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Discussion Starter #1
OK, I am new at this.

But I want my (soon I hope, weather permitting) TW200 to have longer legs.

The stock set up is 14/50.

Many of you run 15/50.

Others have suggested +1 on the front, and -1, -2, or -3 on the back.

What are the trade off's?

What about chain wear at different combinations of sprockets?

I am asking because I am new to chain bikes. Also, I do not want to get too creative because the more variance from OEM could mean loads and stresses that were never meant for the component---like final drives (read: repair $$$) on BMW oilheads and some K bikes.

Feel free to suggest a link, a book, or other material that could shed some light on this subject.
TIA,
Howard
 

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Alot depends on what type of riding you do the most so you can get the most out of your choice. I myself have 14/52 as I ride 90% off road can still go 60 no problem. I ride pavement to get to my riding area here at home or trailer my bike if going over I90 to ride Eastern Washington. I feel the sweet spot for my setup is 45-50, can cruse all day at that speed on the pavement, but no problem going 60 to get where I need to go as well. Love the 52 for dirt because I don't have to shift as often, can cruse in 3rd-4th gears most of the time on the fire roads. I did not go up in the front because it's a PITA. If I did go up in the front for any reason I would being going up to 55 in the rear. I use my bike to get to some out of the way hunting spots that can get rather tricky sometimes. Hope this helps alittle. Just depends on your riding style like I said. No one on here is going to fault you for any choice. JUST GET RID OF THAT STOCK FRONT TIRE!!!:):) You will thank all of us later.

Tracy
 

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The simple trade off is performance. If you go up a tooth on the front its about the equivalent of going to a 47 tooth in the rear. Both of these will yield a little more top end speed if(and its a big if) your terrain permits it( IE hills). The tradeoff of that extra top end speed is less acceleration and possibly a lot of trouble climbing hills. This is something you have to decide you want to pursue and how you plan on riding it will really dictate that. If your plan is to ride around town at around town speeds like you mentioned in another post the factory 14/50 should be just fine for you its a pretty good all around setup and in my opinion Yamaha really nailed it with that combo, they got it right. IMHO if you plan is to try and turn it into a highway bike you really should look at a different bike with a bigger engine, the tw is just not built for high speed. It doesn't have enough power and it not the most stable thing at 65-70 if you can get it there and if there are any hills involved you will never sustain highway speed.

Chain wear i consider a non issue. If you get a good quality o-ring or x-ring and care for it, you will need new sprockets again by the time you wear it out.

If you want to see numbers check out this link. http://http://www.sprocketcalculator.com/. The factory chain is 122 links should you decide to play with this.


Both of my TW's prior owners had changed out the rear sprocket, one to a a 45 the other a 47. Both bikes were total dogs and could not get out of their own ways. They were faster then stock but only on a flat or downhill. Up a hill forget it, they would fall on their face. I put them back to the factory and am much happier, i can ride them comfortably to 55 without feeling like I'm killing it and still climb a hill in the process. The one that had the 45 tooth on it was a real dog. The prior owner tried to make it into a freeway commuter and ended up wearing the engine out way before its time in the process, which is part of the reason he sold it and i have it now(with a fresh rebuilt motor).
 

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JUST GET RID OF THAT STOCK FRONT TIRE!!!:):) You will thank all of us later.

Tracy
What's the deal with the front tire? I've heard this mentioned a few times but don't recall seeing it explained?

I've only put 75 miles on my new TW and before I got one based on chatter I heard and what the salesman said I thought I'd end up changing sprockets slightly for a few more MPH top end but after riding I feel like I like the way it is just fine. I hit 68 today, which is plenty fast for me, but I won't be driving sustained 60+ very often at all.
 

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What's the deal with the front tire? I've heard this mentioned a few times but don't recall seeing it explained?

I've only put 75 miles on my new TW and before I got one based on chatter I heard and what the salesman said I thought I'd end up changing sprockets slightly for a few more MPH top end but after riding I feel like I like the way it is just fine. I hit 68 today, which is plenty fast for me, but I won't be driving sustained 60+ very often at all.
Well, its nicknamed the "deathwing" for a reason. In a nutshell its not a good tire at all, they cup badly and are really loud on the road when they wear a little. I also found the tire to be what i call squirmy when leaned over in the corner, not very confidence inspiring. Off road they are pretty much useless and wash out on anything hard packed. Why Yamaha still puts this tire on the front is beyond me. The stock rear is fine and is a good tire, the front...garbage.

There are a lot better options out there. This thread lists a lot of options http://tw200forum.com/forum/performance-customization/3635-front-tire-choices.html. The Shinko 244 and Kenda 270 are two that are very popular on this forum and are tried and true options. I personally run the Shinko 244 on both of mine and an very pleased. it does everything better than the stocker.
 

