I have an 89' Tw and so far I have added :
1. Renthal Handlebars (and grips)
2. Kenda K270 front tire and tw34 rear
3. UFO plastics Yz fender (custom high mount)
4. New sprockets
5. Moose racing Bark busters with red plastic kit
6. Renthal Grip donuts and pro grip lever covers (both in red)
7. Custom headlight guard
8. New headlight shroud decal
9. Red oil fill cap
10. Outlaw yz250f folding shifter
11. All Balls Racing Fork seals
12. Quick release seat bolts
Up next:
1. Pro cycle rear shock spring
2. Pro cycle fork spring
3. Lizrdbrth (Remake) Oil cooler
4. DG exhaust
5. Ricochet header pipe guard
6. Ricochet skid plate
I have an 89' Tw and so far I have added :
1. Renthal Handlebars (and grips0
2. Kenda K270 front tire and tw34 rear
3. UFO plastics Yz fender (custom high mount)
4. New sprockets
5. Moose racing Bark busters with red plastic kit
6. Renthal Grip donuts and pro grip lever covers (both in red)
Up next:
1. Pro cycle rear shock spring
2. Pro cycle fork solution kit
3. moose racing headlight guard
4. D.I.D. O-ring chain
I will upload pics soon.
Any suggestions would be great, especially a cheaper way to go about the rear suspension.
Define "cheaper". I've got about 100 pounds of TW shock experiments on my Burt Munro "sacrifice" shelf, all yielding varying results. If you're lighter or heavier or place different demands on the bike than the next guy his answer to the problem may not work for you. I like to mess with stuff like that but I consider it a huge part of what I get back from the hobby, and if it doesn't work out I'm willing to start all over. But in the end it's far from cheap.
I'm not sure what your weight and ultimate goals with the bike are, but the straight rate springs now being offered by ProCycle are theoretically a step in the right direction. I wouldn't give up all hope for the stock shock body until the results start trickling in
Most of the nasty "hit" and lack of control in the rear comes from the progressive spring on our shock.
Define "cheaper". I've got about 100 pounds of TW shock experiments on my Burt Munro "sacrifice" shelf, all yielding varying results. If you're lighter or heavier or place different demands on the bike than the next guy his answer to the problem may not work for you. I like to mess with stuff like that but I consider it a huge part of what I get back from the hobby, and if it doesn't work out I'm willing to start all over. But in the end it's far from cheap.
I'm not sure what your weight and ultimate goals with the bike are, but the straight rate springs now being offered by ProCycle are theoretically a step in the right direction. I wouldn't give up all hope for the stock shock body until the results start trickling in
Most of the nasty "hit" and lack of control in the rear comes from the progressive spring on our shock.
I need something better for more offroad and hard trail riding. But I don't have too much money to spend on the shock/spring. Something more solid for sure
I got no dawg in this fight. I now have an extended swingarm and an entirely new set of rules. Was just a headsup that a Frankenshock could end up costing as much or more than the new spring when all's said and done, particularly if your first attempt doesn't quite get you where you want to be.
A lot of shock and spring combos have appeared on these pages over the years. Regardless of the shock body used the one thing that the most successful ones have in common is a straight rate spring, whether purchased new or pilfered from another (usually heavier) bike. Because you're on a budget that's probably where your greatest gains will be realized.
ProCycle has taken all the fun out of things by providing springs of a known spring rate, height and diameter. I was just suggesting that if you have the luxury of time to see how they're working out for others you could either pop for one of theirs or attempt to duplicate the results with pilfered springs.
Whatever spring you come up with it can later be adapted to a "better"(?) shock body, if you're into it.
This likely will not be going too quick at all. I'm recently added an outlaw racing yz250f shifter, and I'm very pleased with that. Pics I will try to get later this week maybe. I'm planning on buying a kx250 by next spring. We will see how it goes.
