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I recently removed my carb to do some mods. When I was done installing everything back on the bike, the throttle doesn’t snap back like before. I have to assume when I reattached the throttle assembly (for lack of a better word, see attached pic) back on the carb, I didn’t get the spring back in correctly. The throttle comes back a little when I let go of it, but not all the way. Again, I assume it’s the spring because I didn’t mess with any of the throttle adjustments. Thanks for any advise.
 

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Gotta be the spring. It’s a notorious bugger. I believe I got one side seated and used a small gaff hook style pick to wind and slip the other side onto the tab. Make sure you have the white plastic washer/spacer installed properly. Stick at it you’ll get it.
 

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Hey, Mr. Beardwacker...

Not trying to be a smart-A but it's often very helpful to snap some pix before & during disassembly for future reference. Or even just a sketch.
That thing is a PITA, even if you've done it before!
I had the same problem the first time I removed my carby.

I think I may know your brother...Tallywacker? :rolleyes:

PS - Welcome to the Forum!
 

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I’m assuming the spacer goes on the outside of the spring directly against the throttle assembly?
That is correct. It sits between the spring and the assembly. I tried looking at it on the parts diagram and it’s not broken out separately (source = Partzilla) Which means it’s not sold separately. It can only be purchased with an entire new carb. Or from someone’s used parts bin. Or fabricated. Another one of those “treat it like gold” parts. One more reason to not get ham-fisted when reassembling that spring.

I do recall there was cursing involved in the reassembly. Which helped a lot.
 

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No, I didn’t monkey with any of the throttle adjustment. I only took the 10 mm nut off of the throttle assembly that attaches to the carburetor.
 

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The cables appear to be adjusted too tight. There should be a little slack in each when the throttle is at rest. Assuming you have the spring placed and wound properly I would loosen up a bit on the adjusters.

GaryL
 

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Hey Beardwacker, mine is currently in the shop, should be back in a few days. Recently, I changed the main jet about 6 times. Next I have to do the idle. I'll shoot some pics for you and how to get that spring back on with sufficient tension... if you have a couple of days.
 

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Fastest way I could find to reattach throttle to carb

Hey Beardwacker,

Sorry it took a bit longer than a couple of days... here we go:

First, prepare locking pliers with a loop of wire with somewhat slippery insulation, 3 to 4 inches of wire should do:
1.jpg

Here's my starting situation for the carb:
2.jpg

Put on the spring, straight end goes on first, pointing to the 4 o'clock position:
3.jpg

Then put on the nylon washer, the larger flat side away from the carb and spring:
4.jpg

Thread the wire loop over the spring hook and holding the locking pliers, pull the spring hook clockwise until the hook is at the 6 o'clock position.
5.jpg

Important: While holding the spring that way, turn the carb flap axle counter-clockwise to close the flap to idle position!

Then put the throttle pulley wheel onto the carb flap axle. It should go right on with the tab on the wheel engaging the spring hook right in the 6 o'clock position. Sorry couldn't shoot picture of this; lost my 3rd hand this morning.

Put on the carb flap axle nut and hand tighten:
6.jpg

Release the locking pliers and grab just one end of the wire with it:
7.jpg

Pull out the wire.

Finally, tighten the carb flap axle nut with an adjustable wrench while holding the throttle in the open position at the handle bar:
8.jpg

Cheers!
 

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Hey Beardwacker,

Sorry it took a bit longer than a couple of days... here we go:

First, prepare locking pliers with a loop of wire with somewhat slippery insulation, 3 to 4 inches of wire should do:
View attachment 189224

Here's my starting situation for the carb:
View attachment 189226

Put on the spring, straight end goes on first, pointing to the 4 o'clock position:
View attachment 189228

Then put on the nylon washer, the larger flat side away from the carb and spring:
View attachment 189230

Thread the wire loop over the spring hook and holding the locking pliers, pull the spring hook clockwise until the hook is at the 6 o'clock position.
View attachment 189232

Important: While holding the spring that way, turn the carb flap axle counter-clockwise to close the flap to idle position!

Then put the throttle pulley wheel onto the carb flap axle. It should go right on with the tab on the wheel engaging the spring hook right in the 6 o'clock position. Sorry couldn't shoot picture of this; lost my 3rd hand this morning.

Put on the carb flap axle nut and hand tighten:
View attachment 189234

Release the locking pliers and grab just one end of the wire with it:
View attachment 189236

Pull out the wire.

Finally, tighten the carb flap axle nut with an adjustable wrench while holding the throttle in the open position at the handle bar:
View attachment 189238

Cheers!

Great post! Thanks. I was always scared to remove that nut. Plus it is on so darn tight.
 

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Great photos and explanation of an effective technique.
Only thing I do different is use a very fine loop of steel wire that stays permanently on the return spring. About 5/8ths of an inch long, the twisted end dangles below the throttle wheel just far enough to be grabbed with locking forceps, hemostats or just fine needle nose pliers. That way the wire for winding up the spring is always there.
 

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Great photos and explanation of an effective technique, wersonst
Only thing I do different is use a very fine loop of steel wire that stays permanently on the return spring. About 5/8ths of an inch long, the twisted end dangles below the throttle wheel just far enough to be grabbed with locking forceps, hemostats or just fine needle nose pliers. That way the wire for winding up the spring is always there.
 

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Just curious. Why would you take the pulley off anyways?
I wondered about that myself Peter. I have cleaned at least a dozen of these carbs and never have had a reason to remove that metal part.

GaryL
 

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I removed mine so it would fit in my ultrasonic cleaner, but yeah not really necessary unless you’re swapping it over to a different carb, which I’ve also done.
 

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I found removing the throttle wheel to be an acceptable alternative to loosening throttle cables when performing simple carburetor work. Detaching wheel and cable bracket then makes carb assembly that much smaller to snake out of bike frame past turn signal flasher and kick starter if carb needs removal. Has advantage of removing any guesswork as to correct cable re-attachment and adjustment.
 

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I wondered about that myself Peter. I have cleaned at least a dozen of these carbs and never have had a reason to remove that metal part.

GaryL
Good question. My purpose was to re-jet. So I had to turn the carb by 90 degrees to have full access to the bottom. The carb does not turn by 90 degrees without taking off the cable brace; I have the scratch on the intake valve tappet cover to prove it :-(
 
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