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Discussion Starter #1
Pro-Cycle sells a rejet kit for the TW...

"We all love our Tdub's, but the stock jetting leaves much to be desired! Here is a Jet Kit for your stock TK carburetor to improve your throttle response. Included in the Kit are a wide range of main jets to cover any setup, one Pilot Jet, one Jet Needle, and five Needle Shims. If you have added an exhaust system or ride at higher elevations, this is a great way to tune your Tdub for your needs."

Has anyone done this to a bone-stock TW (no AM exhaust or airbox mods)?
Is it as big an improvement as implied?
Did your mileage suffer because of it?
Is this worth while?
 

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I've rejetted 3 bikes this year for myself and yes it made a noticeable difference in all 3, KLR, DR, and XR 650's. They jet them way to lean from the factory to meet emissions. Which causes them to run hot and pop/backfire in the exhaust. Couldn't say about mileage as I never checked before jetting. I would assume the TW's are the same.
 

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I never noticed a lot of power out of correctly jetting my 2013 TW200, but I did improve start performance, idle, and throttle response. Especially throttle right off idle. Tap the start button, or half a kick on the added kick starter is all she takes to light up. Choke just to start when warm and no more than 30 seconds stone cold below freezing.
 

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With your old TW, did you re-jet it as it runs well up to 7000 + feet. It was only struggling when I had it over 9000 feet.
Runs fine at Moab with only a slight power loss that I only noticed when running on the highway.
 

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I have noticed increased power at 9000ft and up from leaning the main jet in my '87 from a 114 to a 110. Jets are cheap - try some different ones and see what happens. I even bought some RICHER jets. They are useless at my altitude but they helped my understanding of tuning carbs a little bit.
 

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I never noticed a lot of power out of correctly jetting my 2013 TW200, but I did improve start performance, idle, and throttle response. Especially throttle right off idle. Tap the start button, or half a kick on the added kick starter is all she takes to light up. Choke just to start when warm and no more than 30 seconds stone cold below freezing.
Agreed, I rejetted a perfectly good 2019, and all the forum posts about jetting are correct. It really isn't about a performance gain, but getting the bike to run correctly in lieu of your environmental variables.

I just followed directions from an older post someone linked to me about rejetting, did a plug check on all stock bike and it was super lean, only started on choke, ran kinda rough. Now it runs and idles well, 600+ miles and the plug checks have all looked really good.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
With your old TW, did you re-jet it as it runs well up to 7000 + feet. It was only struggling when I had it over 9000 feet.
Runs fine at Moab with only a slight power loss that I only noticed when running on the highway.
No...or should I say that I never re-jetted it...and thinking back to the PO, I don't think he was the type that would even try. As far as I know, it was bone stock which is why Pro-Cycle's ad confuses me.
There was nowhere I went locally that it didn't run fine...
 

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Running stock as far as jets go. Commuter, around town and sometimes dirt bike is mostly what I use my TW for.
Does all perfectly well and have put $$ in other places.
Unless I'm missing some amazing transformation never had the need.
Then again there are all those kids that hop-up their Honda's, Toyota's and Nissans and feel better about them.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Agreed, I rejetted a perfectly good 2019, and all the forum posts about jetting are correct. It really isn't about a performance gain, but getting the bike to run correctly in lieu of your environmental variables.

I just followed directions from an older post someone linked to me about rejetting, did a plug check on all stock bike and it was super lean, only started on choke, ran kinda rough. Now it runs and idles well, 600+ miles and the plug checks have all looked really good.
So in the end...what is your setup?
The majority of my riding is from sea level to about 6000 feet.
 

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Before anyone gets excited about jetting numbers make sure they are appropriate to their bike since we have different carbs depending on model year.
Plus aftermarket jets can have different numvers from OEM jets.
Posters please identify your model year either in your vee-hicle's biographical info/ signature or in individual posts when relevant.
 

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Agreed, I rejetted a perfectly good 2019, and all the forum posts about jetting are correct. It really isn't about a performance gain, but getting the bike to run correctly in lieu of your environmental variables.

I just followed directions from an older post someone linked to me about rejetting, did a plug check on all stock bike and it was super lean, only started on choke, ran kinda rough. Now it runs and idles well, 600+ miles and the plug checks have all looked really good.
So in the end...what is your setup?
The majority of my riding is from sea level to about 6000 feet.
2019 TW200

Using Yamaha brand jets:

130 Main Jet
Yamaha 288-14343-65-00 JET,MAIN (#130
34 Pilot Jet
Yamaha 5LB-14342-17-00 Jet, Pilot (#34)
Removed welch plug
Screw was bottomed out so I turned the screw out 2.5 turns.
 

