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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I spent the past three weekends turning this:

IMG_8233.JPG

Into this:

IMG_6104.JPG

So now that I have a happy daughter, it was my time to go back to the garage and work on my trailer wheel mod. Turns out that the first thing that I needed to do was get this slow old '87 parted out and broke down to clear some room in the garage. I really struggle to understand how the '87's are fast...mine can't move without pushing it! :p Took the engine out, and stowed all the misc. parts in a box for future scrounging. The frame is in good shape if anyone needs one.

IMG_6095.JPG

Much to my surprise, after removing the side cover and cleaning everything to replace the drive sprocket I realize the current sprocket is a 12 tooth and is held in place by a circlip. 12 tooth vs. new 14 tooth:

IMG_6099.JPG

IMG_6103.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
So now, the challenge is that the two screws that hold the cover plate in place are seized. I want to replace the bearing and seal but can't budge the screws. Any thoughts?

IMG_6105.JPG

In attempting to remove one screw with a drill impact drive I wallowed out one of the screws. May be headed for an easy out, or? Any suggestions would be helpful. When all this goes back together, some anti-seize is in order.

Hopefully, by the weekend I'll have new parts in hand, meaning two screws and a sprocket holder that were missing on the 12 tooth installation. I'm stoked to get the trailer wheel mounted with the 65 tooth rear sprocket but there always seems to be one more thing to do!
 

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I couldn't see your pic. If you can get a center punch dead center of that screw. Get a bit the same size as the shaft and drill the center and the head will pop right off. I actually suggest a left handed drill bit to do this. These drill in counterclockwise so your drill has to be in reverse. The reason is that sometimes when drilling it out counterclockwise they will hang up and unscrew out of the hole. Once you get the cover off you can try and lube it, vice grip it etc if it didn't come out when drilling.
 

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...


Small Chisel

Couple hits straight down on the side
of the stuck screw, to make a deep-enough
mark so the chisel-tip fits inside and then turn
the chisel at an angle(or use a small punch)
and gently tap -- to drive the screw out.
(Gently - to prevent case damage.)



OR



Use one of these:



Bolt.jpg



And on JIS screws,
always start with one of these:


JIS.jpg


*On stuck screws, I will usually start off
by tightening, in-order to feel if the
torque is gonna 'give', a bit.

Counter-Intuitive :numbness: but that works sometimes, too.
:)



youngfred
 

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Try soaking with PB blaster for a day or two. Then carefully heat if it still doesn't want to move. If you can heat it without damaging paint, rubber or plastic parts that can help break it free. The impact driver was the correct try but it's hard to find the jis bits for the driver. I have used small cold chisles by striking strait down on an edge and then when there is a groove hitting it at an angle along the edge. Like Young fred mentions. Do you have a good vise grip? If you can get it to bite on the head give it a quick rap with a hammer to try and rotate and break it free. Then I would drill or Also since the head is messed up grind a flat groove with a dremil and use a flat blade with the hammer impact after PB and heat.
 

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I've had my share of seized screws on my project BW. Here's what I used

50% Transmission Fluid 50 % Acid Tone (thanks to Smitty Blackstone)
JIS
Mini vice Grips
Dremel to cut slot to allow a standard screw driver
Reverse drill bits
Ez out
Hammer
Heat

You will need Taps and oil
 

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The metal Yamaha uses is soft as warn butter.

When I used the impact wrench the Phillips bit actually cut into the screw head and reformed the grooves into the same as the bit. So, use a slightly larger bit than one you think will be the correct size and I bet a couple of sharp wacks and that bolt will loosen right up. Good luck.
 

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This sounds like a bad dream!

I've had my share of seized screws on my project BW. Here's what I used

50% Transmission Fluid 50 % Acid Tone (thanks to Smitty Blackstone)
JIS
Mini vice Grips
Dremel to cut slot to allow a standard screw driver
Reverse drill bits
Ez out
Hammer
Heat

You will need Taps and oil
 

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LOL it IS.
 

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I've had my share of seized screws on my project BW. Here's what I used

50% Transmission Fluid 50 % Acid Tone (thanks to Smitty Blackstone)
JIS
Mini vice Grips
Dremel to cut slot to allow a standard screw driver
Reverse drill bits
Ez out
Hammer
Heat

You will need Taps and oil
Done the Drimel tool, cut the slot many times! I usually start, using a thin cutting wheel, cut a straight slot in the head. Then I use my Riobi impact driver....

And the same as Elime and Preditor has said!

Jim

a008351b-82a8-4e1b-bd4a-85c6a1089684_1000.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #14
All good tips, thanks everyone! I'm going to try the PB Blaster and I already ordered an impact driver:

impact driver.jpg

So come Wednesday I should be able to break anything loose!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So 2 1/2 days of soaking in PB Blaster I still couldn't unscrew these with a large hand held phillips driver. However, with a couple of firm, not hard taps, look what gave in to the Admiral's "go to" tool...and it's little brother the impact driver!

IMG_6124.JPG

Thanks to everyone for the tips. How come you can have a garage full of tools yet never have the right one, what's up with that?! UPS was a day late delivering the impact driver but when it arrived it made short work of the seized screws. Love it!
 

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I think those hammer impacts are most effective because the blow pushes in while turning. Glad you got them out.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
As elime pointed out, the impact driver does re-groove the screw head and provides a good bite into the head itself. The key here is to not strip the head too badly to begin with.

I have the engine out of the '87 that I have aspirations of rebuilding, I know the impact driver will get a hell of a lot of use. It seems everything is stuck on that thing.
 
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