[nfpgasmask]

OK guys, so what is better for the TW200 when you want to work on it (removing wheels, taking apart bike, etc), one of those stand type deals or an actual motorcycle jack?



Thanks!



Bart

 

[PalmStateCrawler]

Whatever your wallet can take.

 

[TW-Brian]

Whatever your wallet can take.

If your wallet can't take much, here's a low budget approach.



Well, it turned out to be a little more involved than just drilling a hole in a board, but here is what I ended up with. I screwed the two 2"x11"x2' boards together, drilled a 1 1/8" hole through both boards, and mounted a pipe flange on either side of the hole.



Here is a shot with the front wheel raised.

The boards screwed together are now wide enough to allow the bike to balance with both wheels off the ground. This is not secure enough to allow you to work on the bike but you can now slide the pipe through and pivot the lift in the other direction to raise the rear wheel.

Here is a shot with the rear wheel of the ground.

Kind of cool being able to lift either the front or rear wheel just by sliding the pipe through and rocking it in the other direction without needing to reposition the lift.

 

[iowatdub]

A wooden box just a little taller than the bottom of the engine works good too. Just lift it up on the box. With cyclerack its pretty easy to set it on.

 

[nfpgasmask]

Cool, thanks guys. I have a transmission jack that might work...



Bart

 

[Gerry]

Pretty clever Brian. Seems like a 6 foot long 2x12 ought to do it. A 2x12x8 at Lowes is $9.00. The pipe and flanges are easy to get and reasonably priced. What I like is the simplicity, low cost and when that pipe is angled against the ground, things should be pretty stable. So all you need would be a saw, drill, hammer, some long nail or deck screws and a large wood bit. Do you think that you could scale down on a smaller diameter pipe, flange and bit. I would be nice to save even a few more bucks if you could still construct a safe stand. Great project:

 

[TW-Brian]

Woohoo, I finally got a Missing Link Award from Mr. Gizmow. Thanks Gerry!



(In the spirit of full disclosure, I actually copied this idea from a video that someone on this forum had posted here a little while ago)



Since I already had an old board laying around, a piece of pipe, some screws and a set of wood drill bits from an earlier project, all it took for me was one trip to the hardware store for some pipe flanges.



I wouldn't suggest scaling the pipe diameter and flanges down because it still takes a pretty good pull on the pipe to lift the TW. My first attempt used only a single board, which promptly split lengthwise at the hole (you may notice that I am now using this somewhat narrower board as a base).



Brian

 

[bend42]

When I am at home and have much to do, I have the luxury of a hydraulic bike stand. Lifts the TW right up to a nice working height for an old f**t like me.



But on the road, and even for chain cleaning/lubing at home, I have a very simple lifting device:

It's made from an adjustable aluminum crutch obtained at a garage sale for $1.00, along with a u-bolt and two pieces of flat aluminum stock I had in my junk box.

With the bike on the kick stand, I lift the rear wheel 2-3" and insert the "crutch" . In the photo, the rear wheel is about 2" off the ground, making chain work very easy. I carry this in a small box with me when I am traveling so I can do a quick chain clean and lube wherever.



John

 

[TW-Brian]

It's made from an adjustable aluminum crutch obtained at a garage sale for $1.00, along with a u-bolt and two pieces of flat aluminum stock I had in my junk box.

Hi John,



Any chance you could post a larger picture of your u-bolt setup? I picked up a pair of crutches and would like to do something similar, but my crummy monitor doesn't have the resolution to see yours clearly.



Thanks,



Brian

 

[bend42]

Hi John,



Any chance you could post a larger picture of your u-bolt setup? I picked up a pair of crutches and would like to do something similar, but my crummy monitor doesn't have the resolution to see yours clearly.



Thanks,



Brian

Here is a closeup. Two layers of flat stock below nuts and sitting on top of crutch [one came with u-bolt, I added piece from junk box for strength]; rubber cushion on top of flat stock. Wrapped exposed thread to minimize damage to swing arm.

Hope this helps

 

[TW-Brian]

Perfect, thanks!



Brian

 

[lizrdbrth]

Nice. I use mine with the original rubber feetz because I tend to transfer it from bike-to-bike. Time for a TW-specific version. I like your u-bolt saddle arrangement. More secure but somewhat universal and esily dissassembled. If you don't have one spend 2 bucks at a thrift store and build one. It's one of the handiest gizmos you will ever own.

 

[ToyTank]

I love to re-purpose. Not sure why but seeing this kind of stuff gets me excited.



Now I can't wait for the thrift store to open in the AM.



I have been using a 3 ton floor jack with some scrap wood as shims just because it was in my garage. Works great but at over 100 lbs I'm not taking it with me.

 

[bend42]

Nice. I use mine with the original rubber feetz ...]

Is that really a camo crutch you found? Too much!!

 

[ToyTank]

A 2x12x8 at Lowes is $9.00.

Every time I go to a home depot or lowes I look at the cull wood. Never know what you may find for $.01-$2.01



If you have a hole saw you could use a dowel set down into the boards instead of a pipe and hardware.

 

[socalbubba]

If your wallet can't take much, here's a low budget approach.



Well, it turned out to be a little more involved than just drilling a hole in a board, but here is what I ended up with. I screwed the two 2"x11"x2' boards together, drilled a 1 1/8" hole through both boards, and mounted a pipe flange on either side of the hole.



Here is a shot with the front wheel raised.

The boards screwed together are now wide enough to allow the bike to balance with both wheels off the ground. This is not secure enough to allow you to work on the bike but you can now slide the pipe through and pivot the lift in the other direction to raise the rear wheel.

Here is a shot with the rear wheel of the ground.

Kind of cool being able to lift either the front or rear wheel just by sliding the pipe through and rocking it in the other direction without needing to reposition the lift.

You probably don't need the flange pieces just drill a hole through the wood kind of tight. That is a Great Idea though