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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
With the help and kindness of Brian, I now have a fully intact 1999 TTR225 motorcycle. It's not without it's problems, but it seems to be viable for what I want. It was listed on craigslist, but not really. The seller was listing a KLR650 Kawasaki and somewhere in the description said he also had this 1999 TTR 225 he wanted to sell for $1,000. I contacted him and met this evening. It is intact and in relatively fair shape considering it's year. The seller wouldn't tell me much other than he bought it last year from someone who submarined it in a deep mud puddle and couldn't get it to run after. The seller installed a new, and I mean factory new, cylinder, piston and rings. It wouldn't start. So monkeyed with the carb and got it to start, but it wouldn't run 'right'. So he bought a carb off eBay and it still wouldn't run right. He said it was cold blooded, took a long time to warm up. When I got there the motor was stone cold. Looked at it and there was a gas leak at the carb. He had the petcock turned to reserve. Set the choke on and then the key. Hit the e-button and it fired right up. Let it idle a bit, then took the choke off and it wanted to die, so left the choke on for another minute. Took the choke off and it was idling too low so I set the idle adjustment. Revved fine, no flat spot, no miss. However, it did smoke. Burning oil. But since it has a brand new barrel, piston and rings, I figure it's likely the valve seals. Turned it off and asked if it shifted good and he said it did and that the clutch was good too. I didn't test ride it. I asked what his bottom line was and he said he had $1,000 in the bike with parts and would want that. I told him I was thinking I'd start at $500, he'd counter with $800 and we'd settle on $600, would he take six? He asked if I could go $700 and I said no. So $600. Loaded it up and took it home. At home it was dark. Unloaded and fired it up. Starts very easy. Warmed it up as I disconnected the hitch carrier. By then it was warm and I mosied up the driveway. Just then a truck drove by, so I followed it using his headlight and tail lights. Bike went through the gears easy, the clutch felt sorta stiff, or firm, but smooth. Went through all 6 gears fine. Turned around and came home. On the way home, in 2nd gear, pinned the throttle wide open for 1 minute and it doesn't cut out. Doesn't feel like any 9,000 rpm, but then my TW200 doesn't either and the new tach says it does, so I'll assume that it does rev out. When I chopped the throttle, not pop or back fire, but a lot of compression braking. A good sign. Part throttle didn't cause any popping or any other problems. I'd have to say the motor feels pretty tight at this point. Down the driveway and into the garage, the idle was now a bit too high. Turned the idle screw back down and it was idling fine. In neutral, I rolled it into the garage and it died. Started it again and it would run if I fanned the throttle, but acted like the idle adjustment was too low, so I cranked it back up again. I then turned off the petcock to let it burn off the bowl. After a minute, the idle went back up. Much like a 2-stroke when it runs out of gas, it revved. I turned back on the petcock and it idled down to die. Back off and burn off some of the bowl and it revved back up. I think the float is not set right. It's a new carb, not sure if its a Chinese clone yet or not, but probably since he said it came off eBay. I then realized I didn't ask him if there were any spare parts like the stock carb, barrel, rings or piston. Crap! I'm headed for San Diego in the morning and won't be back for more than a week, but I'll email the seller and see if he's got them and if he'll hang onto them until I can pick them up.
Since the bike was warm, I pulled the plug and tested the compression. Much better than my TW200, which took several cranks to reach 120, this motor got to 145 in 3 cranks on the e-button. Bled the compression gauge and repeated 3 times. So it's got plenty of compression. The stock plug was very black, rich. A little oil on the threads, but not bad. I put a fresh plug in it and it didn't make any difference from what I could tell.
I did notice that there wasn't any more blue smoke out the exhaust like it did when first fired up and warming up. Again, a sign it may just be valve seals not working right.
So, at the least, I'll pull the head and inspect the valve train. With any luck the seals are all that need replacing. I think I have the tool kit to remove/replace valves and to lap them if needed.
I don't recall if the TTR carb is also swapped or if the TW200 carb is used. Anyone knows, please post. I also don't know what CDI can be used. Hoping the new Waterloo I got will work since the stator assembly is changed out and that's the wiring that will interface.

I imagine I'll pull the motor, clean it up and check valves. Then figure out how it goes into my TW200. I'll either then list the rolling chassis on craigslist as a whole unit, or part it out on eBay. I'm sure I'll get at least my $600 back either way, but likely more by parting out. The wheel assemblies go for around $150 to $200 each. Same with front hydraulic brake. The seat has a couple small tears but the foam is good, the seat pan good, tank is good. Harness good, swingarm, forks, all good. Exhaust is good, not dented all up, has heat shield, etc other than some surface rust. About $100 for each of those brings parts up to maybe $1,000 if I part out.

