TW200 Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
472 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Is not working very well. It's only 5-6 years old. Checked burner and for spider webs in burner tube. All looks well. Any with experience or idea's with them?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,427 Posts
What type/brand/model is it? A regular RV type 2 way fridge? Are you checking with a thermometer?

1. They can be very temperamental if they are not level/plumb. Often they are not installed plumb inside of the RV, so even if the RV is level, the fridge will not be. Check by putting a torpedo level on the freezer floor.
2. Try adjusting the thermistor. That is the little plastic thing attached to the metal fin inside of the fridge in the back. Like a mountain climber, move it up for colder temperatures.
3. Does it cool any better when running off of 120v rather off of propane? If yes, there still might be something going on on the burner side of things.
4. They really need to be vented well, so make sure the airways are clear to the roof or upper exhaust vent area.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,077 Posts
Define "not working well"

Does it require more than a few hours on propane to reach normal temperature? If so, is door gasket sealing?

What temperature is it reaching?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
472 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Hi Larry! I'll have to get the brand etc. info later. Yes, it's a 2-way fridge that works well on AC. I'll check the thermistor. Burner is clean and clear as far as I can tell. I used a long brush and compressed air as well as run a long brush up the tube. I checked the gas orifice. I will check the regulator pressure also. Maybe I'm not leveling accurately enough and I'll check that also. Thanks for the suggestions.:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
472 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Doc, It cools down well at night but during moderately warm summer days it gets up to around 60 degrees as I recall. Don't know how long it would take to cool using gas as I usually get it cold with AC before switching to gas. I'll check the door seal. Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,525 Posts
I have found that when my 3 way RV fridge is not working up to snuff, it can be any one of three things or all three. First, I look at the fins. It's a pain in the ass to thoroughly clean them using compressed air followed by bits of dampened shop towels on a hemostat. Next, I use a piece of wire wrapped around a balled up piece of ScotchBrite to clean the chimney (as you did). Finally, I remove the orifice and soak it in Acetone for a couple of hours then blow it out. I do this about every five years. Naturally, this only affects propane operation. When working well, I can keep stuff frozen on the bottom for 4-5 days in 80 degree temps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,865 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
282 Posts
The way the fridge works is it heats a fluid which circulates through the rising coils. If you park the vehicle on a slope and continue to run the fridge it doesn’t allow the proper circulation of the fluid through the coils and the fluid cristalizes and clogs the system. This can cause the poor operation or the total failure of the fridge to operate. I was given this information from a knowledgeable fridge guy after I parked my camper on a steep slope for about 6 hours and trashed my fridge. It would not work at all on propane. After I got home I managed to recondition it by plugging it into AC power for short times off and on for several weeks. Eventually the crystallization must have dissolved because it started to work on AC and propane both. I was lucky.
The lesson I learned was to never park on a slope with the fridge on, and if I do I turn it off during that time. I tend to stress on this because they are spendy and a pain in the butt to replace. I’m told when you’re driving it’s unaffected due to the constant shifting.
In regards to temperature regulation, it differs from AC to propane, how the vehicle is parked in relation to sun exposure, how full the fridge is with food, outside temperatures and altitude. I installed a cheap little thermometer that had a wire probe that I threaded into the interior of the fridge and ziptied to the bottom of a shelf in the center of the fridge. This takes the guess work out of temperature regulation.
Treat them nice, keep all the components clean, and don’t run it when it’s not level and they seem to hold up fairly well.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
169 Posts
All of the above suggestions are a great place to start, but if they do not fix the problem, you may be in need of a replacement controller. These are found on the back side of the refrigerator, usually on the lower left hand side and are prone to failure for a variety of reasons. On a truck camper (mine) exposure to dust, rain, moisture, heat etc. all contributed to a need for a replacement in less than 8 years. Based on your make/model you can likely find a replacement for at a reasonable price. If you have a Dometic Refrigerator-these are readily available but I would look outside of a dealer for a replacement.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
With the 3 way Atwood in my Fourwheel Eagle I would have to clean the area where the flame is. Some funky propane can cause a ton of carbon to build up and this messes with the thermocouple and it would not cool well. Just go in with a small brass brush and clean that burn area.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top