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Rocky Mountain ATV Rack. My crude modification.

4K views 21 replies 7 participants last post by  grewen 
#1 · (Edited)
I purchased this rack after much research. The top of the line Cycleracks, while appealing was also a little overkill for my purpose not to mention the price. While I do not mind spending the money for something I can and will really use, the Cycleracks was way more than I needed. Enter the Rocky Mountain Rack. At $70 it looked pretty good. I realize its shortcomings, the rear light mounting points that is, but for my intended purpose it was adequate. Yes, this rack will not make Outer Mongolia with a 60 lb. load but then again that's not my intended destination plus I'm a very light traveler, I never carry more than I really need. However, a little more real estate was needed so I set out to try for some improvement. Please keep in mind I have no fabricating skills, I'm an urban dweller lucky enough to have a garage. I own a tape measure, a drill, a hacksaw and an some wrenches and that is it. From the included images I'm sure you can see what went into this. Nothing spectacular, specially in comparison with some of the stuff some of the members here can build. The only weight this rack will have to support is that of a 3 gal. Rotopax, let's call it 20 LB? Everything else I'll pack will go behind my back. All in all it came out fairly stiff with very minimal flex. Material was about $30 including aluminum stock and metric bolts. Hopefully it will take me down Baja and back without breaking, specially if we consider that I'll stay off dirt trails, at least on this trip anyway as I have no experience whatsoever. Constructive criticism appreciated. I hope I attached the jpegs correctly. Wood Table Room Furniture Plywood
Wood Table Room Furniture Plywood
 

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#3 ·
Thank you TW Brian, simple is just my speed. My next project aside from finding a suitable top box that's sturdy but not too heavy would be to try to reinforce the rear lights mounting points but so far I have not come up with anything that would not require welding. Hopefully if I sit there long enough looking at them maybe a light bulb will turn on. Of course painting it black is next. Thanks again.
 
#4 · (Edited)
I think that looks great, nicely thought out build.
Are those nuts sticking upwards or some sort of bungee attachment things? I would have used Flat pan bolts so the top was smooth but that's just me.
Whatever you are going to put on top, if it is a hard top-case you'll want it flush, not sticking up in the air at all, no voids.
Smooth on top will also let you take advantage of the angle-aluminum you have fore & aft which is a nice idea BTW. You can adjust that smaller or larger using you same design when you find what you are going to mount.

If it's soft case or day bag, you are good to go.
 
#6 ·
Thank you Stagewex and you are absolutely correct, flat pan bolts would have been a much better choice for all the reasons you mentioned, if I knew what those bolts were when I started this project, haha. My knowledge about such matters is less than zero. I was in the beauty/photography business before I retired so not much chance to get mechanically inclined, haha. But who’s to say that I cannot replace those bolts as soon as I Google what they look like? Thanks again, constructive criticism always welcome.
 
#5 ·
Looks good. I'm a guy who occasionally runs into things so fear sharp edges like the rack's corners. No big deal, if mine I would get surround perimeter with closed cell pipe insulation. Make mitered corners like this perhaps. Here is an idea if you are concerned: Photography

Stuff comes in several diameters and grades, all all slit longitudinally with self adhesive strips on the cut. I prefer the style that is a bit more durable with a more rubbery feel as opposed to the more crumbly stiffer foam seen the the above picture. Rubbery stuff like this has a better feel. Both last longer with tape or something to protect from UV and abrasion. Rope Product Skipping rope Synthetic rubber Auto part
 
#7 ·
Looks good. I'm a guy who occasionally runs into things so fear sharp edges like the rack's corners. No big deal, if mine I would get surround perimeter with closed cell pipe insulation. Make mitered corners like this perhaps. Here is an idea if you are concerned: View attachment 189324
Stuff comes in several diameters and grades, all all slit longitudinally with self adhesive strips on the cut. I prefer the style that is a bit more durable with a more rubbery feel as opposed to the more crumbly stiffer foam seen the the above picture. Rubbery stuff like this has a better feel. Both last longer with tape or something to protect from UV and abrasion. View attachment 189326
Thank you Fred. That’s my next trip to Home Depot. I did round up all the sharp corners with a Dremel but they are still too sharp for old people with thin skin, haha. I was trying to find a remedy for that issue but pipe insulation did not cross my mind. Again, thank you for the suggestion.
 
#9 ·
Yes, the thought crossed my mind but I wanted something a little wider to hold the whole size of the Rotopax, in other words I did not want part of the Rotopax to hang past the edges of the rack. The other reason was that I wanted a place to bolt a tool tube or two and the sides of the rack extension will serve that function well. I may be wrong but I’m thinking I may still be able to use the Rotopax mount by using longer bolts in that area. If you have suggestions please share, I can use all the help I can get. Thank you.
 
#10 ·
i did the same with 2 tool tubes, worked good. as far as mounting a rotopax on your rack, you will have to do something with all those bolts sticking up as they will damage the plastic rotopax. here is a pic of my rack and top box. i did have a rotopax mounted on top of the box, but it was a pain in the butt, so i sold it and bought a clark tank which worked much better View attachment 102.jpg
 
#16 ·
i did the same with 2 tool tubes, worked good. as far as mounting a rotopax on your rack, you will have to do something with all those bolts sticking up as they will damage the plastic rotopax. here is a pic of my rack and top box. i did have a rotopax mounted on top of the box, but it was a pain in the butt, so i sold it and bought a clark tank which worked much better View attachment 189370
The bolts are covered with vacuum caps just for protection, none the less I bought flat head bolts which I will install as soon as they arrive. As far as the Clarke tank while convenient I find it a little too pricey for me.
 
#11 ·
You can change those bolts to flatheads anytime. I have put on and taken off my Pelican case project 3 times now. Each time I find something or a better way or position to mount it.
Close to the end now. It's all experimentation.

I like how grewen mounted those tubes under his rack. Good use of space and seems to be somewhat protected by the rack itself if you fall over.
 
#12 ·
Grewen tool tube mount also necessitated a clever relocation of rear turn signals. Well done!
They hang low enough to be visible from the sides, a potentially important safety feature. They are also better protected from snagging and accidental breakage.
 
#13 · (Edited)
good eye, thanks Stagewex and Fred. that set up worked good except for one thing. the top box was too big, as in the fact the bigger the box the more you carry. i was carrying things i would never use. my next bike i put on a smaller box, which worked out way better. i also made Vehicle Automotive tire Tire Automotive lighting Fender
Vehicle Motor vehicle Mode of transport Motorcycle Car
up a rack to hold so cheap saddle bags which came off very easily so i can use them on 2 other bikes. if i ever want to go camping, with this set up, i can still through a duffle bag on top.
 
#14 ·
When I finish mine on Saturday I hope I'll show pictures of the first Pelican I was going to use... talking about "too big".

Similar to going food shopping real hungry, without your wife or without someone else with common-sense and the ability to "focus".
:)
 
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