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Discussion Starter #1
Ive been riding my 95 a bunch the last few days, pretty much running perfect now after some carb tweaks and suck. I've noticed that after an extended slow speed ride(looking for deer anlters in the grass) that it cranks like that battery is dead, not enough umps to spin it over. Will fire right up first kick though. Cranks like crazy and fires right up cold though. It kinda has to be the starter to only be effected when the engine is the hottest i'm thinking. I may swap starters with my 87 and see if the problem follows the starter. Does not present itself as a connection issue but will obviously check them. Anyone have starter issues on one of these?
 

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More like engine heat, rather than starter.
Are you feeling any power loss?
What is ambient temp?
Oil level good?
What is battery voltage while cranking?
Spark plug looking lean?
Carb jetting?
 

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Could just be the battery isn't staying peaked up due to idling/putting around. With the lights, brakes etc being on, its possible you are drawing more than you are charging. Also, some TW's don't like having the start button held down restarting when hot. Just a quick push on the button worked for me most of the time. How old is the battery. Have you considered load testing it?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ambient temp was 65ish this afternoon. Unlikely its jetting, 118 main jet(old style carb), #42 pilot, I think mixture screw is around 2 or 2-1/8 turns out from seated. Oil level is ok, its only happened a couple times in the field, so no volt meters with me. Starts IMMEDIATELY with kick starter when it does this. Battery came to me with the bike, so its questionable, but zings it over pretty good cold, so I'm leaning towards it being ok, but I wouldn't be terribly surprised if a battery fixed it.
 

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Mine was doing that and I almost bought a new starter. I pulled it and when I looked at the drive pinion on the end of the starter that goes in the engine I notice it wasn't moving freely, it was sticking - gummed up. I cleaned it (should move easy) and its been working great. My bike is an tw200 2001 model.
 

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...Battery came to me with the bike, so its questionable, but zings it over pretty good cold, so I'm leaning towards it being ok, but I wouldn't be terribly surprised if a battery fixed it.
What are voltages starting it cold?
 

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...... I've noticed that after an extended slow speed ride(looking for deer antlers in the grass) that it cranks like that battery is dead, not enough umps to spin it over. ......
I had this same problem because I ride so slowly much of the time. The stator doesn't put out enough juice to keep the lights on and the battery charged up below about 3,000 RPM. I pulled the connectors on the always on front signals and the low beam on the headlight. Problem solved. I just turn on the high beam when on the road.

It could be other stuff, but here is where to start. Pull these connectors, tape off the male sides, charge up the battery good and see if the problem disappears.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I had this same problem because I ride so slowly much of the time. The stator doesn't put out enough juice to keep the lights on and the battery charged up below about 3,000 RPM. I pulled the connectors on the always on front signals and the low beam on the headlight. Problem solved. I just turn on the high beam when on the road.

It could be other stuff, but here is where to start. Pull these connectors, tape off the male sides, charge up the battery good and see if the problem disappears.
Ok. I may wire up a secondary switch to kill the lights while slow cruising.


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Just because the bike starts cold doesn't mean its not the battery. Last summer my buddy pulled the starter out of his FJR because he didn't believe me that it could be the battery. About 8 hrs labour for nothing.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Just because the bike starts cold doesn't mean its not the battery. Last summer my buddy pulled the starter out of his FJR because he didn't believe me that it could be the battery. About 8 hrs labour for nothing.
I bought a battery today, but I’m going to volt meter it anyway just to know what’s going on.


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Don't use that new battery until you have charged it fully. Don't take their word, that it is charged and ready to go. You can damage the battery and lessen it's life and power. Always charge first.
 

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Another example of why I want a kickstarter. Definitely have it tested before buying a new battery. That light killswitch or bulb removal is a great idea for extended putting around. Cheers
 

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Had time time to throw a meter on it,
Went from 11 to 5 volts when I hit the start button. And, it no longer cranked cold. The new battery is on the trickle charger.
KEY ON battery voltage while cranking: Normal is not under 10.5 volts
• If lower, then battery is discharged and needs charging or
• Battery has a bad cell or
• Battery cable(s) have high resistance or
• Solenoid contacts are burnt or
• Starter is drawing too much current (rare)

If the bike is running, battery voltage at about 2,500 RPMs should be 13.8 to 14.8
 
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