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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys I’m out of ideas and about to bust out the sawzal so I’m wondering what advice you have.

Finally I have amassed the main components needed and have gotten fed up with seeing my beloved ‘05 “Stephany” sitting in her wrecked state from when we got hit. Stupidly I did not tip it when draining the fuel tank so I left some fuel in and the cap was on. Now I cannot get the lock to turn to unlock the cap. The key goes in fine and all the pins and tumblers move freely but the lock cylinder itself will not rotate to unlock the lugs. I can’t find my dry graphite (which I need for another lock anyway) but do not expect it would help. The vent on the cap is working as I can blow into the petcock and the air escapes out and I have tried spraying so penetrating oil up under the cap but zero luck. I tried bumping the key back and forth to free the cylinder it stoped when the key started to twist and still no movement of the cylinder.

I’m perfectly willing to sacrifice the cap as I need to get inside the tank to see its condition to know the best option tankwise going forward and if I have to scrounge up the money for a new tank. I don’t like the Clark tanks so that isn’t an option at their price but I do have leads on both a TW tank and an XT225 tank but both will need paint that I’m not set up to do and I’ve spent too much already.

Thanks for any help/advice/free beer that you can give.
 

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Hey guys I’m out of ideas and about to bust out the sawzal so I’m wondering what advice you have.

Finally I have amassed the main components needed and have gotten fed up with seeing my beloved ‘05 “Stephany” sitting in her wrecked state from when we got hit. Stupidly I did not tip it when draining the fuel tank so I left some fuel in and the cap was on. Now I cannot get the lock to turn to unlock the cap. The key goes in fine and all the pins and tumblers move freely but the lock cylinder itself will not rotate to unlock the lugs. I can’t find my dry graphite (which I need for another lock anyway) but do not expect it would help. The vent on the cap is working as I can blow into the petcock and the air escapes out and I have tried spraying so penetrating oil up under the cap but zero luck. I tried bumping the key back and forth to free the cylinder it stoped when the key started to twist and still no movement of the cylinder.

I’m perfectly willing to sacrifice the cap as I need to get inside the tank to see its condition to know the best option tankwise going forward and if I have to scrounge up the money for a new tank. I don’t like the Clark tanks so that isn’t an option at their price but I do have leads on both a TW tank and an XT225 tank but both will need paint that I’m not set up to do and I’ve spent too much already.

Thanks for any help/advice/free beer that you can give.
I suggest penetrating oil in the key slot & time. I mix my own using equal volumes of ATF, Diesel fuel & Acetone. Never used it on a fuel cap lock, but in many other places (including padlocks left out in the weather for years) it's outperformed anything the farm supply or auto parts stores offer. Best wishes!

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Drill out the lock if you don't care about the cap. Or try some PB Blaster penetrate, works great on rusty stuff up north in the salt belt.

You could heat it up and smack the lock with a hammer to knock the tumblers lose. But it's not really a good idea for a gas cap. Use this one at your own risk.
 

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1. turn cap max CW, then try key, again.
2. turn cap mid point between max CW and max CCW, then try key, again.
3. Repeat 1 and 2, pushing down on key.
4. Repeat 1 and 2, slightly pulling back on key
5. Repeat 3, tapping gently on key with mallet.
 

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Maybe try pushing down on the cap as you try to turn the key. If that doesn't work try cutting out the rubber seal if that is even possible just to get the cap loose then maybe you can twist it off.
 

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Lots of good advice above. Maybe fill the keyhole with the PB blaster and rotate the tank vertically, maybe some PB blaster will get on the seal from the inside. Or gallon jug of wd40, poor a little in petcock while it is open and swirl it around the seal. Then flip upside down and let it sit overnight. While it is upside down spray more PB blaster on the seal where the cap is. Shoot I forgot about that big safety collar on the tank. It wouldn't reach the gasket unless you put the whole gallon.
To keep caps from freezing up I put Vaseline on the cap seal. The caps seem to get really tight quite often.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks everyone, I tried a lot of what was mentioned including industrial grade penetrating oil and still no dice. There isn’t (and I don’t remember there ever being) any play in the cap even with channel locks. After a bit more spray and pray I decided to save the last of that can of oil and drill it. FYI “drill out the lock” on a gas cap is way easier to say than do. I had to put that 11/16ths bit all the way through the cap (yea more crud to clean out of the tank) and then still fiddle with the locking lug till it finally got out of the way.

So the tank is finally open but now it’s too dark to see much so I’ll take a look at the tank tomorrow after work. Since I have to work and miss opening day of deer season anyways I’ll try to get the new airbox hose on, change the oil and plug and install the new air filter and then use the old 2 liter bottle gas tank trick to fire it up. Hopefully she runs again. Haven’t heard the engine since I donated the CDI to a friend to get him back on the road a couple years ago.

Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Best wishes on this project. A lawn mower repair shop should have weedeater or mower tanks for the taking to use for fuel tank in a pinch.
Ha, I have a couple that could be used in the parts pile. Didn’t even think of that. The 2 liter (or smaller) is just an old bike trick to start and run an engine when you don’t have a tank yet. Since you have to squeeze the bottle you’d have to be drunk or crazy to try to ride with it. I just wanted to fire up the engine and make sure she’s good to go while I clean the tank and install the new triple tree, forks etc. Still plenty of reassembly and some cosmetic parts to pick up before she looks like a bike again. Soon...
 
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