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Discussion Starter #1
The TCI skidplate has come up in a few discussions lately. I had ours off the bike so I thought some of you would like to see what the best plate out there looks like.



Here's the assembled plate/ bash bars:







No issues with cutting the stock skidplate loop off your frame. Tom designed the plate to fit, be fully triangulated and easily removeable for oil changes and maintenence.



Two stout outriggers bolt to the front engine mounts:







Then the asembled plate slips over the frame in the rear, just like stock:









One allen bolt up front, just like the stock plate, then two 13mm bolts through the bars. Oil changes now take 20 seconds longer. Brag about it:



 

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Very nice! - this is very possibly the best looking and performing TW skidplate indeed.

HOWEVER it is also a rather costly item.




BTW - Excuse my ignorance but what exactly is the Camo item and plastic pipe arrangment?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Very nice! - this is very possibly the best looking and performing TW skidplate indeed.

HOWEVER it is also a rather costly item.




BTW - Excuse my ignorance but what exactly is the Camo item and plastic pipe arrangment?


Oh. That's a supercharger




Actually, it's the California emissions canister. Basically just a can of charcoal to contain fuel vapors,
 

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Hm. Outriggers you say? My bars bolted directly to the downtube, thus I had to put the plate on completely, then the bars, making it a bit difficult.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hm. Outriggers you say? My bars bolted directly to the downtube, thus I had to put the plate on completely, then the bars, making it a bit difficult.


We had some issues with the prototype, then took the bike back to Tom and he redesigned the mounts and added a bit of exhaust clearance up front for easier removal. I think you got yours in between changes, and at the time I was too lame to figure out Photobucket.



Bike-stopping hit from 10mph, two-up. If you'd been there you'd never believe this was the only damage, cuz i couldn't. Saved me a motor, what's that worth?:





 

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Nicely done LB. I've got several underlines with my TCI listed on my wishlist. Just has to wait it's turn. We ride in the most horrible rocks you can imagine and I dread a topple into them.

Thanks for the great post/pics!



Bag
 

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Hm. Outriggers you say? My bars bolted directly to the downtube, thus I had to put the plate on completely, then the bars, making it a bit difficult.


Hey Assquatch, You should think about upgrading to a newer, more convienent model, and I would be happy to help mitigate the cost of that by purchasing your used prototype . . .




Bag
 

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Hey Assquatch, You should think about upgrading to a newer, more convienent model, and I would be happy to help mitigate the cost of that by purchasing your used prototype . . .




Bag


You know, I'll consider it. If Tdub's ever blow up in popularity, it could be some rare thing someday, kinda like a turbo for a CB550.
 

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Thanks lizard. That thing looks awesome and pretty hardcore. Time to start saving up...
 

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$240+shipping and a 2-3 week wait?



Man, I am in the wrong business



If you can weld alum and steel, once the jigs are done and "paid off" from the profit, you only have time and materials left really... not a lot of materials in a TW skidplate, but maybe this guy's time is worth a lot of money?



No offense meant to TCi, and I am not affiliated with any competitors
 

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Im in college now getting an associates degree in welding so i can make stuff for my bikes.. In a couple years when I get really good I will start selling custom TW parts as a side job/hobby.
 

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Okay, so I just got my TCI skid plate and i'm having trouble with the mounting. I hope lizrdbrth is still around for questions




My problem is that while the left side (shifter side) seems pretty straight forward, the right side is a huge mystery as to how the bracket mounts to the frame.



Are they both on the lower frame mount bolt? The left side seems to line up that way, but i can't find a position for the right to fit properly from there.



Also, i tightened the left side down to where it was originally, and i spun the mount right off the bolt. I was able to bend it back in shape okay, but I'm worried that the frame mount bolts will loosen up since they can't be torqued quit as tightly with the bracket on there. Is that a problem?



thanks to anyone who can help me.



BTW, I ordered the light guard too, and it fits just fine with the cycle rack mounted on front. looks really great.





Dan
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Make sure you have the right stuff first.



The left outrigger is straight and the right should have about a 1/2" dogleg offset to it. The left mounts to two bolts and the right mounts to the lower of the two front engine bolts.



You should have received a longer mount bolt and a Nylock nut.



When you first install the plate leave the sideguard bolts just loose enough to manipulate the alignment as needed. Once everything is aligned and tightened it will remain so forever and dropping the plate for oil changes will be as easy as I've made it sound.



I'm not sure what you meant by "spun the mount off the bolt". Fill me in.



In my experience you can call Tom directly any time cuz he gives a rip about his product and his customers.
 

