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Discussion Starter #1
Just purchased a 2010 TW with 1000 miles- bike sat for a while with old gas. Have done some initial maintenance- oil and filter change, clean and lube air filter, bleed front brake line, lube and clean chain and sprockets.
I am having trouble figuring out hot to set the idle- how long does bike generally have to warm up when temps are in the 70's? Seems like the it takes quite a while for idle to settle down and I have to turn it up initially and then turn down after riding a few miles. It was a little confusing doing the valve check and adjust- it took me a while to figure out where the proper TDC was, but I finally figured it out after doing some reading here in the forum.
Anything else major/minor that I should still do?
I put in Shell Rotella T 5W40 full synthetic in the crankcase- any problems using synthetic after only 1,000 miles?
Thanks in advance for your help.
I live in the Harrisburg, Pa area.
Frank
 

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Just purchased a 2010 TW with 1000 miles- bike sat for a while with old gas........
Frank
It sounds like you are well on your way to getting your TW back on the road.

The most common problem with a TW that has been "sitting for a while" is a gummed up/dirty carburetor.

The easiest thing to try is to add a double dose (4oz.) of Seafoam to a full tank of gas. Then run the bike, then let it sit, then repeat. It takes a while for this to work. If you are lucky, the engine will run better, more smoothly.

If you are not lucky, you will get to learn a lot about the internal workings of your carb...or you will need to get a shop to clean it for you.

Removing the cap covering the pilot screw, and fine tuning the pilot screw/circuit will help reduce the warm up time. There's more.......

Download the Owner's Manual and Repair Manual:

Idle Speed Adjustment: Chapter 3, page 6 of the Repair Manual.

http://tw200forum.com/forum/technical-write-ups/70-service-repair-manuals.html

Start reading some of the info in the Tech WriteUps.

Technical Write-Ups

Yamaha considers your engine "broken in" (poor choice of words) by 600 miles. Synthetic is OK as long as it is "motorcycle specific" ....... Please no oil discussions..... ;)

jb
 

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Shell Rotella T 5W40! Does it say anywhere on the jug, For use in motorcycles with wet clutches? I suspect not so I would dump it out and use it in the lawn mower and then get some real MC full synthetic oil for a wet clutch.

If the bike sat for a while with old gas, probably E-10 ethanol, dump the tank, drain the carb and pray that fresh fuel with a double dose of Seafoam fuel additive or Lucas will clear up what is in there. If it was my bike I would remove the tank, remove the petcock and clean the entire fuel delivery system. If you don't and it sat long enough you will be like Arnold Schwarzeneger, "I'll Be Back".

GaryL
 

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Hi Gary,

Why don't you write up a "sticky" on "What to do when your TW has been sitting a while".

It would save everyone some time.

No offense meant to biker44. He has addressed nearly all the maintenance concerns. :)

BTW, biker44, are you using the choke/enricher during warm up?

jb
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Nubi Questions

Hi Jb,
Thanks for the response. Yes, I am using the choke during warm up. I have a 1998 Yamaha Virago XV1100 that uses a carb. Actually bike came with dual carbs and I converted to single carb. I was told to only use the choke on the Virago sparingly so as not to foul the plugs. So I was trying to use the same procedure on the TW. Is there any problem letting the choke on for a minute or more on the TW where the plug would foul?
Do you know the mfg and designation of the carb on the TW? I had read that on older carburated bikes that the float material did not hold up to the new ethanol gas. I was thinking that I might want to get a "new" float made of material that withstands ethanol gas. One other thing- I have been using Shell Rotella T 5W40 full synthetic(non energy conservng) in my Virago's for many many miles. Like the TW, the Virago has a wet clutch- I have no problem with the clutch on the Virago so when I replaced the oil and filter in the TW, I used the 5W40 Rotella T.
Frank
 

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The float itself is not an issue with E-10 fuel but the phase separation of the fuel when it sits for a long period is a problem. Separated ethanol goes to the bottom of the tank and forms a milky, moisture laden gunk that clogs the screens on the petcock and ends up in the bottom of your float bowl. Any bike that sat for a while with ethanol gas in it is subject to this crud in both the tank and carb. You can prove it to yourself by removing the tank and completely emptying it into a white bucket. You will be amazed at the crud that comes out. The TW carb can be pretty finicky if it is fed this gunk. Carburetor issues are one of the most prolific subjects talked about here and 95% of it has to do with crappy gas called E-10.

