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Discussion Starter #1
According to the flow chart of finding starter problems, one is to connect a jumper to the negative post of the battery from the sky-blue wire at the harness. This should turn the starter with the switch. It does not, but there is a healthy click in the relay when I touch the battery post. Every other test works good in this sequence; but the thing sounds to good for toast. What do the experienced have to say? GB
 

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1) Is the click you are hearing from the starting circuit (ckt) cutoff relay? Or from the starter relay (as labeled below)?



2) Can you jump the starter relay to get the starter to spin? That should prove out the starter itself as being good as well as sufficient battery power to spin the starter.



3) If the starter and battery prove good, then I'd prove out the starter relay (with jumper wires from + to L/W and ground to R/W on the trigger terminals). You should test the starter relay by itself as there's always the chance the starting circuit cutoff relay (upstream of the starter relay) is clicking but not actually connecting terminals internally.



4) If starter relay is good then you end up at the starting circuit cutoff relay.



5) Just in case, is the kill switch in the ON/RUN position?




 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks pg,

Yes, those are in the steps leading up to this. Starter is great, better than my leg. Doesn't need to be choked if I jump it at the starter relay;

it is suddenly idling away in front of me. The manual flow chart brings me to this relay and the click is contact of the jumper to ground, not the start button. I can also feel it with my finger. So can it be toasted and still click away happily? Remember, everything else spins the starter.

GB
 

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I'm not familiar with the relay you speak of, but if it were any other relay i would remove it from the system and set it up in a test circuit to be sure it works properly if it were questionable and difficult to isolate on the bike.



Screw listening for clicks, apply voltage and make sure the damn thing is switching like it should be.
 

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Trigger the relay at the input terminals (you should then hear that click) then you could try a continuity test (or check resistance) between the output terminals. If it clicks and there's no continuity (or infinite resistance) then it's moving internally but not connecting the output terminals.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I rigged it to my battery and got 12 volts through it when it clicked on. Didn't want to check for continuity on a hot wire. Looks like it has a diode in as well. Two copper prongs, two brass. I did positives to copper. Have to run and get up into the mountains, probably overnite. Thanks; I trust you more than the manual. GB
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Okay, I think it is coming together. Diagnostically speaking. The relay was functional with nice little sounds produced. But I believe the diode in the starting circuit relay is going out- gone- which is letting juice backfeed so the neutral light comes on dimly with the clutch squeezed, the kill switch won't kill and the start button does not start. I have the kickstand switch by-passed. The neutral light works well for its purpose, but at night it can be seen glowing dimly all the time. Am I making sense? GB
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Update--

I bought a used starting circuit cut-off relay from a 'good running bike' and it starts my bike with the button beautifully, but I have still have

the neutral light on, especially with clutch, and no kill switch. I can't imagine it isn't another bad diode letting electricity go both directions.

A full refund awaits. But perhaps I have not thought of something else? This diode is located just above the neutral light in the diagram ptmg sent above.

Thanks, GB
 

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Discussion Starter #11
pmtg

Thanks, neutral switch would do that, but I went there already. Got it off and fooled with it. Probably check it again just to be sure.

GB
 

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If anything, unhook the sky blue wire to the neutral switch and check condition of your neutral light when running. Is the light still dimly lit?



Are you opposed to removing the starting circuit cutoff relay? You could bypass it. Or at least bypass it and see what happens to your neutral light.
 

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For future reference, here are some modified diagrams...



1) Without safety switches...







2) Without safety switches, starter, and kill switch (used key to turn off bike). Don't forget to ground the wire coming from the CDI to what was the kickstand switch...



 
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