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So in the end...what is your setup?
The majority of my riding is from sea level to about 6000 feet.
Have you adjusted your mixture screw any? I was ready to re-jet basically for the same reason - seems like the thing to do. But after adjusting my mixture screw 2 1/4 turns out, my TW runs like a top and haven't touched the choke knob once since. I'm at 328 ft BTW.

At this point, I'll rejet if I put a noise maker on there which isn't currently in the plans as I'm fine with the stock exhaust (there's a first time for everything) and adjusted screw.
 

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I have messed with the carb on my '95 quite a bit. I'm at 5500 feet, so the main jet is about perfect. Adding a homemade adjustable mixture screw allowed me to get the idle right, and it starts great though it could use a little bigger pilot jet. The needle is shimmed. 020" and the midrange is fine. My trouble is at 1/8 throttle. The starting diameter of the needle is too big, and it's way too lean at first crack. I got another stock needle and have been meaning to cut it down a bit, maybe .001" without disturbing the taper and see if that helps any. Too many other projects to get it done though that should help on the trails where part throttle response is so important.

Sent from my SM-J737V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Have you adjusted your mixture screw any? I was ready to re-jet basically for the same reason - seems like the thing to do. But after adjusting my mixture screw 2 1/4 turns out, my TW runs like a top and haven't touched the choke knob once since. I'm at 328 ft BTW.

At this point, I'll rejet if I put a noise maker on there which isn't currently in the plans as I'm fine with the stock exhaust (there's a first time for everything) and adjusted screw.
When I pulled my carb the other day, I checked the mixture screw and it was at 2½ turns...and since it was running fine, I put it back there once I was finished.
SO it seems that the consensus is "don't fiddle with it unless you have to"....

When I bought my DR650 back in 2010, it ran awful. It was lean, it surged at speeds...it NEEDED to be rejetted right out of the crate.
ProCycle's ad made me think that the TW had the same sort of issues, when in fact it doesn't....or should I say, It doesn't necessarily need to be rejetted.
 

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When I pulled my carb the other day, I checked the mixture screw and it was at 2½ turns...and since it was running fine, I put it back there once I was finished.
SO it seems that the consensus is "don't fiddle with it unless you have to"....

When I bought my DR650 back in 2010, it ran awful. It was lean, it surged at speeds...it NEEDED to be rejetted right out of the crate.
ProCycle's ad made me think that the TW had the same sort of issues, when in fact it doesn't....or should I say, It doesn't necessarily need to be rejetted.
It very much depends on the altitude where you live and ride.

Sent from my SM-J737V using Tapatalk
 

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I'm at 8000 ft with stock jets. I have removed the airbox and gone to a cone filter.

I think because of this the bike does not need jetting. With the new 50$ carb the

bike is running great.
 

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Your pilot screw is already at 2 1/2 turns. If you are happy with the starting and running of your TW, don't mess with the jetting.

I have found the stock configuration of the CV carb at low elevations is lean. Putting a larger main jet helped my TW start easier and had slightly more oomph going uphill...was able to maintain a higher speed.

jb
 
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OK... so I got the ProCycle kit along with a carb rebuild kit. I haven't taken the carb off the bike yet, but this is really where having an excel file where everyone jots down their configuration would take the extensive guess work out of it and you'd know or be closer right out of the gate to what you need.
The rebuild kit I got from them is a Moose Racing kit rebuild with Chinese parts (so far as I can tell, and none too thrilled about that) and a jet needle which has the part # 5B21 and is not only shorter overall, it has a narrow taper compared to the one in the jet kit itself which has a part # of 5A21 and it has a nylon shim below the e-clip that makes their lengths 'almost' equal once seated. (the Moose 5B21 would be sitting into the main jet just a hair further). It is obvious the one in the Moose kit would allow for more flow from the main jet, especially the more you turn the throttle. Alas... I see a lot of trial and error in my future getting this right. They aren't much help with the documentation that comes with it. Just their recommendation for a #34 pilot jet (vs. 31 stock) and their 5A21 jet needle with one shim into a #125 main jet as a starting point for a stock setup. I'm glad there is at least a kit to buy, but to put this into perspective I paid half for a JD jetting kit for my other bike that came with a listing of the most common mods and the right jets, needle and clip position (3 positions on the needles on that Mikuni). I was dead on except for putting the stock pilot back in that one because of a different extended pilot screw I bought. At present, on a stock setup I'm not understanding the larger pilot jet when 2 1/2 turns gets this bike's idle right, unless this main jet and needle configuration is almost cutting off the tiny bit that flows past it at idle.

After doing a bit of parts searching I've learned the stock jet is supposedly already a #126 (and it's a hex head jet from what I've seen.) The #125 in the ProCycle kit is a round aftermarket one that must provide more fuel flow (I assume) based off the previous comment about being able to pull hills a little better. (which is what I'm rejetting for is more flow at WOT under load to pull the mountains around here). Let the fun begin....
 
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