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Discussion Starter #1
So did ya guess what I did?

Yep...I drilled out the wrong part of my carburetor. I thought I identified the welch plug covering it, but I found something else under the plug. Fortunately I stopped drilling before I saw brass. When I pulled the plug out, a C-clip came with it which scared me. A C-clip and a green coated metal shaft in the center.I turned the green center and it flips open the throttle and springs back....not a screw. It appears to be the other side of the throttle. Everything seems to be working fine. Did I do any real damage? Is there anything I should do to correct this? Or forget about it and drill the right spot?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
teikei-mv-28-manual-choke-plunger_4-1000x1000.jpg

Here's a carb for sake of description...I drilled out the plug under the choke. I'm sure it's the other side of the throttle cable shaft, and guess it's a c-clip held plug, used as a stop for assembly. I'm thinking I should grease the bottom only and JB weld putty the hole closed?
 

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Ooops.
Trail Woman, Not sure if we will ever let you live this one down. You could have easily said "Somebody I know drilled out this plug out ..." And we never would have been the wiser.
Actually honesty pays a good reward plus future dividends.
Your lub and glue repair plan sounds good. I would first look to see if the cir-clip was needed to limit axial end play that could bind the shaft somehow. Replicate something to limit green center movement if binding might otherwise occur. Not nearly as criticall a mistake as some of us have made.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That's a relief to hear Fred.

I poked and prodded at it and ran it up and down the road. It seems like the parts are all secure and operating what appears to be 100%.

I locked the shop and I'm not too proud of how deep I drilled it to take pictures but I'm just glad I stopped when I did. I drilled into the green coated shaft which is how I know it's only green coating, but I can clean up the wound and seal it. Sometimes I'm not as afraid to mod things as I should be.

It freaked me out at first because the stock carb is not cheap and I wasn't too crazy about getting into jetting an aftermarket carb to save money.
 

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if the cir-clip was needed to limit axial end play that could bind the shaft somehow.
The only thing I would add is to make sure the butterfly aka "throttle plate" is held centered and not rubbing the edges of the carburetors throat. Any metal worn off from rubbing will get sucked right into the cylinder. Maybe that piece you drilled out held the shaft and consequently the throttle plate centered in the throat centered so it doesn't rub the sides. I can't say without seeing what your working with first hand.. I know you're smart enough to identify if it's an issue once you look close. Interested in hearing the outcome I am..
 

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Hey, what do I know?
You do know where to drill now though?:p

Just look at it as one more customized feature in you bike. I'ld give it your quick repair, finish adjusting the mixture screw, then go back to getting that new XR200 ready to rip.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You do know where to drill now though?:p
It looks like it's underneath. On the engine manifold end? I'm making sure to confirm this time around. It's not easy to find online. It looks like you loosen up the carb and rotate it to access the bottom.
 

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:icon_thumbright::icon_thumbright: Right you are....so you don't even need to see this picture, correct? bottom.jpg

I like these pictures with all the helpful terminology. inlet.jpg


rt side.jpg

Try as I might though I couldn't find one with the " Do Not Drill Here" Blind Plug identified.:rolleyes: side.jpg
 

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Trailwoman I just removed the plug on my 15 and I didn't even drill it. There is already a very small hole in the plug so I tried screwing a drywall screw into it which made the hole big enough that I could firmly tighten a #6 or #8 into it then pry it out with needle nose pliers. The plug is only about 1/8" thick so its hard to drill without hitting the mixture screw and driving it in unless you put a stop on your drill bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
For some reason I can't see PeterB's or Fred's posts on page two but I found it anyways. Thanks for the pointers.

As for the shallow depth of the pilot screw you can grind the screw used to remove the plug so it's not as pointy and can grab more without the risk of damaging the pilot screw.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
OK... (deep breath). I tried to access the proper location twice and got frustrated and put everything back. I think adjusting the valves was easier having a video tutorial to guide me.

Is there a trick to getting access to the pilot screw? Because I disconnected the fuel and manifold tube, loosed the hose clamps and twisted it till I scratched the valve cover. From what I saw the only way the get at it is to disconnect the throttle cables and that looks like a PITA. Or remove the exhaust pipe.
 

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I pulled the seat and tank then I tilted the top of the carb towards the right side of the bike with a 2x4 under the kick stand just to make it easier to get at. If you get on your bike and start riding to my place right now I will do it for you next weekend.
 

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the alum plug does not need any drilling I use a drywall screw and a shorty JIS (Phillips #2) and gently screw the tip of the drywall screw until it gets a little bite then wiggle it side to side until the plug comes loose

The plug has about a 1/16" hole in it from the factory so you have to turn the drywall screwa half dozen (or more) turns shaving off a little soft aluminum until the point of the screw can get enough "bite" to stand on it's own

if you remove the bowl and float pin I also ream out the pressed in float pin (one side only is press fit) I use a 3/32" drill bit with the hex shaft designed for makita type hand drills, I never use or need any power tool just a drop of oil and rotate the bit with your fingers back and forth until the hole is reamed through

All carb materials are very soft no need for power drills
 

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Trail Woman- Way back in 2004 I drilled out the plug under the choke knob like you did. Upon discovering that there wasn't an air mixture screw inside I went to my local hardware store and found a grey colored soft rubber tube cover (shaped like half of a pill capsul). I glued in on over carb shaft. To this day no one every discovered the goof. (Even TWBrian missed it). I drilled the other TW correctly.

I feel so much better now with this off my chest.
 

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OK... (deep breath). I tried to access the proper location twice and got frustrated and put everything back. I think adjusting the valves was easier having a video tutorial to guide me.

Is there a trick to getting access to the pilot screw? Because I disconnected the fuel and manifold tube, loosed the hose clamps and twisted it till I scratched the valve cover. From what I saw the only way the get at it is to disconnect the throttle cables and that looks like a PITA. Or remove the exhaust pipe.
I remove the throttle cables and the valve cover in order to rotate the carb enough to get access to the mixture screw. Take a photo of the carb/throttle cables before removal so you will know where they go. After doing it a few times it become routine - not hard at all. ( I scratched my valve cover the first time too:embarrassed:).
 

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throttle cables are very simple to remove just a 10mm wrench and they only go on one way so nothing to remember. loosen the 10mm's and remove the cable housing from the brackets then it easier to remove the cable ends from the actuator. reverse that order to install. it's also a great (and easy) time to adjust your throttle play

I would simply remove the carb I'm to old to be down on my knees begging the TW gawds

if you have the fuel lines off, clamps loose and the throttle cables removed just pop the carb out the left side it's not hard
 
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