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Discussion Starter #1
My speedo has quit on me a few times. I thought it came unscrewed from the meter or broke, but the cable is fine. My problem lies in the front wheel. As far as I can see, as the wheel turns, it spins against a metal washer that has tabs on it (#5), and the metal washer spins a gear (# 10), and that gear spins another gear (#13) that spins the speedometer cable. It seems like this tabbed washer is the culprit. It is held on to the gear by a snap ring (between #'s 6 and 5). The washer (#5) has notches on it that locate it on the gear (#10) and these notches are what spins the gear (#10). Does this washer (#5) go bad? It looks like it has some wear on it. I took it all apart and put it back together and it works now, but this is the second time this has happened. I can take pictures if that would help.

 

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Discussion Starter #2
It turns out is was #5 called a Meter clutch. Ordered one from the dealer and installed it yesterday. I got off easy, only five bucks.
 

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I'm interested in this info as well, I've recently been in this area on my brother's TW and #13/#14 are seized hard on his bike.. It looks like someone installed the tabbed washer backwards and it hasn't been working for a while, but the gear is not busting loose. I've had it soaking in PB blaster for a week or so and I'll be giving it a shot early this week.
 

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I'm interested in this info as well, I've recently been in this area on my brother's TW and #13/#14 are seized hard on his bike.. It looks like someone installed the tabbed washer backwards and it hasn't been working for a while, but the gear is not busting loose. I've had it soaking in PB blaster for a week or so and I'll be giving it a shot early this week.




Just to update this, since Jontow never did (
)



...



The speedo on my bike didn't work when I got it, and as he said it was because it was all seized up inside the front drum. Or so we thought. The tabbed washer you speak of in the above posts was actually also flipped around backwards so that the tabs were not engaging. We soaked the whole thing in PB Blaster long enough to free it up and get it a bit cleaner, and flipped the washer around. There was some creative reshaping, as it was a bit tweaked, but now all is well and the speedo/odometer have worked for just shy of 1000 close-enough-to-accurate miles
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Just last week my speedometer stopped working again. I opened up my front hub and found that the tabbed washer (#5) was stripped on the gear it rides on. It would just spin and would never engage #13 in order to turn the speedometer cable. Found out that #13 was seized and therefore instead of the bike coming to an abrupt stop, it would shear #5.



I still can't figure out how to remove #13 and #14, but luckily I had an extra brake shoe plate (#12) and now all is well.
 

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While operose was busy doing fork seals and reconnecting crap, I was doing the speedo gear tinkering.. I never did figure out how to get #13 and #14 out, either, but didn't need to.. There was still quite a lot of the original grease on that gear, it took a while to clean it out so I could get to everything, but once we soaked it for a week (a bit more, actually) in PB Blaster, I was able to lightly use a drift punch to work the gear back and forth and eventually free it up enough to regrease it and get it rolling smoothly again.



That out of the way, I concentrated on #5, which doesn't look exactly as the picture shows, its a lot more flat and a lot more flimsy.. But luckily when it strips, it appears to only slightly mangle the 'keyed' flat spots in its inside surface. I used the basic principles of metal to "repair" this surface back to a near press fit.



For those not familiar with the basic principles of metal: just hit it with a hammer.. the trick is how and where you hit it




Again using the drift punch, I attacked the flat areas and corners of them, and by thinning (stretching) the metal slightly, was able to get it back to the right fit. This however has the side effect of making this a short-lived repair, since #13/#14 seizing again will strip this out much easier now, since its so damned thin. We needed to put it back together nowish, rather than waiting on the slow boat from yamaha-japan to deliver a single tiny little part. It'll be replaced when the next brake job happens, or so.
 

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The part #5 is cheap, but the wear on it is, in my opinion, from driving in muddy water,

or other gritty stuff that makes the D- hole an O-hole.
 

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i am looking to replace the speedometre and everything onto a new brake plate and unsure how to remove this part…...does any know now how to remove *13? yet? any tips appreciated

cheers
 
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