[san_mas]

Hi All,

I need some real life numbers from you guys.I need someone to disconnect the stator wires (the 3 white wires in the connector)and tell me what the voltage output is at idle and at about 5000 rpm.This is done by connecting the voltmeter(on volts ac) between the white wires only.Also,the ohms between each of the white wires.Have been trouble shooting a non charging system and am pretty sure its the stator.Purchased bike this way so no telling what may have happened.1991 with only 988 miles.Not sure if a bad battery may have fried the stator.Thx in advance. Vmaxer

 

[Dave Nafziger]

Vm-

Every white needs to read .32- .39 Ohms to every other white. If there is a short in the insulation between the stator and connector you will have

bad figures. I hope you do; that's getting off easy. Worse things can give you bad readings here. But I don't think a low battery would hurt your

stator.

In the Yamaha Manual, Supplement, for 88 and up, it gives a chart for output in amps, and says at about 1500 RPM output should be 1.5 or less;

at 5000 RPM 11 or more. And it is an A.C. unit. In the main section, for the unique 87 model it gives output at 5000 RPM at 14 volts. I have my tank

off right now; maybe later I can help more.

-GB

 

[san_mas]

Greybeard,

I'm seeing .6-.7 ohms at idle.Yamaha tech said I should see 35v at idle and 75v at 5000.I'm seeing 11v at idle and 50-52v at 5000.35v at idle seems high to me.Can't find any publications to back these numbers so next best is rael world numbers from a properly running bike. V

 

[qwerty]

You are testing resistance (ohms) with the engine running?

 

[san_mas]

No,that was a mistake.Still need to know voltage though.

 

[Dave Nafziger]

Vmaxer-



I would test the individual Whites for resistance because it is so easy. And I would listen to the Yamaha tech and not say anything, because I would guess that maybe his concept of idle and mine are 500 RPM or more different, and that's probably a lot of output difference. Also the newer bikes

without kickstarters and 55 watt headlights have higher output stators, and this may have been his reference. Or another bike, maybe?



Where did you get the .6-.7 ohms figure? This wasn't between Whites was it?



GB

 

[san_mas]

Greybeard,

I agree,the testing procedure for both is quite easy.Here is what I am doing.Most publications say test ohms at the lowest ohm setting or 2k.My voltmeter has a 200 setting,if I use the 2k I get no reading,but at 200 each white wire(3)read 0.6.Ithanswitch to volts,start the bike,and again check each white wire at idle(approx 600 rpm).Reads 12.7 across each wire.If anyone else can do these easy step and tell me what the see I would appreciate it.Also,at 5000rpm I am seeing about 52 volts. VM

 

[Stromper]

Well you lost me



Bike runs on DC except maybe headlight but is 12Volts DC so must be checked on DC Volt Scale



Stator winding make AC so must be checked on AC volt scale



Resistance is measured in OHMS with nothing running



Resistasnce from coil wires to the ground negative battery terminal should be VERY HIGH like meg ohm

or just show it as an open circuit



Resistance from coil wire should be the value specified



If very high its broken or connections are bad



If lower than specified than some wires are shorted out to each other so bad

 

[san_mas]

I understand the bike is DC.I am only concerned with the voltage output of the stator disconnected from the bike while running.And the ohms of the stator disconnected from the bike and not running. VM

 

[san_mas]

The AC voltage output.

 

[operose]

My bike is a frankenstein, otherwise I'd check for you. Best of luck. If you get it figured out, maybe add the info to the CDI thread I started a while back





<edit>



That is to say, I have man-handled and abused my stator while adding a non-stock ignition coil to the stator arrangement. This may or may not have caused me to break wires or change something inherent in the system that would cause the readings to be different than what you are seeing. It would be best to compare against a stock, working bike.

 

[Dave Nafziger]

Mine is in the shop and I don't have any satisfaction about when I'll get it back. Sorry.

 

[san_mas]

Thx Greybeard.More info from a Yamaha service tech.Stator produces AC voltage.Range is supposed to be between 40-80 VAC from idle to 5000rpm.Said that the RR is not a step up transformer and not capable of increasing the voltage .The RR's purpose is to change the AC wave form to DC and regulate the DC output to the battery.At idle the battery should show approx 13.4 VDC and a little over 14 VDC at 5000.My VAC at idle is about 11.5 so there is no way I can see 13.4 at the battery thus bad stator.Hope this helps someone that may find themselves in the boat I am in now.So,my next request is does anybody have a known good 1988-1999 stator for sale? Vmaxer

 

[operose]

It's about to be cold, maybe you should read up on rewinding stators or send it off to someone that does it for a fee

 

[Stromper]

First the whole system is inter related, and or 1 think burning or shorting and it does/might burnout the next component.



Here is the preferred Shindengen fh012 R/R however I don't know this guy, shop for your best price



http://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen FH012AA Regulator upgrade kit.htm



Before you slap in the next thing though do the do diligence and test your stator

Open to ground and proper ohm reading lead to lead.



Check your connectors pull and close check for corrosion etc.



Look at the flywheel, in VSTROM land there are many reports of loose magnets that move together and reult in LOW outputs



Remember "Once you let out the magic smoke it stops working"

 

[rm_hm]

Ahhh wire smoke... I still have a jar around somewhere I bought for my Triumph..