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Make sure you have the right stuff first.



The left outrigger is straight and the right should have about a 1/2" dogleg offset to it. They both mount to the same bolt, which is the lower of the two front engine bolts.



You should have received a longer mount bolt and a Nylock nut.



When you first install the plate leave the sideguard bolts just loose enough to manipulate the alignment as needed. Once everything is aligned and tightened it will remain so forever and dropping the plate for oil changes will be as easy as I've made it sound.



I'm not sure what you meant by "spun the mount off the bolt". Fill me in.



In my experience you can call Tom directly any time cuz he gives a rip about his product and his customers.


1. Yes, I have the right dog leg mount.



Not sure about the nylock bolt. Have to go back and look.



2. So you said "engine bolts." do you mean the lower bolt that actually goes through the front of the engine assembly? Dang, I probably used the wrong bolt! I tried it on the lower FRAME bolt, the bottom bolt that DOESN'T go through the engine.



Spun off:



so the left frame mount, the straight one, has notch out of the side as opposed to a complete hole going through it. I'm not explaining that well, but bear with me.

I decided to see how easily i could tighten the bolt again even though the instructions clearly say not to tighten untill everything is in place. I tightened it down and the notch worked it's way off the bolt. I wondered if that would be a problem to not be albe to tighten the bolts as tightly as they were without the brackets on. Probably not a problem as long as I keep an eye on it.





thanks for the help. I 'll review my hardware inventory.





dan
 

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Okay, looking at your pics, it has to be the bottom frame bolt. Think I figured this out. I was closer than I thought.



Thanks! I'll let you know how it turns out.



dan
 

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Okay, I followed the above directions and everything mounted perfectly....





EXCEPT now the front mount hole in the skid plate is positioned about a 1/4 of an inch too high to be able to get the bolt in the hole. That's the original single bolt that holds the stock skid plate in place. I'm inclined to just leave it off for now unless someone thinks that compromises stabliltiy. I'm not planning to go over bolders any time soon.



dan
 

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Okay, I followed the above directions and everything mounted perfectly....





EXCEPT now the front mount hole in the skid plate is positioned about a 1/4 of an inch too high to be able to get the bolt in the hole. That's the original single bolt that holds the stock skid plate in place. I'm inclined to just leave it off for now unless someone thinks that compromises stabliltiy. I'm not planning to go over bolders any time soon.



dan


Usually they come with a replacement allen head bolt. Can't remember the pitch for it though. In any case, some wiggling where it hangs in the back can usually help line it up. Just loosen the case guards a bit maybe and tighten when it's lined up. If you can get the threads to take at an angle, usually it will straighten as you tighten it up. I'd say the case guards are just keeping it from moving enough.
 

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Thanks. I'll need to change the oil soon, so I can wait until then to adjust it. I won't be doing any trails before then. It actually seems like it has about 90% of the stability with just the outriggers attached. Those are huge bolts compared to that little one on the front.





dan
 

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I just installed my new TCI skid plate, after sizing it, calling the company with "doesn't fit the front screw hole", being asked to send photo, taking pics and messing with my photo computer program unsuccessfully, reading this thread again, and seeing "No issues with cutting the stock skidplate loop off your frame." posted under lizardbreath's first photo.



That was the tip that got everything moving again. TCI should take note and spell it out in the instructions. I cut the loop midway and bent it back out of the way. It's between the skidplate and the engine, so won't hang up on anything. Simple fix.



Thanks for posting such a fine tutorial with accompanying photos lzrdbrth.



BTW, the skid-plate with engine guards is solid on the bike and offers another level of protection to the engine. For something that isn't OEM, it fits like it was designed by cad.



Pricey but nice. I give it four and a half stars.
 

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I just installed my new TCI skid plate, after sizing it, calling the company with "doesn't fit the front screw hole", being asked to send photo, taking pics and messing with my photo computer program unsuccessfully, reading this thread again, and seeing "No issues with cutting the stock skidplate loop off your frame." posted under lizardbreath's first photo.



That was the tip that got everything moving again. TCI should take note and spell it out in the instructions. I cut the loop midway and bent it back out of the way. It's between the skidplate and the engine, so won't hang up on anything. Simple fix.



Thanks for posting such a fine tutorial with accompanying photos lzrdbrth.



BTW, the skid-plate with engine guards is solid on the bike and offers another level of protection to the engine. For something that isn't OEM, it fits like it was designed by cad.



Pricey but nice. I give it four and a half stars.




Are you saying that you have to bend/cutoff the rear mounting "loop"?.....if so,why does TCI have the connecting "tab" then?.
 
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