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Discussion Starter #1
In the owner's manual they say to remove the 10mm bolt at the rear of the muffle to remove the baffle for cleaning. I did that and I can't seem to remove it. Has the factory welded it on to prevent owner's like me from messing with it? I was going to try to make it quieter before I jet the carb. Has anyone actually done this? I am thinking I am going to have to grind the weld off to remove it. Anyone?
 

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Once that bolt is out, the spark arrestor (baffle) is usually corroded in. Lots of penetrating oil, channel locks, and lots of cuss words are usually what it takes. Maybe try soaking it with penetrating oil for a few days in a row. Or if you don't have patience, like me, just start using muscle. But I didn't put mine back in so I didn't care what happened to it when I removed it.
 

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I successfully removed the baffle without damaging it. I got the phillips screw out with an impact driver. I tried tapping the baffle from every which way with a rubber hammer. no luck. I used a bodyshop dent puller wedged inside the baffle to extract it. Worked like a charm. After I removed it I of coarse had to modify it. All I did was hacksaw the crimped bit of pipe on the end off. Probably make the pipe not a spark arrestor now but I am going to change the exaust this year if I can't tune the stock pipe quieter.
 

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In the owner's manual they say to remove the 10mm bolt at the rear of the muffle to remove the baffle for cleaning. I did that and I can't seem to remove it. Has the factory welded it on to prevent owner's like me from messing with it? I was going to try to make it quieter before I jet the carb. Has anyone actually done this? I am thinking I am going to have to grind the weld off to remove it. Anyone?


I ordered some fiberglass packing for a dirt bike muffler. When I took the baffle/ spark arrester out, there were a few remaining pieces of the original packing in there, but it was basically an empty chamber. I wrapped one layer of approximately 3/4" thick batting around the core, secured it with 2 pieces of stainless safety wire, and re-inserted the baffle. It is amazingly quieter now. You hear the mechanical clickety clack of the motor, but the obnoxious deep sound is gone from the exhaust.
 

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I successfully removed the baffle without damaging it. I got the phillips screw out with an impact driver. I tried tapping the baffle from every which way with a rubber hammer. no luck. I used a bodyshop dent puller wedged inside the baffle to extract it. Worked like a charm. After I removed it I of coarse had to modify it. All I did was hacksaw the crimped bit of pipe on the end off. Probably make the pipe not a spark arrestor now but I am going to change the exaust this year anyway.


You might check on the muffler threads, a complete exhaust makes it louder (sounds like a bad lawn mower) and adds little if any HP, some seem to lose HP.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I am going to pack some fiberglass into the 20 mile old stock baffle. I guess it never had any packing at all in it. Should quiet the pipe a bit. It's kinda strange wanting it more quiet. Usually I go for the loud pipe. Maybe it's an age thing? Dunno.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Packed the muffler packing in the stock pipe and it is as quiet as it is going to get. Hope it stays in place.
 

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you may want to check your plugs in a few. freeing up the exhaust will make the fuel mixture leaner causing it to possibly run hotter than preferred. you may have to rejet the carb. this is also a source of power gain.



good luck shawn



there is a lot of really good information on jetting in the archived threads.
 

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you may want to check your plugs in a few. freeing up the exhaust will make the fuel mixture leaner causing it to possibly run hotter than preferred. you may have to rejet the carb. this is also a source of power gain.



good luck shawn



there is a lot of really good information on jetting in the archived threads.


I actually dynoed Tdub with a 132 main. She made slightly more peak horsepower at high rpm with a significant loss of torque off-idle and through the midrange without the muffler insert, likely because the lambda sensor showed a bit rich with the insert inserted and a bit lean with the insert uninserted. Overall, Tdub was slower in timed acceleration runs due to the low midrange torque without the insert. More horsepower = slower sounds
, but that was actual dyno and timed acceleration. Torque hauls fat butts, horsepower is merely a calculation. Peaky powerband is
with a wide-ratio transmission.
 
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