TW200 Forum banner

1 - 20 of 28 Posts

Registered
Joined
175 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
This is my first time pulling the spark plug on my 2103 TW, (3100 miles) and haven't done any spark plugs before on any vehicle (never needed too).

Looking at my spark plug can I get some feedback as to how it looks?

OK? Too Lean? Too rich? If too lean or rich, should I make any adjustments? And what adjustments should I make?

I am currently running a Jet Kit and have it set up as ProCycle's starting point setup of a #122.5 Main Jet, #34 Pilot Jet, and 1 shim.

image.jpg image.jpg

Thanks for the advice, Dan
 

Super Moderator
Joined
17,641 Posts
You probably don't need to go a mile, perhaps a half a mile. Take it briskly through the gears, ending up in 5th and WOT for a good little bit, then kill it, yank the clutch in, pull the plug, put in a spare, head home and look at it closely and go from there.
 

Super Moderator
Joined
17,641 Posts
You want to get a good light and look down on the side of the insulator. You want to see a chocolate brownish ring down there. (A correct plug chop would entail cutting some of the threads off so you could really see, that's why they call it a plug chop, but try a good light first. The color might be instantly recognizable.) If it is that color (chocolate brown) or a tiny bit darker, the main jet is right. If it is lighter colored than that or whitish, it's too lean and you need a richer main.

You can check the shimming on the needle (flat spot mid throttle) the same way if you do your plug chop exactly halfway between off throttle and WOT. If it's light colored, you need one more shim or more. If it is chocolate colored or a tiny bit more, it's probably correctly adjusted.

Better on the slightly rich side, than lean.

Hope that helps, keep us posted.

Carb adjustments should be the last thing you do as far as adjusting and tuning on the engine. So, in other words, the valves would have been adjusted, the air filter serviced, new gas filter, stuff like that.
 

Super Moderator
Joined
4,728 Posts
I did look it up on google images to begin with - this is the shortened version

plugs.JPG

The long version is here http://www.motorcycleinfo.co.uk/resources/6795/assets/images/FAQs/electrics/check_spark_plug_condition.jpg

But as Littletommy says - after a while you'll do your head in trying to diagnose a plug too far - if it works fine, leave it alone. I spent ten years on two-strokes, as much time pulling plugs as anything else - don't get me started on dialing in heat values for triples ..........

I applaud your curiosity - but your plug looks fine ..............
 

Registered
Joined
8,239 Posts
The ceramic which is the white part surrounding the electrode should have a light toast color as shown in the above Carbureted photo. Too white is too lean and too dark is too rich. I would try to richen your bike just a tad as LT said and leave it alone.

GaryL
 

Registered
Joined
1,983 Posts
I agree. To me, looks a little lean for me. Your looking for a light tan color which is ideal. Also, have a look at your exhaust tip on muffler. Take a pic of that too. Just inside that little 3/4" (or whatever it is) pipe that sticks out. You can give a wipe with your finger to see if anything comes off on your finger. Nothing also means your running lean, to much black means your to rich. I had 2,300 mls on my bike before I jeted it, and the inside of muffler tip was clean as the day it was bought. To lean. And that's why it's lean from the factory, to cut down on smog. Like Tommy was saying, run and kill your engine at all 3 throttle positions to read all 3 setting/jets. It only takes 10 to 15 or so seconds to run at each level to change that plug reading.
 

Super Moderator
Joined
17,641 Posts
Does the type of fuel I am using have any effect on these results? I have been using Non-Ethanol for the last 2500 miles.

Also, after reading about using a flashlight I looked at it with a bright flashlight. The tip is mostly white with a very small partial band a tannish tint on the open end of the tip, probably overlit by the flash of my phone in the picture.

With those additional facts is the concensus still to richen up a little? And should I still do the chop to see what stage to richen? Or?

Also, I do not normally need to use the choke to start, (after the rejet and screw adjustment 2 1/2 turns) but do for a few seconds occassionally.
Because of the way you described the quick starting and warm up time, I am reasonably sure your air/fuel mixture screw on the pilot is near correct. Good for you using non-ethanol. TW's love it and were designed for it originally I believe. You save yourself a lot of trouble down the road using it. They run better and faster with it I believe, better gas mileage too. With your additional facts, yes I believe you should still run the plug chops. Look farther down the insulator, not just at the top tip of it.


Left to right - too rich, still a little too rich, about perfect, a little lean, way too lean

Note: all the threads have been cut away for perfect viewing.

Do another plug chop. I think you need to be richer. Keep us posted please.
 

Registered
Joined
1,510 Posts
Back to your fuel use, use regular, not mid or premium. Higher octane ratings will not burn as efficiently unless used in higher compression engines. This can add to carbon buildup.
 

Super Moderator
Joined
17,641 Posts
Correct. Only use gas with a higher octane level if it rattles/sounds like it is going to blow up under a load. 87 to 89, anymore than that probably isn't good. I have tried 91 and my bike was more sluggish and didn't run as well.
 

Super Moderator
Joined
17,641 Posts
View attachment 18454

This is my current tailpipe swipe, before any adjustments.

Dan
Doesn't look too lean, nor too rich, but I still think at this point (before more plug chops to see for sure) it needs to be richer a little. Might have been better wiping it with your finger. Way to rich can kind of feel wet..
 

Registered
Joined
1,163 Posts
It'll run fine on regular, 10% ethanol. Run that a while, then if you want, recheck your plug. You are wasting money on anything higher than regular gas, and possibly sacrificing a little performance and gas mileage.
 

Super Moderator
Joined
17,641 Posts
I am using 91 Non Ethanol, are you suggesting to just run regular 87 ish with ethanol instead? I want to run what is best for longevity and maintenance.

So, with that in mind should I change fuel before checking the lean/rich or should I adjust it for the type of fuel I am running? I was under the thought that non-ethanol was better, but I ride enough that excess fuel will never be sitting in the carb for anymore than a few days and that is only if I forget to run it dry after a ride.
Given this new info, I would go with #26 mrlmd post and use the 10% ethanol and do your plug chops and checking after running the new gas. You want to adjust it accordingly to the gas you are using. It will just be more problematic if you leave the gas to rot in the tank and carb or don't winterize it before storing.

*never thought I'd be recommending ethanol gas, but in your case, now it's the best solution.
 

Super Moderator
Joined
17,641 Posts
Normally I would put in 2-3 oz per the stock tank 1.7 gal, so adjust accordingly. You don't need it all the time or maybe not at all if you are running enough fresh gas through it. I do put in a little every few tanks though. If you ever have bad problems with a carb, I use the Lucus Deep Clean Fuel System Cleaner. That stuff can be amazing. I only use Sea Foam for maintenance once in a while.
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top