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OK Here is another tip from your full service Bay Area Yamaha dealer BLING if you take a TTR 225 stainless steel head pipe and replace your rusty stock one your exhaust will sparkle from motor to the FMF muffler or whatever pipe you are running I found one on ebay for $38.50 shipped it is going to need some cleaning but stainless cleans up easy.
 

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Yeah I'm sold how much ya selling these for!!!!!???? I'm gonna look for one of these right away thanks for the great pics bike looks great
 

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I've got a stainless steel XT225 header and have started to polish it. Can someone confirm that the stock heatshield/pipe guard is also stainless steel, or is it just regular steel?



Thanks!
Stick a magnet on it.
If it sticks, it's carbon steel.
If it doesn't stick, it's stainless.
 
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Its nice to have a little mag on your SS. that way if you every need to weld it, all you need is a Mig Welder, Or even a Torch.
If Its real good quality SS. It takes a Tig Welder to weld or repair.

Anyway thats what I have always thought.
 

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Worth picking one up if you can find them - both my TW's leave some dust on the garage floor from the original header pipes, so the writing is on the wall

One word of advice (well, several actually), stainless steel is typically thinner than mild steel, so expect some increased noise down there - but the main thing is that the flange is a direct fit to the cylinder head - it's all gravy after that. Better if you can pick one up complete with heat shield, saves some messing about ......
 

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Some series of stainless steels are magnetic. The one that Yamaha uses for header pipes is not magnetic. The heat shields are painted steel and are magnetic.
Correctimundo Brian, but...
I started to mention that some types of stainless steel (SS) are somewhat magnetic, but thought it might cloud the issue more than clarify in this case.
The "magnet field test" is probably more useful for us than analysis of carbon vs chromium content in defining what is/is not SS and it's various properties.
SS and carbon steels (CS), like beer, come in many varieties and properties.

I've used SS for many years in my motorcycle & sports car hobbies mainly for bright, custom appearance as well as corrosion resistance/avoidance" uses such as those we would all typically use. SS is usually marketed as just "Stainless Steel", while "Rust-prone Steel" is described as"Carbon Steel" or Mild Steel". Both without the technical jargon, such as "Stainless Steel, Type 316L" or "Very high carbon steel".
Way TMI for what we're dealing with!

I'd use use only a magnet to tell the difference between Stainless Steel and Carbon Steel. Like the XT250 pipes...

SS is not terribly difficult to bring to a very hi-level of polish, but it will take time & elbow grease, and it's a nasty process. At least get a buffing attachment for your electric drill, and rouge (polishing compound) made just for SS.
You might find a chrome plating or buffing/polishing shop and let them do it.

Polished SS can be brought to the "white" or "bumper chrome" stage, if you are dedicated. All bright SS will gradually take on a nice, mellow "straw" colored tone near the exhaust port, fading back to bumper chrome along the pipe.
This bike has been done that way...damn, I miss that little bike!



Much more info on Wiki or more technical sites...kinda interesting & boring at the same time.
 

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YBW, that's a pretty good deal...appears to be in great condition!
I'm hearing you have to trim an inch or so from the end of the pipe to fit a TW. Can someone verify?

I'm in process of doing the same mod on my bike.
I've installed and/or polished a number of SS headers for bikes.
What you do depends on what finish you want.
On a scruffy old trailie, just use as is. The finish will stay as-is.

A step up would be to shine it up with course - medium - fine steel wool. A lotta work, but a nice finish.

Or for a big step up, find someone with a metal polishing biz and they can polish it all the way to "bumper chrome" level. It's almost indistinguishable from chrome plating, but...with decent care it will look that way forever.
Some discoloration will occur at the flange end where it gets very hot. You can just "let it mellow" yellow to brown, or polish it almost back to chrome level with SemiChrome or similar metal polish. SemiChrome works very well, a *very* fine abrasive plus some chemical action. In a pinch toothpaste will work, but not as well!

A few weeks ago one of our members posted a SS pipe he had prepped for his bike. He had hand-polished it with 800 grit abrasive paper or cloth and it looked GREAT!
It was a very nice "satin" finish with a fine grain, very professional looking. If you can't find a metal polisher I would really consider that. Also a lot of work.

Mine is now polished to chrome level, but I was lucky to find a metal guy who was a pro and didn't even charge me...we BS'd about motorcycles and racing at Bonneville and became buds.

Now, for the extreme level: I am really anal about my bikes. My TW will never see the kind of off-road action most bikes on here get. It's basically a camp-bike, beer-getter, errand-runner around-town kinda bike. I do like to explore any unpaved road, even woods single-track just not too wild & woolly or rocky. Hell, I'm 75 effin-years old and can't afford many more wipe-outs! But I like beautiful bikes, so...
I know a guy who does hi-tech baked aluminum/ceramic hi-heat resistant aerospace coatings...jet turbine blades, etc. A growing part of his biz is using this coating for hot-rod car headers, springs, suspensions, anything they might normally chrome plate. It is *extremely* durable & *much* cheaper than chrome. And it won't flake, peel or chip. Or discolor. It might get a mild ashy look near the exhaust port every year or so but Semi-Chrome will easily bring it back.
The hot-rod bike & car guys know this coating not only keeps the exhaust temp lower but aids in extracting exhaust gasses quicker & more completely. Like the that butt-ugly header-wrap, but better & better looking.

On a top level 450 single 4-stroke MX bike, this coating produces +1 HP on a Dyna Jet dyno.
Now get this...coat the inside as well for another 1 HP.
Coat inside and outside for +2 "free" HP!
The engines run enough cooler that they only have to change the engine oil every other moto instead of every one! The riders report they can really feel the heat difference.
Get that heat and pressure out of the engine & pipe.
This has nothing to do with our little slugs, but does illustrate the technology.

Here is a sample car header. The guy I know charges $20 per foot for coating pipes. That's per foot, inside plus outside. You can do "either or both". Min. charge is $50.00.


For my TW, he's only doing the inside...I want to keep the shiny outside.

I'm also thinking of getting a nice "grill" too, to go with my pipe...wattaya think?


Two of my (former) bikes with baked aluminum/ceramic coatings:
The KLR 650 was coated inside & out. It was being prepped for Copper Canyon, MX and TAT rides that never happened...dammit!
This system is carbon steel, not stainless.


This MZ super moto 660 single with dual exhaust ports & pipes was coated only on the inside.
 

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YBW...I failed to mention your header is stainless but the heat-guard is carbon steel and will rust if not painted or protected some way.
It's easy-off, easy-on...I'd just paint it and re-do it when needed.
 

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One other benefit of the SS pipe over stock is that it's quieter with the motor running. I would guess because of the thicker gauge.

Don't worry about how much to chop off the pipe to fit the TW, when you mount it up, you can measure then to your pipe and your bike's hangers. Don't just chop away based on someone else's experience. All bikes are not equal.
 
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