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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Just finding installation on my Trail Tech Vapor speedo/odo/tach.. Posting to answer questions to future enthusiasts installing this.

Here are my two problems at the moment:
-Light board only works when in neutral. This is due to the fact that i wired every single ground to the neutral’s ground, and the neutral light’s circuit is based on a “ground-switch”, i assume when the neutral gear contacts with the switch in the transmission, is ground it. I’d say they couldn’t use a normal circuit because the oil would conduct everywhere Lol.

Problem 2: Signal lights hyper flash. Waiting for my 4 resistors from Rocky Mountain ATV MC.com

That’s all. Only one complaint it that the shift and dashboard lights aren’t super visible in daytime sun, but it’s definitely not a problem.

Absolutely 100% worth the $150 + $60. My most recommended mod by far.

(Don’t worry that my gauge isnt straight, i’ll fix it soon) (Tach works accurately but it’s off in the pics) (I also have the JNS engineering tw200 headlight)

Edit below::
I set the rear red running lights from the signals on the brake. Not running. I think they’re too bright for running lights.
Tail lights also do a neat little flash as soon as you hit the brakes, pretty neat actually.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07GBV4B7L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wQ2rDbR46FRZF
Signal lights on Amazon.ca($20)

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B072ZCZ6JV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DW2rDbBVQGJS9
Tail light with signals on Amazon.ca($15)
 

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Discussion Starter #3

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I had the opportunity to test ride every version and model that Indian put out last year at Daytona. They had similar digital dash that was angled at the worst possible angle imaginable to the Sun making it impossible to see/read during the daytime. At least for 6'1"-6'2" riders.
It was hard for me to understand how such a thing could get past everyone in the manufacturing process to the showroom floor.

Kinda similar to the Trailtech physically yet for $150.00 on a bargain basement motorcycle like a TW200 it's fine. On a $20,000 to $25,000.00 Incian Chief or Darkhorse it's ridiculous.
They did ride nice though. But the cheapness of the digital dash was a turn-off.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I had the opportunity to test ride every version and model that Indian put out last year at Daytona. They had similar digital dash that was angled at the worst possible angle imaginable to the Sun making it impossible to see/read during the daytime. At least for 6'1"-6'2" riders.
It was hard for me to understand how such a thing could get past everyone in the manufacturing process to the showroom floor.

Kinda similar to the Trailtech physically yet for $150.00 on a bargain basement motorcycle like a TW200 it's fine. On a $20,000 to $25,000.00 Incian Chief or Darkhorse it's ridiculous.
They did ride nice though. But the cheapness of the digital dash was a turn-off.
Jeez that’s terrible, i’ve never gotten close to an Indian. Closest dealer to me is 5hours away, in Barrie ON. Lol .I have a Street 750 harley for a street bike very well built hardly any annoyances. On my tw200 dash, the shipping plastic is still on there, so that’s makes glare.. and it was installed by my jerryrigged U-bolt and a couple brackets.Thinking about bending it back some now. Good insight, thanks for the reply
 

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Just finding installation on my Trail Tech Vapor speedo/odo/tach.. Posting to answer questions to future enthusiasts installing this.

Here are my two problems at the moment:
-Light board only works when in neutral. This is due to the fact that i wired every single ground to the neutral’s ground, and the neutral light’s circuit is based on a “ground-switch”, i assume when the neutral gear contacts with the switch in the transmission, is ground it. I’d say they couldn’t use a normal circuit because the oil would conduct everywhere Lol.
A good ground from that cluster is the meter light, the high beam indicator light, or considering the fact you have greatly decreased the load of the headlight, you could also tap onto that ground. The neutral switch is setup that way because it first feeds back to a cut-off relay which then feeds the CDI (along with the kickstand and clutch switches) and it also cuts out current to the starter switch directly as well.

I had this on my DRZ for a short period, and I ended up going back to my stock panel. I found with a polarized visor, it would improve but would look weird as heck at times. Seems like the solution would be a polarized screen layer on the display. The other problem with the LCD in the one I had is the contrast changing with heat (at least on my Vapor it affected it, although others have told me their's never had the issue). I hope it works out for you.
 

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Main features i was looking for was brightness. I’m only legal to ride in the daytime in Ontario rn. They are very suitable. They do “flow” so idk about legality.. Picture:
It's the same here, technically should be the DOT version, but there are so many cars now that are absolutely blinding (even stock setup) and I've yet to see a cop pull anyone over for it. Must be stricter up north. Nice looking TW. I just put those same handguards on mine tonight. I had wired my JNS's DRL off the low beam wire and it shuts off when the high beam comes on. Not an intentional thing, just for convenience in case I need to disconnect it later the connector for the light and the DRL are all wired to the light connector, close together. I prefer the look of yours with the high beam on.
 

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Resistors are about the clumsiest, most difficult way to solve the hyper flash issue. Relays for LED use are $5 on ebay and plug-and play.

