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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
i'm about to order a bunch of kickstarter parts from boats.net, and since i'm getting free shipping because of that, i thought it might be a good opportunity to stock up on consumable parts for my convenience down the road. i've got a 2006 tw200 with about 500 miles on it :D

here are some i've identified:

Oil change:
5H0-13440-09-00 ELEMENT ASSY,OIL CLE (oil filter)
93210-54175-00 O-RING (oil filter cover oring)
93210-07135-00 O-RING (oil filter drain bolt oring)
93210-347A1-00 O-RING (oil drain plug oring)
93210-19123-00 O-RING (oil fill plug oring)

Valve clearance adjustment:
2x 93210-57634-00 O-RING (valve cover oring)

Air filter:
2JX-14451-00-00 ELEMENT,AIR CLNR (foam air filter)

does anyone have other suggestions? thanks
 

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Spare pilot jet, carb bowl gasket, some have trouble with the carb drain screw if you don’t use a JIS screw driver since they are so tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Spare pilot jet, carb bowl gasket, some have trouble with the carb drain screw if you don’t use a JIS screw driver since they are so tight.
thanks again.
for people looking at this in the future, i think these are the part numbers you're talking about. i got them off the carb diagram on babbitt's:

5LB-14342-65-00 JET, PILOT (#31)
5LB-14384-00-00 GASKET, FLOAT CHAMBER
 

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I guess that depends on what you want to spend, but I'd recommend having a complete gasket set. I like having 3 air filters in a rotation... one in the bike and at least one cleaned and oiled up and in a ziplock bag ready to go. I'll also add to the carb parts... I like having a float valve and needle set, a pilot screw set, a spare main jet, a main jet smaller than the one I run and a main jet bigger than the one I run, a spare main nozzle (because it always runs away when a carb is taken apart), a spare main jet holder, a spare needle, and spare spring that goes on top of the needle, and finally a spare rubber parts set (like the diaphragm). Most of this is spare rather than consumable, but I learned that when I need these things that I don't want to wait for them. They won't go bad in the bags, so they'll be good for as long as I have the TW. Happy riding and tinkering!
 

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Tire tubes. Fuel filters. Fuel tube. Not sure if boats.net carries them. Cheers
 
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Easy-Peasy Solution and you only need to get one part...



:p
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
thanks guys

another question:
this is a 2006 bike with 500 miles on it.
i got it almost new back in 2007, and the only thing i've really replaced on it is the oil filter. i haven't ridden it much over the years, but i did at least change the oil before riding it each time (if it sat for a long time) :rolleyes:
i haven't fired it up in 3-4 years now, and i'm thinking of just going down the maintenance chart and doing various things like checking the valve clearance since i'm going to be taking it apart to install a kickstarter anyways.
i'm handy, but i have no real vehicle maintenance experience, so i don't know which things i should just replace due to age regardless of mileage.
going down the maintenance chart, basically every item is due, but should i really worry about it?

more specifically, should i:

-- replace spark plug?
-- repack steering bearings?
-- something else?
 

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Make sure the air filter is not dry rotted. Also check for age cracks on the tires,yours are getting old.
 

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I have a 99 with 32000 kms and just replaced the spark plug even though the original was fine. i have replaced tires but still run the original tubes with no problems. I removed the limiter cap and adjusted the idle mixture but have never had to buy a carb part yet although i have pulled the cover to check it and it was clean inside. If anything I would buy an O-ring chain and if you going to look at the head bearings just buy a set of tapered bearings to replace those bicycle bearings. https://www.allballsracing.com/22-1008.html
 

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Check the air filter and tires is a good suggestion. I would get on it and ride and see if it needs anything before making work. Enjoy it some which will inspire you to repair or modify if it is needed or wanted.
 

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He's saying that because if you change to an O or X ring chain, now is the time to do it before you get too many miles on the bike or you will need to replace both sprockets due to wear.
good suggestions, thank you all



what about low milage specifically demands o-ring/x-ring chain?
sorry if i'm reading reasoning where none was intended
 
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He's saying that because if you change to an O or X ring chain, now is the time to do it before you get too many miles on the bike or you will need to replace both sprockets due to wear.
Yep, if the chain stretches. I love O or X ring chain, but with proper lubrication, stock chain will go a very long time.
 
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If it has been sitting idle for an extended time period ? and it sounds like may have been ? hopefully with the carb empty and the bowl drained of excess gas during that period ? I'd be dumping the gas from the tank if any is still residing there as even " Blue" Stable, ( if used ) which is good when used in the gas with ethanol additives... will over time seperate and is only said to be good "Up To" 2 years.

Personally, I'd fill the empty tank with fresh gas ( I use Premium Non-Ethonol when ever available ) check air pressure in both tires, oil the chain and go for a ride.... The rider should be able to see, feel, or hear areas that may need further inspection and or attention.

excalibur
 
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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
If it has been sitting idle for an extended time period ? and it sounds like may have been ? hopefully with the carb empty and the bowl drained of excess gas during that period ? I'd be dumping the gas from the tank if any is still residing there as even " Blue" Stable, ( if used ) which is good when used in the gas with ethanol additives... will over time seperate and is only said to be good "Up To" 2 years.

Personally, I'd fill the empty tank with fresh gas ( I use Premium Non-Ethonol when ever available ) check air pressure in both tires, oil the chain and go for a ride.... The rider should be able to see, feel, or hear areas that may need further inspection and or attention.

excalibur
basically, i changed the oil, added fuel stabilizer, turned the petcock to the off position, and left it for 3-4 years.
i didn't drain the carb. i don't know what the bowl is, but i didn't drain that either.
i'll drain the tank and rinse it clean with fresh gas, but should i do something with the carb too?

i wanted to drain the tank today, but the fuel line was basically impossible to pull off of the petcock.
i ended up just cutting the fuel line (with the petcock still set to off), and the fuel line was empty. i guess it evaporated somehow.
 
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