TW200 Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I just ordered a bunch of O-rings, oil filter and related. This means a removal of the oil filter housing. It has 2 Phillips and 1 Allen in it now. It makes me think it will take some patience to not snap something.

While the bike only has 2,250 miles on it, I need to change the chain due to a lot more rust on it than I'd like to see. I haven't counted the teeth on the sprockets yet but would like to start off on the right foot with the O-ring chain and sprockets when I figure the tooth count. As both of these repairs require screw removal I was wondering if anyone has taken the time to change them to Allen head? TIA, Gary
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,417 Posts
Those are not phillips, they are "Japanese Industry Standard". Be very careful or they will strip too.



Now would be a good time to shop your local hardware store and change over to all Allen heads.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,223 Posts
I recommend that you get a kit to replace the screws. You'll end up stripping the heads and you'll start cursing the bike. Like srs713 said, they are not phillips, rather JIS screws which strip easily when removed with a standard phillips screw driver.



I bought a kit from alloyboltz via ebay. It was under 30 bucks and everything fit great. Now when I have to remove my side cases, all I need is a 5mm allen head driver. It was worth the money to me big time.



Try this link.



I went to the hardware store before I bought my kit and priced out individual bolts for the engine cases. I couldn't find the longer bolts that hold on the starter motor. If I bought individual bolts, the cost was over 50 bucks.



The alloyboltz.com kit was under 30 bucks. You can order from them here.



There are other brands, so you can shop around. Make sure you use anti-sieze because of the stainless vs. aluminum.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Those are not phillips, they are "Japanese Industry Standard". Be very careful or they will strip too.



Now would be a good time to shop your local hardware store and change over to all Allen heads.
I have the Impact Driver all warmed up!





I recommend that you get a kit to replace the screws. You'll end up stripping the heads and you'll start cursing the bike. Like srs713 said, they are not phillips, rather JIS screws which strip easily when removed with a standard phillips screw driver.



I bought a kit from alloyboltz via ebay. It was under 30 bucks and everything fit great. Now when I have to remove my side cases, all I need is a 5mm allen head driver. It was worth the money to me big time.



Try this link.



I went to the hardware store before I bought my kit and priced out individual bolts for the engine cases. I couldn't find the longer bolts that hold on the starter motor. If I bought individual bolts, the cost was over 50 bucks.



The alloyboltz.com kit was under 30 bucks. You can order from them here.



There are other brands, so you can shop around. Make sure you use anti-sieze because of the stainless vs. aluminum.
Great, thanks. That was the sort of info I was looking for. I tried a search but haven't got the hang of the key-words here. On the V-Bulletin sites this sort of info can be "tagged" and entered into the "tag" cloud-doesn't seem to be an option on the forum. +1 on the anti-sieze, dissimilar metals really like to become one. I already started with the PB Blaster.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,223 Posts
I have the Impact Driver all warmed up!







Great, thanks. That was the sort of info I was looking for. I tried a search but haven't got the hang of the key-words here. On the V-Bulletin sites this sort of info can be "tagged" and entered into the "tag" cloud-doesn't seem to be an option on the forum. +1 on the anti-sieze, dissimilar metals really like to become one. I already started with the PB Blaster.




You are most welcome.



As far as the search goes, hop onto google.com and type in: site:tw200forum.com alloy boltz or change alloy boltz to whatever you are searching for. That is the best way to search this site.



When I first got my bike, I changed sprockets, the clutch, the oil, etc... and after a while, the stock screws started to get stripped because I used a standard phillips screw driver. I was afraid that one day they would strip to the point where I couldn't get them off, so thats why I went with the stainless allen heads. I am so very happy with them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Make sure you have 4 clear and open holes in the rubber and metal on the end of the filter! There are bad one out there, I just got a bad one a few weeks ago!
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
10,664 Posts
Stainless allen heads and milk-of-magnesia. Changed the carb float bowl and slide screws, too, as well as those on the handlebar controls. Tdub has allen heads or hex heads everywhere possible.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Stainless allen heads and milk-of-magnesia. Changed the carb float bowl and slide screws, too, as well as those on the handlebar controls. Tdub has allen heads or hex heads everywhere possible.
Milk-of Magnesia? Anyway, parts are in, oil filter looks right. Ordered a case cover gasket, going to go with 14/47 gears and it looks like a DID O-ring change. I'll do it all at once.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
To help prevent the Stainless Steel Bolts from seizing into the Aluminum Bike Parts. Dissimilar Metals, they will corrode!!!
Hmmm, It's nice to stock a product that will serve a dual purpose.
I generally use this-

Permatex never-seize

I don't think it's dual purpose though.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top