Others here use some blend of Rotella oil but I am not sure which of the many they do use. I stick with oils that clearly state for use in motorcycles with wet clutches. The difference in price from one jug to another and one brand or another is minimal in my opinion and a couple quarts here or there is a non issue to me. I trust Mobil 1, full synthetic 4T racing oil but that is my cross to bear.

Leaving the choke on during warm up should not foul the plug unless there is some other issue. My TWs both have the old style carb unlike your new style. The choke/enricher has a two position like a full choke and half choke. I start it cold on full choke and then move to half as the engine warms up. Mine takes about a minute while others report a much longer warm up period.

GaryL
 

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Hi Gary,

Why don't you write up a "sticky" on "What to do when your TW has been sitting a while".

It would save everyone some time.


jb
I may very well do this JB as it does seem to be a commonly asked thread in these archives. I will give it a whirl some evening when the keg runs dry and Jose Cuervo is not visiting.:eek:ccasion14:

GaryL
 

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Enricher on my 2011. I just try to start it in. Usually that doesn't work if it's cold. I pull it all the way out, and start. Then I start moving it in as it begins to sound "right". My, that was helpful, wasn't it. :D We also have a '94 and a '98. The '94 we got from Tinman is the quickest starter. The '98 takes second, and my 2011 is the snail on the cold start lineup. Never had any problem with fouling, as GaryL states, from starting using the enricher and just moving it in as seems appropriate. I also agree on the Mobile 1 4T. Proven to my mind in these units, so I figure why experiment.
 

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If you shim the needle, the bike will start easier and you don't have to warm it up to ride away. Before I shimmed the needle, if I didn't warm it up for about 3 minutes, the bike would die as I tried to take off. It's only a 30 minute job to remove the top of the carb to shim the needle.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks, how far up does the needle have to be shimmed? I haven't looked at the carb schematic for the TW200. Who is the carb mfg. for the TW200? On my other bike that has a Mikuni 40 carb, there are grooves and a clip to position the needle valve.
 

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Shell Rotella T 5W40! Does it say anywhere on the jug, For use in motorcycles with wet clutches? I suspect not so I would dump it out and use it in the lawn mower and then get some real MC full synthetic oil for a wet clutch.
GaryL
Shell Rotella T6 (5W40) has always been okay for use in motorcycles with wet clutches. It has JASO-MA specs listed right on the container.

JASO-MA[edit]
JASO is an acronym that stands for "The Japanese Automotive Standards Organization." Among other things, they set standards for oil to be used in motorcycles.

Shell Rotella T 15W-40 conventional oil does list on its packaging JASO MA as one of the specifications it meets. Note that the 10W-30 conventional oil does not list JASO-MA.

The newer fully synthetic T6 5W-40 oil lists JASO-MA compliance on its packaging and on the Rotella website.


Back to regularly scheduled program.
Simba
 

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Shell Rotella T6 (5W40) has always been okay for use in motorcycles with wet clutches. It has JASO MA specs listed right on the container.
Back to regularly scheduled program.
Simba
That is why I said what I said! Shell Rotella probably has 20 different oil blends on the market so you can't just toss in any weight Rotella and be good. Any oil we put in our TWs should be specifically formulated for wet clutches and that is my point.

GaryL
 

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No 5W should ever be used in a TW as its old school engine technology has clearances too wide for the 5w to lubricate properly. Check your owner manual for proper viscosities page 8-1.

EDIT: All your carb tuning questions answered here.
 
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