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Discussion Starter #1
So as I'm trying to resurrect my basketcase, I got around to trying to checking ignition last night. Bike is missing ignition switch - no biggie.. just jumper past that.. ok. Hit the starter - turns over but no joy. Pull plug and hit starter to check spark. all I get is one, occasionally two visible sparks ... Right after I hit starter... But then nothing.. battery is new and fully charged... Any ideas?
 

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So as I'm trying to resurrect my basketcase, I got around to trying to checking ignition last night. Bike is missing ignition switch - no biggie.. just jumper past that.. ok. Hit the starter - turns over but no joy. Pull plug and hit starter to check spark. all I get is one, occasionally two visible sparks ... Right after I hit starter... But then nothing.. battery is new and fully charged... Any ideas?


Try it with the kick starter and see if there is any difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Try it with the kick starter and see if there is any difference.


don't have one... mine's an '02.



I had plenty of juice to turn it over - tried it w/ a booster pack attached, also... what is puzzling me is that it only sparks once or twice, right as I hit the stater... nothing more. I ohmed out the pickup coil around 830ish so that seemed ok..
 

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Yeah pickup coil is fine, thats about where mine is.



Tested the ignition coil? (key off ohm test as well)



How bout the source coil? Yellow and brown on my '94.



CDI is best and only tested with a "loaner" or new cdi. At least with such a simple electrical system there arent many things to test.



Ignition switch

Starter button

Neutral Switch/ safety switches

2 relays in the electrical box

1 fuse

Spark plug

Ignition coil

Pickup Coil

Source Coil

CDI



Last 2 cost as much as the bike
, seriously


The manual lists all the wonderful and tediously boring test procedures, beware though it may get wire colors wrong. The updated wiring diagram is found only in the supplement.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
well, tested the CDI last night on a friend's bike, and that's good (whew).. The source and pickup coils ohm out w/in specs. I didn't get any reading on the primary on the ignition coil (but my DVM only goes to 20ohm, so maybe it isn't precise enough?) but the secondary tests correct.
 

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I had the same problem a year or so ago. My pulse coil fried so I replaced the whole stator winding, but even after that...I would still get the same as you describe: spark when I first hit the button, and then again when I released it...but (apparently) nothing while I cranked.

You can check it with a timing light or other means of spark detector, but I'm sure you will find that you are indeed getting a spark. I could suggest that you HOLD the wire to prove this, but that's just mean!

Try viewing in a darkened room...My guess is that you will see that the spark is there, especially if all the coil readings are correct and your CDI is functional.



Another thing to do is to take advantage of the "visible" spark, when you first crank it. I just "blip" my starter...touch it very briefly (a half-second or so) so that the engine turns over maybe once or twice, and 9 times out of ten she fires right up. Also, try topping up your battery with a low-current (1 amp or less) charger for at least 12 hours (overnight). Oh, and Iridium plugs rule!
 

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well, tested the CDI last night on a friend's bike, and that's good (whew).. The source and pickup coils ohm out w/in specs. I didn't get any reading on the primary on the ignition coil (but my DVM only goes to 20ohm, so maybe it isn't precise enough?) but the secondary tests correct.


That should put your problem forward of the charging system, and cdi. So relays, ignition coil, plug wire/cap, plug itself.



Primary should be between 1.3 and 1.9 ohms, but if you dont have a sensitive enough ohm meter you dont have it.



Double check the spark plug cap and make sure it has a good connection with the wire from the ig coil.



I would do as BC suggested and do a lights off test just to see, also you can give the spark plug a little bend so there is less distance for the spark to jump. Just to see if its sparking. I'd throw on that new one; they're $5.



Coils, relays, plugs.... All cheap.



Come to think of it if you have a tw buddy throw his coil on and see if that does the trick.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
will try a new coil/wire/cap next I guess then... I don't want to hassle w/ testing my coil on friend's bike just because of the hassle of getting to the coil. I did bend the electrode down a bit, w/ same results... also tossed it on the riding mower's lead, and it sparked away..



ok, just to get this straight, the pulse coil is the separate coild assem. that provides signal to the CDI for the spark, correct? stator I get - output to power all the lights and such.. source coil is to power the CDI, then?
 

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To remove the coil all you have to take off is the seat and tank. You can have it off your bike, your friends bike, tested, and back on in under an hour. I could do it in 30 as many times as I've don it. I would CERTAINLY test with your/his relays. Take off the right side cover, unclip the relay, and clip it on the other bike. 30 seconds. One relay is white, one is black. The two relays are the same size. One controls power to the starting system, and the other to the ignition system.



Pickup coil is separate assy. It is inside the engine case and bolted next to the stator. I believe it sends the timing information. The stator on this bike isn't simply a stator though. It has the source coil made into the assy. Operose can tell you exactly what part of the coils power what, but what I do know is a bad source coil = no spark.



Yours tested good though right? It sounds like ignition coil or relays to me. Are you testing in neutral with the clutch held in just in case of safety switch malfunction?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I know it's easy enough to get to the coil, but i hate tearing apart their bike anymore than I have to. The CDI was just a sidecover, so that was a few second exchange. Haven't thought to try the relays. thought they were ok because I was aleast getting some sparks. yes.. testing in neutral. testing w/ fully charged new battery (and a charger hooked up at same time - my charger has a 'start' function to it, so I switch it to that to make sure I'm getting plenty of current)..
 

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New ignition coil on the net is $39. Have you double checked your wiring? I had a brown wire going to yellow and vise versa, cost me over $200 for a brand new stator assy, and a month tracking down a used cdi.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
ok.. still no joy w/ a new ignition coil. This is getting very frustrating. Same symptoms - a spark or two and then nothing... I even was brave enough to grab the plug while turning the starter. Like I've mentioned, the CDI works on friend's bike, so I know it's not that. Not sure where to go at this point.
 

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Source Coil

CDI



Last 2 cost as much as the bike
, seriously


Right you are on that point! I got rid of my Kawasaki 650 - great little road bike - because the CDI went out and a new one was WAY more than the old bike was worth.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
well, like I've mentioned, the CDI tested goo don my friend's bike. I don't really want to go through the hassle of swapping the coils (stator/source/pulse) in the side cover over for testing... especially since they all ohm out w/in spec. Were are the electronic guru's? LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Progress! It appears the diode attached to the CDI went on me. I'm guessing it's some sort of blocking diode, in lieu of the ballast resistors they used to use back in the day.. I by-passed it for testing purposes (tied it to ground) and I have a reliable spark again.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
it would be item 12 on the wiring diagram... I just tied the blue/yellow to ground to test this, and volia! It still might be a grounding issue, but at least I know culprit now (ran out of time last night to dig any further).. like I mentioned, I'm guessing it's some sort of blocking diode, but someone w/ better knowledge might have a definative answer on that.



 
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