[elime]

I am replacing the side cover Phillip head screws with stainless steel socket head cap screws.

Should I use washers? The original screws didn't have washers but the head was a little larger than the cap screw. Does it even matter?

I bought the screws at Mrmetric.com, a local company. The total price was $8.81 but add $6 S&H if you can't pick them up in person.

I copied this from Rainman -- it made ordering easy. I only ordered the side cover screws.

 

[Rainman]

I don't know. The kit I bought to replace the screws on my TW came with washers. They said they help hold the screw in place, but they are just regular flat washers.

 

[elime]

I don't know. The kit I bought to replace the screws on my TW came with washers. They said they help hold the screw in place, but they are just regular flat washers.

Did you use the washers? Whether yes or no, any problems?

 

[Rainman]

I did use the washers. The screws seem to tighten up better on the bike as they "slide" on the washer and not dig into the metal of the engine case.

 

[joeband]

hey tony,

this seems like a really good deal on the set. i've seen them on the bay for 3-4x as much. now what is the trick so they don't seize in the aluminum?



joe

 

[elime]

hey tony,

this seems like a really good deal on the set. i've seen them on the bay for 3-4x as much. now what is the trick so they don't seize in the aluminum?



joe

Is stainless steel seizing in aluminum a problem? I usually grease or oil bolts when putting them together any way so maybe that will help. The original screws are iron or steel so I figure if they don't seize stainless shouldn't either. I didn't know that was a problem.

 

[Rainman]

Siezing is a problem. Get some anti-sieze at the parts store before you put them on. I used anti-sieze and haven't had any problems. I also reapply the anti-sieze if I have to remove and reinstall the bolts. Its one extra step, but the benefits in the end are worth it.

 

[elime]

Siezing is a problem. Get some anti-sieze at the parts store before you put them on. I used anti-sieze and haven't had any problems. I also reapply the anti-sieze if I have to remove and reinstall the bolts. Its one extra step, but the benefits in the end are worth it.

Will do! Thanks to you and Joeband for the heads up.



Afterthought: Would steel alloy grade 12.9 or steel 8.8 zinc be better? I could return / toss the bolts I bought and buy another set. For example, the 25mm grade 12.9 are $.14 each, the 8.8 zinc are $.18 each. The 35mm are $.18 and $.22 each.

 

[elime]

I decided I didn't like the Allen wrench socket head bolts fearing the inside may get rounded out making the bolts difficult to remove. I have now gone with a standard hex head bolt (equal to a grade 5) that uses a 10mm socket. The set came to a whopping $4.41 at my favorite metric bolt store, Mrmetric.com, using the will call option and avoiding the $6 S&H fee. The 6mm washer, 11mm O.D., were only a penny apiece, so I bought an extra one.

 

[Rainman]

Looks good! Will a 10 mm socket fit in the recessed bolt holes in the left side engine cover?

 

[joeband]

hey tony,

are those galvanized? any probs getting them to fit?



joe

 

[elime]

Looks good! Will a 10 mm socket fit in the recessed bolt holes in the left side engine cover?

I bought a deep 1/4" drive socket and rounded the corners and polished with a Dremel. I am not sure if rounding the corner is necessary but it was raining and I was bored. I now think a standard socket with an extension would have been a better choice but since I altered the deep one I am stuck with it.

hey tony,

are those galvanized? any probs getting them to fit?



joe

Yes, galvanized and fit fine.

 

[Rainman]

[quote name='Tony' date='01 December 2012 - 08:31 AM' timestamp='1354379498' post='62228']

I bought a deep 1/4" drive socket and rounded the corners and polished with a Dremel. I am not sure if rounding the corner is necessary but it is raining and I was bored.

Very clever. I like your way of thinking.