to go, so I may not make that. Time to go on a diet?
Now about ready to decide what gearing adjustments are called for.

My riding is 85-90% on pavement, improved un-paved roads, etc.
And some "Urban Dual-Sport" that I'll write about later.
It's basically an around town, exploring farm & ranch roads, campground areas and a beer & ice getter for camping.

It's obviously geared too low for that and way too buzzy & strung-out feeling. Don't want to flog that "mighty-mill" more than I have to!
My gut-feel & experience says go down 2-teeth on rear sprocket, but I want to put the numbers to it before I push the button.
It has no real acceleration anyway and I don't need maximum off-road pulling power so it seems a decent compromise. But I do want it to pull the -2 teeth gearing at speed.
I'll replace the OE stuff with a quality O-ring chain & lightweight sprocket (a little more weight off that anvil-heavy iron wheel!)

A bonus should be having a "real" 1st gear, much more useful (for my riding) than the stock "granny-gear"!

What do you guys think of my -2 teeth gearing guesstimate? 14 front/48 rear.
Has anyone tried 14/48?
Experience? Suggestions?
 

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That's what I did. With proper carb tuning the bike feels like it was made for a 15 tooth front sprocket.
Which rear sprocket did you use?
What were you trying to achieve?
What kind of riding do you do?

I don't mind switching to a 15 front if it is the best solution...but not if the same or close improvement can be had with the stock 14 and careful rear sprocket selection.
I'm not looking for a major change, just incremental improvement.
I can't afford the time or $$ to experiment, I need to nail it first time out!
I know a 15 is easier on the chain and itself than a 14, but that's not a concern.

Has anyone tried the 14/48 combination I'm considering?
After re-reading this whole thread I am also considering a 14/47, or maybe 46..thoughts?

Thanks for the help!
 

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I only need front sprocket changes and I have run up to 16 tooth fronts with the OEM chain length. With a 16 I had to remove the master link and wrap the chain then re-install the master link to allow the OEM chain length to fit and the adjusters were all the way forward

Every front tooth equates to aprx 4 rear teeth so 15 is ideal for 95% of TW's out there I like the 16 tooth for urban warriors and open dirt desert riding like I prefer but my buddy runs 11 tooth up front with an ATV tire on his elk hauler / stump puller pack bike
 

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Based on what you say you want the sprocket change for(in post #167), 15T front is the best option. It'a almost indentical to 47t rear and it's easier on the chain.
Now, if you want to cruise at highway speeds(50-75mph),while being comfortable and not over-revving the engine and since your engine is tuned, go for 15T front-45T rear.
You will be almost exactly at max torque(aprx. 7000rpm) at 4 speed with 50 mph and 5 speed with 65 mph.
 

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pls folks lets stop with this "easy on the chain" nonsense, it's a chain folks !!!

Chains by nature are a very durable item and btw they cost about what dinner for the family at Taco Bell costs and can be treated as a maintenance item on a TW

Has anybody ever witnessed a chain that failed because of a smaller front sprocket ?
 

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Which rear sprocket did you use?
What were you trying to achieve?
What kind of riding do you do?
I'm still running the stock rear but I am considering a 47 rear when I need a new chain.
Withe the 15 the bike just winds out better and cruises at higher speeds without as much effort. It still has plenty of torque and can accelerate on uphill slopes in 5th gear. I think the TW needs the 14 tooth front with the factory carb settings.
I ride mostly back, country roads and casual trails with a little two lane highway cruising.
 

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pls folks lets stop with this "easy on the chain" nonsense, it's a chain folks !!!

Chains by nature are a very durable item and btw they cost about what dinner for the family at Taco Bell costs and can be treated as a maintenance item on a TW

Has anybody ever witnessed a chain that failed because of a smaller front sprocket ?
Chill man!
I just mention it as a extra benefit of 15t front instead of 47T rear! And it's also cheaper!
The chain won't fail but will stretch sooner.
 

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The low speed in first gear is very useful in tough situations such as heavy brush, going over logs or very steep climbing. I was once in a situation that the first gear was not low enough to get out of a mud/ water tall grass area
 
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