[rastaman]

I have just gotten a 95 TW, that was sitting for a while,,at least 5 months, after a quick carb cleaning she fired right up. The PO tried to start it I guess using starting fluid, as the carb was full of some kinda greenish stuff. I also noticed that the engine was over filled with oil.(maybe sticking float)

I changed the oil and the bike is running decent, However the clutch is slipping in the higher gears when you get on it.

Before tearing into the clutch, which I know nothing about, I was wondering if the slipping could of been caused by contaminated or wrong oil. And if there is anything I could try if this was the case, The bike only has 1600 miles on it. I cant imagine a clutch wearing in that mileage.



2nd ?..If I have to replace the clutch, what is recommended, plates, springs, discs, springs every thing??? or just discs? I have read all the clutch threads and just not clear...



Is there a clutch replacement step by step thread...I couldnt find one (other than the Service Manual)

And will I require any special tools.... other than a low end torque wrench?

 

[Rainman]

Wrong oil can harm your friction plates. My clutch was the first major repair I did on my bike and I had no clue either. You need to get the manual and read the clutch section several times before you begin. There will be some steps that you won't figure out until you have your clutch torn apart and then you'll say to yourself, "So thats what the manual referred to....I get it now."



You'll need a tool to hold the clutch basket from turning, ONLY if you replace the clutch basket. I used a screw driver but I risked breaking the basket. Most auto part stores sell them. If you are just going to replace the plates, then all you need are some sockets..



Some people say to replace the whole clutch as in springs, bolts, basket, plates, etc, and I would tend to agree if the clutch was smoked or worn out. But with just using the wrong oil and low mileage, I would replace the friction and steel plates only. Your clutch basket should be in good shape with your mileage. Take a look inside the clutch. Remove the plates and look at your basket. Look at your springs.



Take pictures while you go. Take your time. It is doable and you'll learn a lot about how your clutch works by doing it yourself. Don't be afraid to do it....it may look like a tough task while reading the manual, but if you follow the steps, you will be just fine.

 

[RodneyReed]

First of all, make sure the clutch is adjusted properly and that you have some free play at the lever.



If that's not it, get a gallon of Rotella T 15w40. Change the oil, ride the bike until it gets to operating temperature, then repeat for a total of 4 oil changes. If the clutch stops slipping after that, change the oil one more time and put in a suitable motorcycle specific oil like Mobil1 Racing 4T 10w40, and ride on.



If that doesn't fix it, refer back to Rainman's advice and change out the clutch.

 

[Rainman]

First of all, make sure the clutch is adjusted properly and that you have some free play at the lever.



If that's not it, get a gallon of Rotella T 15w40. Change the oil, ride the bike until it gets to operating temperature, then repeat for a total of 4 oil changes. If the clutch stops slipping after that, change the oil one more time and put in a suitable motorcycle specific oil like Mobil1 Racing 4T 10w40, and ride on.



If that doesn't fix it, refer back to Rainman's advice and change out the clutch.

Thats good advice. I'd try that first, it'll save you the time and hassle of a clutch replacement.

 

[Stromper]

I agree with get some heat and use and adjustment

 

[Hoogie514]

Just as a quick indication of the wear on your clutch you can disconnect the cable at the L/H engine housing and rotate the clutch actuating lever forward until it stops with your fingers, if it lines up fairly well with the adjustment line on the housing you should be good for clutch plate wear provided that it was set up properly in the first place! Here is a pic, I just set mine up last week after a clutch replacement, all I replaced was the friction plates due to eveything else bieng well within spec.

 

[rastaman]

Thanks guys....I will try all of the above starting with the indicator then oil change and hopfully I wont have to mess with the clutch. Not looking forward to that repair, although it is just the fear of the unknown.

 

[qwerty]

First, make sure adjustment is perfect.



Our rapidly changing world has left Rodney behind. Rotella is for 3500rpm diesel engines. Why would you put that crap in a 9,500rpm motorcycle? Some Rotellas used to be okay for some motorcycles until the environmantal Nazis forced the removal of ZDDP from the blend. None of today's Rotellas are suitable for motorcycles due to the lack of extreme pressure protection additives. Zip. Zero. Nada.



Rodney's clutch flushing procedure is close to spot on, other than the recommendation of an unsuitable oil and too rapid change intervals. Run the bike 100 miles or so between changes, and park it with a bungie holding the lever to the grip so oil can penetrate between the plates. See if you can find a dino-based oil for 4-stroke motorcycles with wet clutches. Cost is little, if any, more than Rotella. Most auto parts stores carry such oils. $25 for the right oil is cheaper than $350 for a head and camshaft.

 

[rm_hm]

I think I may need some clutch work. It only takes 1/4" of pull to engage the clutch. It used to take triple that to engage the clutch. I can't loosen the cable it any more then it is. I never drag the clutch and I'm just under 6k

Edit : I think I will yank the right side case cover off and adjust the clutch lever by messing with the internal adjusted as per page 3-16 of the manual. The adjuster and lock nut is in the center of the clutch (Photo poached from another clutch thread)

Edit: Got the case off and wrecked the gasket of course. Clutch discs were 3.08 mm Spec call for 2.9 to 3.1mm

Got all of the gasket off, drew on all of the sealing surfaces with a sharpee and gently wet sanded it on a big chunk of glass with 1200 grit sand paper till all of the black was gone.

Dug around my shop I found two chain side engine gaskets but none for the clutch side..

Chipped out my magnet epoxied in the oil drain cover. The heat killed my non heat resistant magnet. LINK for where to buy high temp magnets & LINK to the TW200 magnet thread

I'm wondering about the add a washer to the clutch spring mod and if I should keep using the stock friction discs?


And for those of you that need to adjust your clutch rod free play...