I'm still sitting on the red ProCycle spring (so to speak) that I bought back when they were first added to the TW page. I'm slowly but surely getting parts together for a DIY compressor tool (and hopefully it works). So I'm crossing my fingers I'll get it done within this next week or two. I believe it was you asking for my opinion once I get it on. I almost said effit and took it in to have it swapped, but that's my last $200 allotted to the bike spending for a little while, and I'm trying to keep it set aside and ready to throw at lizrdbrth on a moment's notice for a cooler
I'm still sitting on the red ProCycle spring (so to speak) that I bought back when they were first added to the TW page. I'm slowly but surely getting parts together for a DIY compressor tool (and hopefully it works). So I'm crossing my fingers I'll get it done within this next week or two. I believe it was you asking for my opinion once I get it on. I almost said effit and took it in to have it swapped, but that's my last $200 allotted to the bike spending for a little while, and I'm trying to keep it set aside and ready to throw at lizrdbrth on a moment's notice for a cooler
I also was wondering how the new ProCycle springs will work out. In the mean time I am doing a little, sperminten. The TW 200 shock has three grooves that allow for a preload adjustment. Liz has mentioned that the minor change in spring preload is not much. So, I took it a bit further. Frist I set the wire ring on the groove that gave the most preload. In conjuction with that. I made a 1/4" spacer and put it between the spring and the bottom spring seat. This added about 3/8" of preload. On the street, I liked the results. On the rough stuff, it beat the hell out of me! It was just to stiff. Back to the shop. I have moved the wire ring back to the middle groove and kept the 1/4" spacer in place. 1/4" pre load. this gives me 1.9" of race sag. I will ride it this way on the Roundup Reroute Ride this weekend and report back. When you remove your shock, don't "misplace" the lower mount cushions!! Thanks again Brian.
As promised, reporting back on my shock spring preload spermint. I rode the Cow Mountain Roundup Reroute Ride with the the NorCal group on Saturday with the 1/4" preload as discribed before. For me, it is a keeper. There is some give and take however. On pavement it is very stable and a big improvement. Mild off road is still a bit stiff. Where it worked the best was on the rough stuff. I gave it a good test on water bars at different speeds. Not once did it bottom out, where as it would have bottomed out many times before. I am going to keep it at this setting. For reference, I am generally a slow rider and about 220. Smaller people that want to try this, just move the spring clip first, that may be enough. Bigger guys might be better served as I first had it set up. I hope this helps.
I'm still sitting on the red ProCycle spring (so to speak) that I bought back when they were first added to the TW page. I'm slowly but surely getting parts together for a DIY compressor tool (and hopefully it works). So I'm crossing my fingers I'll get it done within this next week or two. I believe it was you asking for my opinion once I get it on. I almost said effit and took it in to have it swapped, but that's my last $200 allotted to the bike spending for a little while, and I'm trying to keep it set aside and ready to throw at lizrdbrth on a moment's notice for a cooler
They had (have) a few, but the cheaper McPhearson strut compressors they have, like the ones I rented from Auto Zone, won't fit between the coils like they should unless you put is some work/grindage on the compressor hooks, which then make them a little scary to work with. Same with the Single Action compressor they have - not sure if the hooks will fit, not sure of the hook fitment if they do, and $70.
Now that I got most of the drilling out of the way (such a pita with bad chuck/key and cheap hole saws), I just need to get off my arse and pull the shock off the bike to give this a go:
Awhile back I had floated out some of the preliminary photos of the prototype version of some of the "quick release" seat bolts I had come up with. Anyhow....recently finished up a batch of them, and figured I'd float these out to the TW200 Forum folks for 'first dibs' so to speak. Also, in...
Hey Guys...
Do any of you have any direct knowledge or experience with this "Tusk" product, or with the brand, in general?
It looks well made and the price is right.
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/tusk-folding-shift-lever-p?s=1577187
Anybody successful yet jetting a 2019 TW200?
Although it's just a camp bike right now I still would like
to ride it this winter. It won't run off-choke presently.
I've jetted all my racing dirt bikes in the past 50-years but too old and lazy now to experiment.
Thanks
Domenic
So to the best of my knowledge, tinted headlights arent legal in Pennsylvania but I wanted to get some protection for the plastic lense on JNS headlight unit. I always liked the look of yellow fog lights so thought I'd try that out. I think it looks pretty cool honestly but since it isnt legal...
Man, a guy here in Washington used to own a tw200, bought the pipe and put a few miles on it, feels bad for his neighbors, puts it on Craigslist for 150, pretty much brand new.
For those of you with the DGv2... are you using quiet inserts? Which ones are you using? How do the insert overall...
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