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I use it in every shared sump bike I have. Never had an issue. And if you find a place that sells ANY oil chances are they will have Rotella.
 

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T4 and T6

Just wanting to know if anyone has had any problems running it in bikes with wet clutch
I used the Dino and Full Synthetic Rotella on two bikes this year, no issues and seemed to shift smoother and run quieter in both cases. I would use the synthetic in the TW, but I have had issues with weeping when switching to full synthetic in other, older motors with paper gaskets. My TW is still not weeping. So why tempt fate? If I ever rebuild it or buy a new TW I would switch to full synthetic after the first few oil changes.
 

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I used the Dino and Full Synthetic Rotella on two bikes this year, no issues and seemed to shift smoother and run quieter in both cases. I would use the synthetic in the TW, but I have had issues with weeping when switching to full synthetic in other, older motors with paper gaskets. My TW is still not weeping. So why tempt fate? If I ever rebuild it or buy a new TW I would switch to full synthetic after the first few oil changes.

I switched to synthetic oil after thousands of miles on my first TW. At some point later on, after a few oil changes I think, my base gasket started to leak. Reading on the forum I understand the synthetic "could" have cleaned out the debris blocking leakage with the dino oil.

I changed back to dino oil, but it didn't matter. In the end, I had to replace the base gasket. Was the synthetic oil the cause, or a bad base gasket, or something else? I'll never know, just my experience.

I always experience better shifting right after any oil change, dino or synthetic, but after a hundred miles put on I can't tell the difference between the two as far as shifting goes.
 

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Run T6 in all four strokes I own and / or service. But have found if you use the proper oil, change it regularly and keep it full you will have no problems. Oil related that is. For your TW do not use oil with "Energy Conserving" in the bottom of the API donut. Rotella is formulated to withstand the high heat of turbos so it does well in air cooled engines.
api-motor-oil-service-rating-donuts.jpg
 

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I just very recently changed to Shell Rotella-T dino to break in my Wiseco pistons. The clutches in both TW's now seem to barely hold at maximum power. I can't say the oil is causing the problem or if the problem has been there all along and I am just now noticing it with my break in procedure. All I know now is I am planning on shimming the springs for a little more grip. Hopefully that is all it takes.
 

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I switched to synthetic oil after thousands of miles on my first TW. At some point later on, after a few oil changes I think, my base gasket started to leak. Reading on the forum I understand the synthetic "could" have cleaned out the debris blocking leakage with the dino oil.

I changed back to dino oil, but it didn't matter. In the end, I had to replace the base gasket. Was the synthetic oil the cause, or a bad base gasket, or something else? I'll never know, just my experience.

I always experience better shifting right after any oil change, dino or synthetic, but after a hundred miles put on I can't tell the difference between the two as far as shifting goes.
I know that synthetic does flow more freely and will find leaks that might not have been present with dino oil. That said, you can't honestly blame a bad base gasket on the type of oil you use. Base gasket leaks have been an ongoing issue and Yamaha supposedly addressed this issue with a newer/better gasket. If I was a guessing man I would guess there is a misalignment issue with where the cases split which allows just enough unevenness to blow the gasket out.

On a brand new TW that is under the warranty it might even be a good/smart practice to switch to full synthetic at the first oil change just so any base gasket leak could be detected real early and replaced under the warranty.

GaryL
 

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I know that synthetic does flow more freely and will find leaks that might not have been present with dino oil. That said, you can't honestly blame a bad base gasket on the type of oil you use. Base gasket leaks have been an ongoing issue and Yamaha supposedly addressed this issue with a newer/better gasket. If I was a guessing man I would guess there is a misalignment issue with where the cases split which allows just enough unevenness to blow the gasket out.

On a brand new TW that is under the warranty it might even be a good/smart practice to switch to full synthetic at the first oil change just so any base gasket leak could be detected real early and replaced under the warranty.

GaryL
I don't want to blame synthetic oi as such, this is just something lizrdbrth mention of something that could occur with the use of synthetic. I would agree with you that just because this happened in my case doesn't mean the cause was the type of oil used. It is very possible it was the base gasket. As I recall, the gasket did flake or fall apart rather easily.

Unless some study was conducted on base gasket failure and a direct link to the type of oil used during failure, we can only assume it's a possibility or not. Just because it was my experience doesn't make it so, as you pointed out. Just something to watch for I guess.
 

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I don't want to blame synthetic oi as such, this is just something lizrdbrth mention of something that could occur with the use of synthetic. I would agree with you that just because this happened in my case doesn't mean the cause was the type of oil used. It is very possible it was the base gasket. As I recall, the gasket did flake or fall apart rather easily.

Unless some study was conducted on base gasket failure and a direct link to the type of oil used during failure, we can only assume it's a possibility or not. Just because it was my experience doesn't make it so, as you pointed out. Just something to watch for I guess.
I see it this way Admiral, we have seen a lot of base gasket blow outs from guys who never used synthetic oil plus a few gaskets that did start leaking when the switch to synthetic was made. This leads me to believe that a bad gasket is going to show up eventually no matter what oil you use. Here on the forum we have lots of opinions and all from different camps so to speak. Some say don't ever switch to full synthetic while others say wait for a couple thousand miles and still others like me go to full synthetic after just a couple hundred miles. It is all good and because we all pay our own bills then just do what ever floats your boat. Again though, if you have a new TW still under warranty then I would be in the camp of switching to full synthetic real early and while the bike is still under the warranty. Let the bad base gasket show it's ugly head early so Yamaha has to fix it! My 2006 TW just turned 150 miles and is almost 10 years old and got full synthetic. It is long out of any warranty but I still want to know if my base gasket is one of the bad ones so I can fix it now. My camp does not believe that these engines need thousands of miles with any sort of dino/brake in oil to seat rings and other internal parts. Others can do as they please and I do as I please in this regard. YMMV!

GaryL
 

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If I agree are we both going to be wrong!:p
 

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If I agree are we both going to be wrong!:p
Absolutely! But now you have to ask me if I care! My bike, I pay the bills and unless someone wants to sponsor my repairs then I honestly don't care what others think. We all entered this world as unquestionable winners, fastest swimmers for sure!

GAryL
 
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