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Can someone provide a general rule of shift points.. I know its about 10MPH for 2nd.. Should I just go with that the manual says?

Also do you only shift down when you hit 12MPH? Thats what the manual is saying....

Last thing is winter is on its way.. If I'm not running the bike for more the 10 dayd longer should I use a battery tender or just disconnect it?

Thanks everyone!!
 

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Generally...about 10 mph per shift, but don't drive yourself crazy with that kind of stuff. Forget such precision as 12 mph for downshift to 1st. You'll learn quickly to do it all by "feel". Properly break in your new engine by nice easy runs, shifting through the gears, not staying in one gear at one speed for excessive periods, and not over-revving for a while. Once the motor is broken in, you can shift like most of us do....full throttle until you don't feel it pull anymore, then shift. :D

Change the oil at least as often as the manual states. I recommend cleaning the oil filter every 100 miles or so until break in is complete. These old school air cooled little motors produce a scary amount of shavings. If you're not warned about it, it can freak you out.

Winter time... 10 days shouldn't be a big deal. I would top off the tank after every ride, with non-ethanol if possible, to keep airspace to a minimum where condensation can build up and contaminate your fuel with water. I'd likewise turn the petcock off and let the bike run out any fuel from the carb bowl for the same reason. Storing inside is best, cover it at least. A battery tender is a personal choice, but I certainly wouldn't disconnect it every time I went for a ride. The whole winter, sure, disconnect it and bring it in the house.

How are you liking it so far?
 

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Can someone provide a general rule of shift points.. ?
This site is handy for figuring out stuff like that: Gearing Commander: Motorcycle Speed and Drive Train Calculator (Online and Stand alone)

Plug in the standard gearing for the TW and play around with the minimum RPM to see different RPM's at different speeds. Keep in mind where the max torque and max HP occur on this graph:
TW Torque HP Curves.jpg
As you can see, the torque curve is pretty flat from 4,000 to 8,000, so if you shift so as to keep the next gear coming in at 4 to 5,000 you will get pretty good acceleration. Since the engine has good low end power you can shift up anywhere except when climbing a hill, as long as you don't lug it by trying to accelerate hard. I'll get all the way into 5th by 35 mph if I'm just putting along on the level. If I'm merging on a highway I'll take third and fourth to 8,500....after break-in, of course. There really isn't much point in going beyond 8,500 as the power drops off quickly. Unless you know from Gearing Commander that it's perfectly safe to go to X speed at 9,000 you won't because the engine sounds like it's coming apart! :eek: :p

The only gear I'm careful about downshifting to at too high an RPM is first because you can lock up the rear upon releasing the clutch. :eek: I use all the gears downshifting with a throttle blip, sometimes at a higher RPM, sometimes at lower, depending on how fast I'm trying to slow down.
 

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One thing you might be careful of is when coming to a stop. Pulling in the clutch while coasting and shifting down into lower gears while still at speed. It is possible to overspeed the clutch and blow it apart from centrifugal force.
 

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As the acceleration falls off, up shift until 5th gear. After that, do not upshift any more no matter how much the acceleration falls off.
But you have to upshift one more time just to make sure it didn't grow a sixth gear when you weren't paying attention. The other day I thought my Honda grew a seventh gear when I wasn't looking, but it just turns out that I'm not so good at counting apparently.
 

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When I first got the TW I spent awhile trying to adjust the clutch because it felt so finnicky compared to other bikes I've ridden.

It never really got much better through my adjustments, but I now understand what the tranny likes and doesn't like and it doesn't get grumpy at me anymore. If I'm coming up to a red light quickly, I pull the clutch in and drop gears according to my speed. Over time I could feel which speeds were right. I don't drop into first until I'm at a near stop. A little throttle blip helps too. If I drop into first at too high a speed, it'll clunk hard, and I'll have trouble popping into neutral after stopping (rolling back and forth helps).

My last bike didn't seem to care what gear I was in relative to my speed so long as the clutch was pulled in (independent of rev matching when releasing clutch, which is applicable to downshifting all bikes). I assumed the TW clutch was dragging when I got it, but na, I think it's just special.

I am curious as to why this is though.
 

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Also, about the battery:

I use a tender (with battery pigtails) and drain the carbs any time I go out of town for more than a week. I missed more than a few morning meetings in the days when this wasn't my routine. I don't have the luxury of ethanol free gas, but if you have it as an option, I'd recommend it.
 

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I wouldn't spend too much time looking at the speedometer for shifting, as that will be the time some moron turns in front of you. just don't lug the motor and you should be good. as far as the battery goes, take it out or leave it in, it still needs to be charged periodically if it's a wet cell
 

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Zoom---- 1st------Zoooooom------2nd-------Zoooooooom-----3rd-------Zoooooooooooom------4th----Zooooooooooooooooooom-----5th-----zoo---zoo----there is no 6th gear so stop trying!! Dirts a Flyen SanDue:p:D
Not to mention all that happens in about 15 seconds. If I looked down at the speedo that often Id spend more time looking at the speedo than the road while getting to top gear.
 

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Not to mention all that happens in about 15 seconds. If I looked down at the speedo that often Id spend more time looking at the speedo than the road while getting to top gear.
Zoom is a sound not a visual, so you can keep your eyes on the road all the time. The only time I look at the speedometer is when Sue passes me and I check how fast I'm not going! Dirts a Flyen SanDue:p:D
 

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Zoom---- 1st------Zoooooom------2nd-------Zoooooooom-----3rd-------Zoooooooooooom------4th----Zooooooooooooooooooom-----5th-----zoo---zoo----there is no 6th gear so stop trying!! Dirts a Flyen SanDue:p:D


Best explanation yet. Awesome!

Why isn't the base part of "explanation" spelt the same as "explain"? Casen frasen subspatula English language spelling!!!:rolleyes:
 

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Zoom is a sound not a visual
Yeah - but when the revs get so high your vision starts to blur, it's generally a good time to change "up" ............
 

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Best explanation yet. Awesome!

Why isn't the base part of "explanation" spelt the same as "explain"? Casen frasen subspatula English language spelling!!!:rolleyes:
Elementary my dear fellow.

Explanation is a related term of explain - as a noun explanation is the act or process of explaining.

As a verb explain is to make plain, manifest, or intelligible; to clear of obscurity; to illustrate the meaning of .......

:D
 
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