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I planned on riding the TW to work this morning, starter button... Click, click, click, dead. I've had this 01 on a tender since I bought it in January, but didn't know the state of the battery, till now. Batteries Plus Bulbs has one for $45, there is a store in town, handy. any experience with them ? My bikes are garaged, always on a tender, and ridden all year long.

Still, not a bad morning, the Vstrom brought me in to the office, and my work will take me to the south end of the valley, through the orchards and vinyards, on what will be a warm sunny day, life sure is good.
 

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I planned on riding the TW to work this morning, starter button... Click, click, click, dead. I've had this 01 on a tender since I bought it in January, but didn't know the state of the battery, till now. Batteries Plus Bulbs has one for $45, there is a store in town, handy. any experience with them ? My bikes are garaged, always on a tender, and ridden all year long.

Still, not a bad morning, the Vstrom brought me in to the office, and my work will take me to the south end of the valley, through the orchards and vinyards, on what will be a warm sunny day, life sure is good.
Before you decide what Battery, you may want to ensure your batteries electrolyte level is good in all the cells, providing you're using a OEM type wet cell battery. I've had a battery go dead on me like you and when I checked the electrolyte level I found all the cells were very low. I topped each cell with distilled water if you don't have the acid electrolyte on hand. Just don't add tap water. Then charge. Of course if the battery is too far gone they you have to go the new battery route.

Generic comment follows...Lots of us here on the forum use all kinds of batteries and the opinions and prices vary. For a wet cell battery the choice you posted is in the ballpark price wise. No experience with this vender.
 

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Whatever you end up with, go with a maintenance free battery, I wish I did the last time. ;)
 

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You just add water if the electrolyte level is low, not more battery acid.
And at the least, get an AGM battery. Most motorcycle batteries are this type because if you dump the bike,you don't spill any acid out of the battery.
Also, for the umpteenth time, make sure you fully charge it before first use otherwise it will die an early death and you will be back at the store getting a new one.
I got a small AGM recommended on here (? eBay or Amazon) for ~$30 6-8 months ago and it works great. Do a search.
 

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When you see your battery acid level begin to drop, you may wonder when and if it is appropriate to add acid, or just water.
It is recommended that unless a battery was tipped over and all the acid spilled out, that you add only distilled water. Think of it like this: If you were to fill a pot up with salt water, and put it on your stove to boil, what happens? All the water will boil off, and you will be left with only salt. To re-create the original salt water mixture, you simply add straight water, because all the original salt is still in the pan, waiting to be re-suspended in the water. Batteries are the same way. All the chemical needed to make sulfuric acid is still in the battery, it is just the water that is gone. If you add more acid, you will be changing the chemical makeup of the battery which can lead to an incorrect sulfuric content.
 

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And keep her on a Battery Tender Jr. when she's not running.
You'll be amazed at how long the battery will last!
 

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And you can't overcharge her with Battery Tenders, regular or "Junior'.
No downside at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks all, appreciate the input. Should have mentioned, at my initial check when I brought 'er home, 3 cells were low, I added distilled water then. All cells are at good level today, so it seems a new battery is needed, just have to decide which one.
 

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Lead acid batteries have a number of plates with spaces in between them. When such a battery is severely discharged or over charged these plates will bend and flex. Once two plates contact each other that cell is shot and the battery is trashed. I have seen a lot of products that claim to be able to de-salinate a lead acid battery but never have seen one that really works. AGM or absorbent glass matt batteries have no vent to the outside elements and should last a lot longer and the Lithium Ion ones might be the best except they do not handle cold temperatures as well as other types.

With all batteries it is very important to charge them as prescribed by the manufacturer and by the type of battery it is. LI batteries require a completely specific charger while the lead acid and AGM ones should do fine with a standard charger as long as the voltage and charge amps are correct. Some batteries are designed to take a fast and hard charge while others want a slow trickle so you need to match the charger and the rate to the battery you have. Those here who are very familiar with electronics, NOT ME, might be able to decipher the charging circuits on our TWs and match the correct batteries for our bikes. 1987s are different from the 1988-2000 models and the 2001 to present are again a little different but I don't know if the regulator and charging outputs have changed all that much to make any difference. I did once have a truck that would eat batteries real fast and the issue was finally traced to a faulty alternator or voltage regulator that was cooking the batteries by over charging them while the engine was running. If your TW is destroying batteries quick then you might want to get the charging circuit checked on the bike or on your battery charger. A voltage regulator can fail in two ways, allow no voltage through or allow too much voltage through. I don't know if our TWs are set up to charge AGM or Lithium batteries but some of the guys here can probably tell us.

GaryL
 

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Bat Rays are best when they can't leak acid all over IMHO. I've had a pricey lithium batray now for three years. Never been on a tender or charged.
Can sit for weeks on end and will fire the bike right up-most of the time. Really cold days (for Calif) it may struggle but a quick thump on kickstarter and your back in action.
I would suggest spend your money on a kickstarter first. I have gone months with a half dead bat ray with use of the kickstart. There are some serious deals to be found on lithium
batrays on Amazon/Ebay I recently got one for $25! but that was right before they started hacking my brain up so have not tried it yet......Helps if you rig a headlight disconnect for starting, search here details abound. The process of charge transfer is what makes electrolyte so long as you used distilled water you'll make electrolyte while charging as well as Hydrogen gas and sulfates. No smoking around charging bat rays eh? They can blow up.
 

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I like the way my lithium battery spins starter motor a bit faster resulting in quick, reliable engine starting. Lithium batteries re-charge just fine in any automotive or motorcycle charging system. Same with any conventional battery charger ( just avoid charging levels greater than 10% of the batteries nominal max. output amperage; which in the case of TW batteries about 2 amps). What damages lithium batteries are the special fancy anti-sulfating chargers with reverse voltage pulsations. No special charger required, just avoid the special chargers sold for old fashioned wet cell electrolyte batteries.
 
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