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Discussion Starter #1
My new bike came with an aftermarket dual sport light kit and it was working good all lights on off high beams and blinkers blinking except for the kill switch. I fixed the kill switch and then the blinkers started acting funny. They’ll light up when engaged but do not blink. At some point something shorted when I was working on the electrical and the fuse from battery blew.

I replaced that but the blinkers still aren’t working right. I think I may have blown the little flasher relay.

How can I test this with a multimeter? If I use ohms and check the two wires coming out it cycles through various numbers then goes back to 1 which is base line ie circuit not connected.

I read somewhere that any resistance showing up means it’s bad and then somewhere else that there’s a number to look for specific to each relay. Without any specs on this relay I’m not sure what to look for. Maybe I’ll just order a cheap china one off ebay and hope it fixes it.
 

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Assume you have adequate blinker fluid?:p blink.jpeg

Part of solving what is wrong is determining that all circuit parts are compatible and properly wired together with adequate grounds.
Are the dual sport turn signals filament or L.E.D.s?
Is the flasher relay an OEM unit for filament bulbs or modern digital circuitry for diodes?
Old fashioned thermistor based flashers for filament bulbs need a current load to cycle on and off, with the cycle rate a function of circuit impedance. You would likely need to feed 12v in with a load like from a filament bulb in order to detect the switching cycle with a multimeter.
Should you elect to just replace the flasher relay as Chip suggests I would recommend buying a modern digital flasher. Exact match for terminals and mounting tabs would be optimal but if not it is not hard to modify what is availalbe to fit the WR.
My adjustable rate digital flasher was under $4 from China but local Napa or equivalent auto parts stores should have comparable units for under $10 unless Island pricing adds a premium.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Assume you have adequate blinker fluid?
View attachment 196610

Part of solving what is wrong is determining that all circuit parts are compatible and properly wired together with adequate grounds.
Are the dual sport turn signals filament or L.E.D.s?
Is the flasher relay an OEM unit for filament bulbs or modern digital circuitry for diodes?
Old fashioned thermistor based flashers for filament bulbs need a current load to cycle on and off, with the cycle rate a function of circuit impedance. You would likely need to feed 12v in with a load like from a filament bulb in order to detect the switching cycle with a multimeter.
Should you elect to just replace the flasher relay as Chip suggests I would recommend buying a modern digital flasher. Exact match for terminals and mounting tabs would be optimal but if not it is not hard to modify what is availalbe to fit the WR.
My adjustable rate digital flasher was under $4 from China but local Napa or equivalent auto parts stores should have comparable units for under $10 unless Island pricing adds a premium.
Thanks Chip and Fred!

Topped up on blinker fluid ? still no blink ?

I ordered one off ebay. I don’t have led turns but could only find the one for those so hopefully it works!. I think something shorted since I blew a fuse but we’ll see!

Still can’t get the blasted bike to idle right. Going slow and off throttle is a nightmare.

Carb rebuild kit otw also so hope that helps. Gonna check cam chain hasn’t slipped a tooth which is possible and could explain the backfiring when backing off throttle.

It does however rip the bajjjeeeeeeezus at 1/4 to wide open. Good Lord I feel sorry for anything in a rock throwers distance cause she roosts soooooo easy in every gear.

50cc Makes a serious difference ? I’m getting used to a completely different machine and missing the stable steady TW already haha!
 

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Possibly lean due to vacuum leak or partially clogged pilot? Doing the carb rebuild should help but why not test for vacuum leak first with a spray of a flammable aerosol around intake and carb?
 

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The circuit for the flashers is always powered when the bike is on. What you are seeing on the multi-meter is what a flasher relay does. The second you switch the ignition key on, you are supplying power to it and it is going to start this timed on/off switching when given a path through the lights to ground. (the old relays based on the load, the new LED flashers based off it's internal circuit timer regardless of load) Hope that helps you some. Putting an ohmmeter on it is also putting a voltage across it same as if you turned your blinker on (and that will even vary from meter to meter as to how much voltage and change the rate it will cycle on an older one).

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/tusk-l.e.d.-flasher-relay-p this is one I used and the connector is a match for the TW. Was able to mount it beside the little toolkit after drilling a couple small holes and securing it with some tie wraps.
FlasherRelay.JPG

Aside from this, I don't see how this particular component can short out your system to the point you are blowing a 20 amp fuse. Even if your flasher relay stayed on non-stop, your electrical system should handle the load of two blinkers on all day. You've got something on your bike that is giving a path to ground before it is reaching the end component/system it is supposed to power.

I would focus first on anything you were working on prior to blowing out the fuse, and if nothing obvious shows up, follow the directions in the second post in this thread: https://www.tw200forum.com/forum/technical-help/65822-electric-nonsense.html
 

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Agree r.e. logic and method for tracking down the short circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks guys

I got the relay which was wired backwards fixed it and it’s working perfect.

I attest the short and fuse blow to some wires from head lamp that weren’t hooked up to the speedo touching something they shouldn’t or each other. Or the wires from the kill switch shorting. Anyway it’s all going good which means I gotta get it running right so I can get a plate on it and ride!

I tried the vacuum test and it didn’t seem to show although the rubber boot from engine to carb is old and cracking slightly on the outside. The inside looks pretty good honestly.

I’ll pull it and look closer and probably silicone it for now.

Carb rebuild kit is here!

So

Do I spend the weekend working on the bike?

Or do I take the newly purchased 94 4x4 4runner to the west side test side and take a couple days camping on the beach and in the mountains?

Just need a hitch and rack and can tote the moto along with.
 

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Before you turned the flasher relay wiring around, I hope you did the right thing and switched to full synthetic blinker fluid. The conventional stuff gums up and the blinkers stay on.
 
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