I have similar/same indicators on mine. The fronts are white for DRL and then "flow" amber for directional. The rears are red or flowing amber, I guess you can set the red to either brake or taillight. I set them to tail for running lights, but you could also set them to be off normally (except for directional) and illuminate red for braking.

The odd thing I discovered- presumably because of the circuitry inside to "flow" the LEDs for directional, is these don't need a relay, it's somehow built-in to the indicators. I already had a LED compatible flasher relay and swapped these on. Everything worked fine, when I flipped the blinker switch, the dash indicator would still flash and the "flow" would steadily repeat over and over. BUT, when tested, the bike was still pulsing power to the "turn" wire. My only thought is the blinkers have a tiny internal capacitor and a deliberate delay- so they only stop the turn cycle after about 1 second of continuous no power, and can keep it going during the "blink" when no power is supplied.

If you remove the blinker relay entirely, the circuit is dead, nothing happens when you move the switch. But a jumper wire works just as well (only difference is the dash indicator just lights steady and no longer blinks), but the function of the lights is unaffected.

One very strange issue I ran into with mine was the right-hand side would start to flicker between DRL and turn mode when the engine was at or just above idle. Worked perfect while driving, worked perfect with engine off. No loose wires or connectors.

What I discovered is the wire harness that runs down the spine of the bike had slipped down and was resting right against the ignition coil/plug wire. If I moved the harness slightly up, this flickering stopped. I have to assume these are so sensitive to voltage on the "turn" wire, that being near the high voltage source was inducing just enough to trip them into thinking the "turn" had been activated. I moved the harness up and tossed the worn out factory cable ties and the issue is gone.

The idiot lights on most bikes are constant power, floating ground. Neutral on the TW, and on other bikes the same for oil pressure or high temp lights. I have a Vapor installed on my Beta dual sport, it's held up perfectly well and has a lot of nice features. As you mentioned it's two little yellow/red warning lights are quite dim (can set them to warn for either a RPM based shift light, or a temperature warning, or both).

The gauges on most Indian's are re-faced versions of the gauges they use on their ATV's and SxS. Right from the Polaris parts bin.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Main features i was looking for was brightness. I’m only legal to ride in the daytime in Ontario rn. They are very suitable. They do “flow” so idk about legality.. Picture:
I meant the Vapor/dash indicator lights, but the headlight is cool too.
In the box you get two options, the normal bulbs or LED ones. I put the Led ones, and they’re plenty bright for daytime aswell
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Resistors are about the clumsiest, most difficult way to solve the hyper flash issue. Relays for LED use are $5 on ebay and plug-and play.

I have similar/same indicators on mine. The fronts are white for DRL and then "flow" amber for directional. The rears are red or flowing amber, I guess you can set the red to either brake or taillight. I set them to tail for running lights, but you could also set them to be off normally (except for directional) and illuminate red for braking.

The odd thing I discovered- presumably because of the circuitry inside to "flow" the LEDs for directional, is these don't need a relay, it's somehow built-in to the indicators. I already had a LED compatible flasher relay and swapped these on. Everything worked fine, when I flipped the blinker switch, the dash indicator would still flash and the "flow" would steadily repeat over and over. BUT, when tested, the bike was still pulsing power to the "turn" wire. My only thought is the blinkers have a tiny internal capacitor and a deliberate delay- so they only stop the turn cycle after about 1 second of continuous no power, and can keep it going during the "blink" when no power is supplied.

If you remove the blinker relay entirely, the circuit is dead, nothing happens when you move the switch. But a jumper wire works just as well (only difference is the dash indicator just lights steady and no longer blinks), but the function of the lights is unaffected.

One very strange issue I ran into with mine was the right-hand side would start to flicker between DRL and turn mode when the engine was at or just above idle. Worked perfect while driving, worked perfect with engine off. No loose wires or connectors.

What I discovered is the wire harness that runs down the spine of the bike had slipped down and was resting right against the ignition coil/plug wire. If I moved the harness slightly up, this flickering stopped. I have to assume these are so sensitive to voltage on the "turn" wire, that being near the high voltage source was inducing just enough to trip them into thinking the "turn" had been activated. I moved the harness up and tossed the worn out factory cable ties and the issue is gone.

The idiot lights on most bikes are constant power, floating ground. Neutral on the TW, and on other bikes the same for oil pressure or high temp lights. I have a Vapor installed on my Beta dual sport, it's held up perfectly well and has a lot of nice features. As you mentioned it's two little yellow/red warning lights are quite dim (can set them to warn for either a RPM based shift light, or a temperature warning, or both).

The gauges on most Indian's are re-faced versions of the gauges they use on their ATV's and SxS. Right from the Polaris parts bin.
You are correct about the flowing LED “built in resistors”, but they flow fast in the rear simply because i have a brake light unit with more turn signals inside.. the front turn signals work perfectly normal because i don’t have any other lights.
 
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