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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here is a super simple mod that is also inexpensive - adding a 12V power outlet for powering/charging cellphones, cameras, GPS's, etc.

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This is the 12V power adapter that I got at Cycle Gear on sale for $9.99.

TRACKSIDE - 12 Volt Power Adapter - Other Parts - Parts - CycleGear - Cycle Gear

It is attached to the indicator light housing using 2" wide industrial strength Velcro that I got at the hardware store for $2.99/ft (you only need about 2").

Here are the installation steps (Note: These steps apply to a 2005 model year bike, other years may vary slightly).

-The adapter comes with a handlebar mount, this is not needed. Remove the 4 screws holding the curved plate and set aside.

-Remove the 2 screws holding the indicator light housing and pull the housing straight up to remove it from the bike.

-Using scissors, trim the Velcro to fit the indicator light housing and the 12V adapter mounting bracket. Attach the 12V adapter to the indicator light housing and remount the housing/adapter onto the bike.

-Ensuring that your fuel petcock is in the off position, remove the fuel line from the carb. If you have a California bike, also remove the hose from the tank to the emissions cannister.

-Remove seat.

-Remove the bolt holding the rear of tank to the frame, and remove tank by pulling the tank upwards towards the rear of the bike.

-Route the 12V adapter wiring alongside the throttle cables/wiring harness along the right side of the top member of the frame back to the battery. (Note: The wires on the 12V adapter were just barely long enough to reach the battery on my bike, just 1 extra inch would have made things easier but I was able to route it so it would work).

-Attach the wires to your battery. Connect the red wire to the positive (+) terminal and the black wire to the negative (-) terminal.

-Move the handlebars from the full left position to the full right position to ensure there is enough slack for the 12V adapter wiring.

-Remount the tank and reconnect the fuel line to the carb and, if applicable, reconnect the emissions hose to the cannister.

-Reinstall the seat.

-Done.
 

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hey brian,
so yours is a direct wiring and live all the time?
 

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Funny you mention that the wires on that Cyclegear 12v outlet are too short, I've read the same criticism so many times over it's almost ridiculous. How much more would it cost for them to make the wires on that outlet 2 feet longer? Seems like it would fit a lot more bikes and be a generally better product. Nobody seems happy with the current length of the wires, but they probably have a million of them already made with short wires sitting in a warehouse somewhere waiting to be sold, so there probably won't be a change anytime soon.
 

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Though I got the ideal of my power outlet placement from some other forum member somewhere here on the site, I put mine in the same place you did with the 3M Dual Lock velcro. That stuff works pretty good. I've never had my power outlet come loose from this mounting area. I do check it often however, but it's been sticking great.

I also use the 3M Dual Lock for mounting my video camera's to my helmet or handlebar mount and does a fine job. Sometimes I secure the camera with zip ties or tape just to make sure. Been holding well as long as I don't hit it with a tree branch or something. If I remember right, B-dub mentioned something about a camera that ejected itself from the velcro, so you do need to be careful. Of course a power outlet is not as expensive if it self ejected from the Dual Lock velcro:D
 

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Postus reduntata
 

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If you use a battery tender you can combine the fused battery tender wiring with the 12V outlet wiring. The tender leads will help give you the extra slack. We run this setup on our bikes. One fuse covers the tender and the outlet. Requires a bit of soldering and ours are shrinktubed and spiraled with tape which may be overkill, but here's a pic:


Braden, USB ports are great for GPS and electronic devices. Bit if your future needs include running high amp accessories such as a compressor they won't handle the load. Ideally you could run two. A USB type with a small fuse and dedicated to protect your GPS and electronics and a cigarette lighter type fused for high amps.
 

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Yeah, all those terminals were making me crazy. lol.

The length of the wires on some of these outlets has always been a problem for me not so much on the TW but on my bigger bikes. One thing I've found is that the ones sold in truck stops typically have as much as 6 feet of heavier gauge wire attached to them as opposed to the ones sold in auto parts stores and bike shops. Same item, about the same price, just longer, thicker wires.
 

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Today I stopped by CycleGear and bought the socket. It is still on sale for $9.99.
Got at an auto supply shop two mini fuse holders (In non-grounded applications, it is recommended to fuse both leads and near the battery). ImageUploadedByTapatalk1378943401.641325.jpg . Tomorrow I'll do the soldering.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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You don't have to fuse the negative ground lead. And you can ground it anywhere on the bike, it doesn't have to go back to the battery.
 

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When I first got the TW I had one of those battery tender chargers that came with a pig tail to wire direct to the battery and it hangs in the electric box under the side cover. I wired an end to my 12 volt power outlet to plug in to it. I don't know electric all that well but I have my suspicions the battery can handle a lot more draw than the actual bikes electrical system. I would highly recommend going direct and avoiding jumping the power from any of the bikes wires under the headlight cowl. I would also highly recommend fusing the hot wire for both the battery tender and the 12 volt outlet just in case the wire gets rubbed or shorts out under the tank.

On the auction site I am seeing some sellers with a 12 volt power outlet that also have the USB plug side by side so these might be an advantage to some.

garyL
 

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I used a cheapo automotive replacement one, which required a large hole for through mounting. It is mounted on the right side of the bike behind the foot peg, through the triangular piece of sheet metal in the frame. Nice thing is that it is directly below the solenoid, making wiring the hot lead a piece of cake. No ground lead is required with that mounting setup. Numerous people have asked if it is factory. It almost does look like it "belongs" in that spot.
 
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