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Have two stripped screws in the lid for the front brake reservoir. What's the way to remove these. They are fairly tight.


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Use a JIS screwdriver, not a Phillips.

If you don't have a JIS, try placing a rubber band over the screw head, then the screw driver.
Next; an impact driver
Last; a drill bit in reverse with significant pressure bearing down.
 

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What your picture shows is a classic example of using a regular Phillips head driver in a JIS screw head. I call it Round Out and have found it on every used TW and other Japanese bikes I have ever owned. I would first try using a good quality straight blade screw driver that I could pound into the two best slots left and see if the pounding in loosens the screw enough to gingerly turn it out.

GaryL
 

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Those little master cylinder cover screws are somewhat unique with their shoulder taper assisting in sealing the screws to the cover. So take care when replacing with non OEM screws. Once removed I would modify the old ones with Mr.Dremel to accept a blade and re-install. Very little torque is required to seat and seal cover since there is virtually no pressure nor stress acting on the screws.
 

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Some of you guys and gals come here to learn. Some of us learned the hard ways and some of us learned from actual schooling in mechanics. Pay attention and this may save you some time, effort and most of all some $$$.

My brother drives me nuts and I do a lot of projects around his house with him. I don't know what it is but think it has to do with his vision. When he uses a drill to remove an old screw from a plank while I am standing back I can easily see he does not have the drill with the driver bit planted straight into the screw slots. It is always canted one way or another and he is forever buggering up the screw heads when he puts some torque to them. He always gets angry with me when I tell him he is not straight in the screw. We did composite decking on his outdoor deck and spent an entire day running screws getting the decking down. The special screws came with a special screw bit in each box. His screw bit was toast after each box and I screwed the entire day with the first bit I started with. At the end of the day with the deck all finished I had 11 brand new unused driver bits in my pocket and all of his were garbage. Only then did he understand that he does not screw straight. If a 4 slot screw takes a 4 way, cross point type driver, then it is imperative that all four points of the driver are seated squarely in the 4 slots of the screw head. You guys who always end up with rounded over screws really need to take note of how square you are holding the driver in the driven screw. It is not your fault that you probably can't see that you are not level or square but it does become rather costly and wastes a lot of time when you have to fight so many screws out because you can't screw straight. Maybe the proper term is perpendicular to the screw head but all 4 sides of the driver should be touching all sides of the driven screw slots and any tilt will cause round out or round over on tight screws. It is the very same principal with wrenches and sockets. Most bolts have 6 surfaces yet most socket and box wrench sets have 12 points. Open end wrenches only have 2 contact surfaces. On a very tight bolt you must always use a tight fitting 6 point socket or 6 point box end wrench or you will round the bolt head over. 12 point sockets and wrenches are made for tight areas and not for tight bolts. A tight area is described as where you do not have the throw for your wrench or socket to go 1/6 th of a turn. You might also notice that some socket wrenches have very fine teeth that click quickly while other have deeper and heavier teeth that click slower as they turn. Use the one that has the deep and heavy clicks when you are fighting a very tight bolt. I have ratchet wrenches I have used with a 3 foot piece of pipe for leverage on tractors that I never broke and a few little 3/8 drive ones that I stripped the teeth or broke square just with my hands. JIS screws are renamed as Cross Points here in the US. It is a Patent thing and the Japanese have the patent on the name but not on the screw heads. We can't call them JIS which stands for (Japanese Industrial Standard) but we can call them Cross Points. Use the right tool and use it right or pay the price in time and money.

GaryL
 

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Gary!

Wisdom from one who has seen or made most of the mistakes man is capable of mechanically. Jeez, it took me fifty years to learn all that stuff. You shoulda seen the mess I made out of my first (and only) go cart at age 8! :(

Speaking of squirrels, I flattened one just two weeks ago for exactly that same reason. The little critter darted out from the right edge, saw me bearing down at 60, turned and darted back, changed his mind and darted directly under my left front wheel. :confused2:

Thump!
 

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I drilled the head off, popped the cap off and then used vise grips to remove the decapitated screw.
 

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I learn from all my MANY mistakes. The trick is to not repeat them. Use it as a learning experience, get wiser and move on. Always try to have the right tools. My wisdom contribution for the day ;)
 

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Use a dremel with a cutting wheel to cut a slot into the two damaged screws, then use a flat blade screwdriver to remove them. Easy, takes 30 seconds.

But yeah, if you work on Japanese bikes with any regularity do yourself a favor and order a set of JIS screwdrivers.
 

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The carb drain screw is another one that seem to be often ridiculously overtightened. Mine get the Dremel cut-off wheel treatment so if a JIS driver is not readily at hand a common #2 Phillips or a variety of flat blade screwdrivers will readily open and close the drain screw.
If folks want to keep their TW JIS fasteners rather than upgrade to socket head allen or hex fasteners then investing in an impact driver with JIS bits is a good idea, use it every time to loosen JIS screws to lessen probability of fastener damage.
 

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You can also create a deeper, wider slot across the screw and use a slotted (-) screwdriver. Get some serious downwards pressure on it when backing it out.
 

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Use a dremel with a cutting wheel to cut a slot into the two damaged screws, then use a flat blade screwdriver to remove them. Easy, takes 30 seconds.

But yeah, if you work on Japanese bikes with any regularity do yourself a favor and order a set of JIS screwdrivers.
Yeah, what my Z said...
 

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I would use the impact hammer. Put in the correct bit, hit it with the hammer and they should reverse right out. They are too damaged to do by hand but that should get a bite and come right out.
 

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Good results and I will bet the action of pounding into the buggered head also broke the threads loose allowing the screw to back out. Hope you do plan on buying new screws either OEM or from another source and please do use a dab of Never Sezze on the threads. There really is no need for those screws to be torqued down that tight but metal screws mated into aluminum housings tend to lock up anyway. My Slap Hammer impact tool gets the most use of any other tool I own when ever I am working on my bikes and other engines.

GaryL
 
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