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Discussion Starter #1
I'm not looking for any help on that issue, I know the only way to get over it is to replace that piece of paper Yamaha used as base gasket.



I just felt like sharing my disappointment. Last weekend, in an effort to slow the leak, I followed some advices I red here and retorqued the head bolts. Not by much, just 1/32 of a turn when possible. Guess what happened? The small leak that was first located to the front left side developed to the entire left side of the head!!! I thought that the oil was just "migrating" to the back of the head and cleaned the thing yesterday. I went for a 30 minutes ride this morning and checked the head again to see that the side and back (the gasket) was effectively leaking!




My attempt to reduce the problem just worsened it! I have to change the base gasket sooner than I expected and I don't have much time on my hand for the next couple weeks. I'll have to keep a good eye on the oil level (I was already checking it before each ride) for sure.



I'm mainly disappointed because when I bought my TW, I thought that because it was almost new, I would not have to do any wrenching but regular maintenance. It really "(*&/ me off to have to take that head of.



Thank you for letting me share my feeling with you. I feel a little better already.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you ronnydog for the suggestion, but I'm not sure I want to compromise the reliability of the engine, which is one of the reason I went for a TW.
 

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Usually it's the base gasket that leaks, not the head gasket. If yours is leaking at the head area, take a look at your valve covers/o-rings and make sure they are tight and sealing...oil can weep out of those and travel down your head/cylinder and make it look like a different leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you for correcting me pmtg. It's the base gasket that is leaking, of course. English isn't my first language, so I sometimes mix terms or words.
 

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If you replace that base gasket, make sure you get a metal one, not another paper gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Don't worry kj7687. I've red the DIY thread many times since I bought the bike (at least 4-5 times) in order to help me to accept the fact that I'll have to remove the head and cylinder of an almost new TW.
 

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Is there any benefit to the Wiseco piston instead of re-using the stocker?


Higher compression, more power, premium fuel.



Retorquing isn't "1/16 turn". Retorquing is using a torque wrench, slightly loosening the bolts, then retightening to proper maximum torque, in the proper sequence described in the manual.
 

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If you want to take a chance of adding to your frustration try some of this stuff:







After spraying it on 3 or 4 times without success it started to accumulate. When the engine was warm the stuff was kind of soft and gooey so I pressed it on to the junction of the cylinder and case. This greatly reduced the amount of leakage. On a long ride now, about 100 miles or more, it only leaks a couple of drops which is just enough to put off changing the gasket until next winter. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm sorry I did not use the right word again. I should have said that I just tightened the bolts on the left side. I'm not a mechanic by any mean. I've been schooling myself for about two years on motorcycle engines (Japanese 4T only). I'm glad I was able to disassemble the whole top end of my CM250 last winter and put it back together, following the Clymer and shop manuals step by step. That's where I'm at for now. I still have many mistakes to make and I must confess that I knew that I was about to make one by not using proper torque specs and tools on the head bolts. I was aware that if you squeeze a gasket too much, well... it's an almost guaranteed leak. I was just hoping that "maybe" this time it would be different and the leak would slow down a bit. I was wrong. Physic laws I guess...



Thank you for your suggestion Tony, but I'll be changing that base gasket in a couple of weeks. The leak is not that bad and I can live with it until I properly fix it.
 

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I'm sorry I did not use the right word again. I should have said that I just tightened the bolts on the left side. I'm not a mechanic by any mean. I've been schooling myself for about two years on motorcycle engines (Japanese 4T only). I'm glad I was able to disassemble the whole top end of my CM250 last winter and put it back together, following the Clymer and shop manuals step by step. That's where I'm at for now. I still have many mistakes to make and I must confess that I knew that I was about to make one by not using proper torque specs and tools on the head bolts. I was aware that if you squeeze a gasket too much, well... it's an almost guaranteed leak. I was just hoping that "maybe" this time it would be different and the leak would slow down a bit. I was wrong. Physic laws I guess...



Thank you for your suggestion Tony, but I'll be changing that base gasket in a couple of weeks. The leak is not that bad and I can live with it until I properly fix it.
OK, now make sure you tell the dealer to order a 2010 or new style gasket.... They are verrrrrrrrrrrrry different than this junk paper ones,,,,,, My buddy got brave and did it./.. No leaks so far... OMM<
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I did not tell him anything. I just handled him a list of part numbers. I made sure I put the 2010 base gasket number.
 
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