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I bought my tw about a 6 weeks ago now. It's a 2007 and had 533 miles on it. I had never stepped foot onto a motorcycle before.



It was running terribly when I got it. I came on here and started researching what to do which has been amazing. I put in a new spark plug, new oil, new oil filter, new fuel w/ seafoam since it sat (2007 with 533 miles). Cleaned the jets out and the entire carb and got it working decent. Have had to replace a few small parts, gaskets and am getting much more aquatinted with the bike.



Some questions...



1) My rear turn signal relay somehow came undone and was sitting against my exhaust for a time while I was riding. I looked down and noticed it partly melted, but not sure the damage. I secured it and sealed it back up. My question - Are the rear lights supposed to be on all the time like the fronts are in 2007? The blinkers work fine, but I noticed the rear lights do not continually run. I read on a post from a few days ago (1996 bike) that the rears do not stay on, but only come on when the turn signal buttons are hit. I was wondering if that was the same for a 2007. I'd assume so.



2) My left passenger (rear) peg lower/bottom bolt and special washer are missing. What is the point of that special washer? It's $18. The top one does not have it. Is it necessary?



3) My left mirror moves too far forward, like the piece it screws into is stripped out. I currently have a washer in the mix to bring it to the correct position. Any better ideas?



4) My carb is leaking out the bottom of the bowl drain. Tonight I pulled the float and the gasket is toast. The dealer only sells the whole needle valve assembly. Any idea on where to just get the gasket?



5) It's very hard to start in the winter. 15-30 degrees F. I have to pull the choke all the way out for about 45 seconds, then drop it to the middle position for about 20 seconds then can let it back in and ride away. Is this normal? I have been going through the carb completely. The only thing I noticed tonight which I am unsure would affect this issue is that my pilot jet screw was only out about 1 turn. I've read it should be out 2.5 turns. Also, would you recommend taking the pilot jet screw completely out and cleaning it for any reason?



I think that is about it for now. Thanks for any input!
 

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1) Your assumptions about the rear signals are correct.



2) The special washer is just a flat piece of metal that holds down the wire coming out of the kick stand switch. You don't need one.



3) Either JB weld it or get a new holder. I've done both. The JB weld didn't hold up, so I ordered a brand new mirror/lever holder.



4) I don't know. It looks like a regular o-ring? I've got the older style carb so I'm not familiar with the new style.



5) That sounds fine to me. You can try and mess with the screw. If yours starts in that weather, I wouldn't mess with it too much.
 

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1. yup the front blinkers are 3-wire and include running lights...the rear blinkers are 2 wire and don't have running lights



2. take the washer off your other peg and swing by the hardware store to find one if you want another



3. i had the same problem with my lever perch being stripped and instead of getting a new lever perch i just got new ebay mirrors that i clamped to the handlebars which i like much better than the stockers due to their location being a little more crash resistant as well as not having to move my arms to see traffic behind me (see photos in my signature thread below)



4. looks like they only sell that o-ring with the needle valve assembly...i would pull it out and take it to a hardware store and see if you can get a o-ring kit or match it to one...probably be cheaper

http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/4/Make/Yamaha/YearID/48/Year/2007/ModelID/2006/Model/TW200W1_TW200/GroupID/334489/Group/CARBURETOR_



5. i agree with Rainman if it starts i wouldn't mess with the pilot screw...if it struggles a bit you can mess with your idle screw a bit to make it idle a little higher in cold weather then you may just be able to go from full choke to no choke...starting mine in the colder weather i usually have it full choke for a while then just push it all the way in but i have the older style carb as well

http://tw200forum.com/index.php?/topic/937-tk-carb-photos-and-parts-identification/
 

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Discussion Starter #4
1. yup the front blinkers are 3-wire and include running lights...the rear blinkers are 2 wire and don't have running lights



2. take the washer off your other peg and swing by the hardware store to find one if you want another



3. i had the same problem with my lever perch being stripped and instead of getting a new lever perch i just got new ebay mirrors that i clamped to the handlebars which i like much better than the stockers due to their location being a little more crash resistant as well as not having to move my arms to see traffic behind me (see photos in my signature thread below)



4. looks like they only sell that o-ring with the needle valve assembly...i would pull it out and take it to a hardware store and see if you can get a o-ring kit or match it to one...probably be cheaper

http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/4/Make/Yamaha/YearID/48/Year/2007/ModelID/2006/Model/TW200W1_TW200/GroupID/334489/Group/CARBURETOR_



5. i agree with Rainman if it starts i wouldn't mess with the pilot screw...if it struggles a bit you can mess with your idle screw a bit to make it idle a little higher in cold weather then you may just be able to go from full choke to no choke...starting mine in the colder weather i usually have it full choke for a while then just push it all the way in but i have the older style carb as well

http://tw200forum.com/index.php?/topic/937-tk-carb-photos-and-parts-identification/


Thanks guys, great info.



I don't think my right side had that special washer, so I didnt really know what to look for. I was thinking about using a normal washer if it needed a spacer. I'm not sure I noticed the wire from the kickstand. What does it do?



I meant o-ring on #4 like you said, not gasket. It was completely crusty and stuck, so I had to tear it apart to get it off. Ill get the whole assembly.
 

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The wire coming from the kick stand is a safety feature. If the bike is in gear and the kick stand is down it won't start. If the bike is running and in gear and the kick stand is put down it will kill the bike. Some guys remove theirs and take a piece of wire to complete the connection.



Your right side won't have the washer. I don't think you'll need a spacer.