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Generally, from a stock setup; a1 tooth change on the front (smaller/larger) is equal to a 3 tooth change on the rear in the other direction (smaller/larger).
The TW is different than other bikes in that a front sprocket change requires the engine's left side-cover be removed and oil drained or bike leaned over - and caution used to not pinch/cut a couple of wires during the process. Thus, unless the front sprocket is worn and needs to be replaced, it is much easier to change the rear sprocket.

My thoughts are that just because a bike can be gotten up to a certain speed (say 65) doesn't mean I want to ride it there. The stability is fine for me; but at higher speeds (say 60 plus) IN TRAFFIC - I want the ability to accelerate out of a situation. At those speeds, the TW doesn't have that acceleration, so I don't consider it a freeway bike - although many here consider it fine and do it a-lot.

For a few sprocket tests I have done, read the thread: 45 tooth rear sprocket evaluation on pavement . The huge difference in going to the 45 tooth rear was the more comfortable smooth ride from the reduction in vibration due to the lower rpms per mph at the higher speeds.

-J-
 

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Discussion Starter #7
old w/2 many guns and bikes,
What is the date of posting on that thread?

Going from a stock to 50 to 45 is a 10% reduction in teeth. Did the RPM at higher speeds drop by at least 10%? On the flip side, did the minimum RPM increase to keep the bike moving without coughing or burping? (Try riding a stock Duc below 3500RPM in the city)
Best,
H
 

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old w/2 many guns and bikes,
What is the date of posting on that thread?

Going from a stock to 50 to 45 is a 10% reduction in teeth. Did the RPM at higher speeds drop by at least 10%? On the flip side, did the minimum RPM increase to keep the bike moving without coughing or burping? (Try riding a stock Duc below 3500RPM in the city)
Best,
H
It will be about a 10% drop in rpm at like 65mph. Just keep in mind that with that gearing an already acceleration challenged bike will become acceleration crippled due to the loss in torque to the rear wheel.

The TW doesn't really have any harshness at low RPM like a Ducati does. Its such a mild state of tune that its pretty well mannered. I understand exactly where you are coming from tho, my Multistrada was like a bucking bronco at 3500 or less until i ditched the exhaust valve, replaced the factory exhaust and put a set of fat ducs on it.
 

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Look At This Calculator

Going from a stock to 50 to 45 is a 10% reduction in teeth. Did the RPM at higher speeds drop by at least 10%? H
If you didn't look at a sprocket calculator, do so now and it will answer your gearing question (though not the engine performance one). This one is rather more useful than the one referenced above. Of course, you can't assume that the engine is capable of the same rpm's at the higher load.

I'm about to change out a TW we recently acquired for my wife (putting on O-ring chain and two new sprockets, parts arriving next week) and am sticking with stock gearing. On my TW I've found that it's about right - will go as fast on the highway as I want to go, but still has enough power for off-road or upgrades. Well, not a LOT of power, but as much as can be expected from this machine!
 

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On gravel and dirt the stock tire goes where it wants, you have to wrestle it all the time. I put on a Shinko 241 and it goes where I point it, have much better control. There are many threads on tires and many opinions. No one keeps stock tire long.
 

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How to Link Text in a Post

09/15/2014 sorry, I don't know how to make it a link you can just click on;
To do that just highlight the text that you want to be the link (hold left mouse button while you mouse over the word), then click on the icon above the text window that looks like the world with two links of chain superimposed (Link to Worldwide Web) and type or paste your link into the box that pops up. Like this: "You can find this gizmo here" (where the link is to Amazon - hover your cursor over the blue here and you'll see the Amazon web address at the bottom left of your browser). Or, just as functional but slightly less elegant is to just type or paste the link into the text like this: Amazon.com . The forum software will turn it into a link. If you paste in the link the software may come up with a long descriptor like this: Amazon.com: Online Shopping for Electronics, Apparel, Computers, Books, DVDs & more

(I know more about computers than I do about bikes, which is actually not saying a lot, and is actually why I'm on here learning so often.)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
First of all, I want to thank everyone for your help. But now I think I have a handle on this.

According to the HP vs. Torque curves the sweet spot on the bike is between 5000 and 7000RPM. That is the happy place where the bike will be most responsive to throttle inputs.

Using the interactive gearing charts, with a 14/45 set up, at 5000RPM in 1st gear projected speed is at 12.6 mph and 5th is projected at 43.4.

At 7000RPM, in 1st gear projected speed is at 17.6 mph and 5th is projected at 60.7

Bottom line for my intended street use: I will have enough power to get through intersections from a stoplight in 1st gear, I may have to downshift on the more pronounced hills, I will probably spend a lot of time in 3rd and 4th gear depending on traffic, I will be shifting a bit more.

Let's hope for a nice spring day next week so I can test ride at a dealer.

Best,
Howard
 
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