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2021 TW
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I have read on the interwebb that seafoam can help clean a wet clutch. Like if your new riding buddy put purple car motor oil in his Chinese bike and its slipping now. 2oz of seafoam per 1qt of oil.
The plan is to add 4 oz of seafoam, warm up the bike and drain oil, change oil to shell rotella T4 15w-40 with 3 more oz of seafoam for a few miles 20-100 miles. Then change oil and filter adding yamalube.
Any other wet clutch flush ideas?
 

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I have read on the interwebb that seafoam can help clean a wet clutch. Like if your new riding buddy put purple car motor oil in his Chinese bike and its slipping now. 2oz of seafoam per 1qt of oil.
The plan is to add 4 oz of seafoam, warm up the bike and drain oil, change oil to shell rotella T4 15w-40 with 3 more oz of seafoam for a few miles 20-100 miles. Then change oil and filter adding yamalube.
Any other wet clutch flush ideas?
Nothin wrong with some purple, I drink that stuff all the time.
 

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2017 w/2009 bodywork & 2015 front fender
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After purchasing my first TW (09'er) back in summer of '18, I changed the oil, and ran some SeaFoam in it (whatever the instructions suggested re amount) I did notice a 'lil bit of clutch slippage. Was running a name brand 10w-40 non-synthetic, so 99.99999% sure the oil wasn't the cause. After running a few hundred miles I drained. It was fairly black, but have found it doesn't take terribly long for the oil to blacken with just standard oil changes. After changing it with just oil....the slippage wasn't there.

No long term effects, as this happened at 3k miles on the OD, and sold it with 12.2k summer of '21.
 

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Nothin wrong with some purple, I drink that stuff all the time.
Were you & Fred drinkin' it last night? :unsure:

 

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2023 TW 200, 2019 YZ250, 1996 DR650, Trailblazer 250, TrailBoss330, Kubota B20
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78 Posts
ATF has always been my flushing agent of choice. It has very high detergent properties and thus the ability to clean internal parts. In old car engines with hydraulic lifters, it will penetrate and free up the lifters, thus stopping lifter chatter. In sludgy small engines (mowers, etc that have never had the oil changed) I've used it to free up stuck rings. I'll fill the engine with just ATF and start it at idle, let it run until good and hot, then drain. After 2 or 3 cycles of this, compression is increased, smoking decreased, and crankcase is clean. I just wouldn't make any top speed runs on the Tdub while filled with only ATF. Good luck.
 

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ATF has always been my flushing agent of choice. It has very high detergent properties and thus the ability to clean internal parts. In old car engines with hydraulic lifters, it will penetrate and free up the lifters, thus stopping lifter chatter. In sludgy small engines (mowers, etc that have never had the oil changed) I've used it to free up stuck rings. I'll fill the engine with just ATF and start it at idle, let it run until good and hot, then drain. After 2 or 3 cycles of this, compression is increased, smoking decreased, and crankcase is clean. I just wouldn't make any top speed runs on the Tdub while filled with only ATF. Good luck.
Can you do the same with seafoam? Is there potential damage to the engine cleaning it out this way?

Legit question as I've never used ATF or Seafoam before
 

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2023 TW 200, 2019 YZ250, 1996 DR650, Trailblazer 250, TrailBoss330, Kubota B20
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Good legit question. The Seafoam container says it can be used as an engine cleaning agent. I have used it for fuel systems for a long time and have never used it as a crankcase cleaner. ATF doesn't have engine cleaning listed on its label. I've always used the ATF for crankcases. And in my experience, ATF has worked in a variety of engines. But, as always, do as you see fit. If you can flush it out, that's cheaper than a clutch replacement.
 

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What little I know ATF has less detergent additives than engine oil. There is no combustion happening inside a transmission, hopefully, so less sludge and acids etc to worry about.
I would try your idea first of a couple oil changes.Hot oil changes have worked for me in the past. Ride it, get the engine and oil nice and hot. Then pull in the garage and dump the oil right away. A good amount of all the gunk and crud will be in suspension in the oil. If you think it needs it,do it again.
 

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Oldworld, do you use a bond breaker of sorts to re-use the clutch cover gasket? Was considering light coat of Vaseline on the gasket's adhesive side next time.
Carefully razoro blading & cleaning the clutch side case half gasket surface has never been fun for me since the OEM gasket really gets glued down. If the cover is readily removable then inspection and clutchwork becomes easier.
 

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Sea foam is safe for wet clutch motorcycles- for use in oil- use specific amount listed on side panel on container- it does clean gunk- change your oil often-
Marvel mystery oil is NOT-safe for wet clutch motorcycles it has friction reducing properties-
Both products can be used in the gasoline tank
of TW’s-I run MMO in summer and sea foam for winter storage- I always follow recommend dosage on containers for use in gasoline- in previous tw I used plain diesel in a surshot to wash clutch basket and clean case while side cover is off with oil pan underneath to catch drips
 

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Fred, for me a light coat of engine oil or grease on both sides of any gasket helps the parts to separate without tearing or otherwise mangling the gasket. Seems to help the gaskets swell and conform to the two mating surfaces as well.
Things like case covers can be removed a couple times and reused with no leaks or other issues.
 

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Was considering light coat of Vaseline on the gasket's adhesive side next time.
That's what I do, Fred. It works well enough for me. I always have a "work" jar of petroleum jelly around anyway to keep those 870's from rusting up.
 
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