If you bought your bike used, the previous owner may have taken the kick stand safety switch off.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The wire coming from the kick stand is a safety feature. If the bike is in gear and the kick stand is down it won't start. If the bike is running and in gear and the kick stand is put down it will kill the bike. Some guys remove theirs and take a piece of wire to complete the connection.



Your right side won't have the washer. I don't think you'll need a spacer.



If you bought your bike used, the previous owner may have taken the kick stand safety switch off.


Interesting. I'm not sure I've noticed it. Ill have to try it when I get it back together.
 

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Just an update... A new needle assembly took care of the leak perfectly! Bike is running excellently thanks to the posts on this forum.



I think the hard starting is related more to a battery I have that is bad. It's only a couple months old now, so I'll see if they will take it back. If I put it on a Tender for 24 hours it works for 1-2 days before having ZERO juice on it. I'm also wondering if my charging system is not working, but I'll get the new battery replaced and see if that works.



Thanks for all the input.
 

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those are really small batteries and you are trying to start it in pretty cold temps. granted it it a small engine but keep the Battery tender on when not using. And check the water level!!!!...it doesnt hold much. Some of the original poor running is prob related to a 5 year old bike with only 500 miles. it sat too much with old gas.
 

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I bought my tw about a 6 weeks ago now. It's a 2007 and had 533 miles on it. I had never stepped foot onto a motorcycle before.



It was running terribly when I got it. I came on here and started researching what to do which has been amazing. I put in a new spark plug, new oil, new oil filter, new fuel w/ seafoam since it sat (2007 with 533 miles). Cleaned the jets out and the entire carb and got it working decent. Have had to replace a few small parts, gaskets and am getting much more aquatinted with the bike.



Some questions...



1) My rear turn signal relay somehow came undone and was sitting against my exhaust for a time while I was riding. I looked down and noticed it partly melted, but not sure the damage. I secured it and sealed it back up. My question - Are the rear lights supposed to be on all the time like the fronts are in 2007? The blinkers work fine, but I noticed the rear lights do not continually run. I read on a post from a few days ago (1996 bike) that the rears do not stay on, but only come on when the turn signal buttons are hit. I was wondering if that was the same for a 2007. I'd assume so.



2) My left passenger (rear) peg lower/bottom bolt and special washer are missing. What is the point of that special washer? It's $18. The top one does not have it. Is it necessary?



3) My left mirror moves too far forward, like the piece it screws into is stripped out. I currently have a washer in the mix to bring it to the correct position. Any better ideas?





Ooops.... forgot toa ask prior to advising on a rejet.....whats your elevation?.



Ooops....forgot to ask prior to advising on a rejet.....whats your elevation?.



4) My carb is leaking out the bottom of the bowl drain. Tonight I pulled the float and the gasket is toast. The dealer only sells the whole needle valve assembly. Any idea on where to just get the gasket?



5) It's very hard to start in the winter. 15-30 degrees F. I have to pull the choke all the way out for about 45 seconds, then drop it to the middle position for about 20 seconds then can let it back in and ride away. Is this normal? I have been going through the carb completely. The only thing I noticed tonight which I am unsure would affect this issue is that my pilot jet screw was only out about 1 turn. I've read it should be out 2.5 turns. Also, would you recommend taking the pilot jet screw completely out and cleaning it for any reason?



I think that is about it for now. Thanks for any input!




#4.------You can order just the gasket...your Dealer can order this...OR.... you can order it through various on-line motorcycle suppliers.



#5. Rejet......I would advise to replace the main jet to a larger size...#128 or #130?. Pilot screw...yes approx. 2.5 turns.......whats your elevation?.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
#4.------You can order just the gasket...your Dealer can order this...OR.... you can order it through various on-line motorcycle suppliers.



#5. Rejet......I would advise to replace the main jet to a larger size...#128 or #130?. Pilot screw...yes approx. 2.5 turns.......whats your elevation?.


Dealer would only sell me the whole valve assembly so I got the whole thing. Wasn't terrible, but lame since I only needed a much cheaper part.



It's been running very nicely since working through my carb and replacing the bad parts. I bumped the pilot jet to 2.5 turns a few weeks back and it's been running great, it was less than one turn by factory, is that the normal? I sit at about 1500 feet at my house and would ride to about 4000 feet on the property I live on.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
those are really small batteries and you are trying to start it in pretty cold temps. granted it it a small engine but keep the Battery tender on when not using. And check the water level!!!!...it doesnt hold much. Some of the original poor running is prob related to a 5 year old bike with only 500 miles. it sat too much with old gas.


I tried to do a multi quote but it wouldn't work. Anyway. My less than 2 month old battery failed a load test, dropping to less than 8V so I took it back and the dealer gave me a new one. About a week ago, while cleaning my bike I noticed my rectifier/charger slightly unplugged so it wasn't getting charged. The clip that holds it is pretty weak so I may need to tape it or something. It was a good find. Since getting the battery up and running with the rectifier plugged back in its been amazing. New battery showed up tonight so ill get it charging and hopefully use it in the morning if its charged.



Yeah, it did sit, which is fine by me. I don't mind a little work to get a nice bike back running. Runs so smooth now! :)
 

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Not a cheap option for a headlight but better than stock, great white light and only draws 10w...

GTR Lighting 4x6" Rectangular LED High/Low Beam Headlight

Email them and they will send one for $120, split the the stock lens from the headlamp metal mounting case really carefully (it`s glued with double sided tape) and mount the LED lens with Stainless wire from the heat sink mounting screws to the original metal headlight case, seal the small gap around the case and light with Gorrilla tape and marvel at the great bright 10w light.
Leaves wattage to charge battery.
 
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