Some photos;
The whole bike
Wheel Tire Land vehicle Vehicle Fuel tank


clutch side. Barrel looks new
Motor vehicle Hood Automotive design Automotive tire Bumper


Seat with slight tear. Otherwise in good shape
Tire Wheel Hood Blue Automotive tire


Shifter side. Again, the barrel looks new. Carb looks new as well. The carb is nothing like the TW200 carb though. One cable and on the opposite side as a TW200 carb. I don't see how this would work on our bikes without a lot of effort.
Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motorcycle Fuel tank Blue



Rear wheel and tire assembly. Tire has good rubber, the rim is straight, all spokes good. sprocket is good, even the chain is good, albeit dirty.
Tire Wheel Bicycle tire Automotive tire Tread


Brake side. All intact, in good repair, but dirty.
Wheel Tire Motor vehicle Automotive tire Synthetic rubber


From clutch side, the new barrel is obvious as is the carb. Nothing missing, no oil leaks.
Tire Fuel tank Automotive lighting Blue Automotive tire


Front wheel also in good shape; nothing bent or dinged, spokes all good, brake all good, forks good, but butter soft springs. Even the fork boots are good, not torn. Tire has good tread.
Tire Wheel Bicycle tire Motor vehicle Automotive tire
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Congrats Jerry, I'd say that you did pretty good!

I can't say for sure about the TTR carb, but the XT225 carb is way too big to fit into a TW without major mods. My two 225 conversions run great with stock TW carbs.

The skid plate looks similar to an XT225 one that I was able make work on a TW.

Another project that I haven't got around to yet is to bore out a set of TW triple clamps in order to use some XT/TTR fork legs.
I have a set of forks. They are yours if you want. Hope that motivates you to get busy! Ha!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
There's your longer brake cam lever if you haven't gotten one already. And a longer front brake hose if you decide to go higher with your handlebars.
There are a lot of spare parts off this bike that would work on the TW200. the Stator and pulser coils, regulator for example I know are the same part numbers. The CDI isn't, but since the coils are the same, I imagine it would too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Am I a bad person because I now want to stay home and not go to San Diego, instead work on the TW225 mod? Ha! Not serious. But with this and the swingarm project, I think I'll be occupied this winter. Not likely to get either done before Quartzite, but maybe by March for Moab. I'm pretty slow and tend to get bogged down with details. No, no, don't say it's not true. I know I tend to get wayyy too deep into problems that might not be problems after all. Ha! But I do want to be sure this motor is in good running condition and I don't like the smell of motor oil burning in the morning. I'm sure no one wants to smell it when I'm out front and it really doesn't do a thing for my stealth mode of operation. So valve train comes off for an inspection and new seals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Found another near me for $700

I told him I was out of town until next Monday. Anyone interested, let me know and I'll have you be me and you can go get it.
BTW, I'm at Downtown Disney for dinner. Jambalaya at Jazz Kitchen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I would have jumped on that until the no title part. Too bad.
Since only the motor is being used, and the other parts parting out, a title isn't needed. At least not in California where engine numbers on motorcycle is not on the title anyway.
If it is still there when I get back, I will likely buy it, part it out and build the motor for a TW transplant for sale.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Home from San Diego.
Out looking over my "new" (to me) TTR 225 and I looked at the site glass to check oil. Hmmm... No matter how far I tip it over, looks the same. Did this yutz forget to put oil in? But it smoked, so must be some oil. Did it burn ALL the oil, it's that bad? Only one way to tell, pull the drain plug. Oil drained. And drained. And drained...
Measured 100 ounces, a hair over THREE quarts! 3000 CC's to be exact. I guess the idiot somehow filled it 3 times.
What damage do you suppose was done doing this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Thanks Brian. Filled with 1000cc of Traveller SAE 10W40, cheap stuff I keep several gallons of for tractor's backhoe attachment. (She leaks a bit). Very cheap, the rating says, well heck, here's a photo
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I get it at Tractor Supply
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Test drove it.
I don't think it's burning oil now. Carb works great now. Idle sets fine. Started immediately with choke, stuttered after maybe a minute, choke off, revs fine.
Went for a warm up run, shifts smooth. A mile out, figure it's warm enough to get on it a bit. Wow! Lots more power than the TW. Shifts to second with 3/4 throttle popping the clutch will lift the front wheel without applying body English. Very easy to do 2nd gear wheelies while rolling/popping the clutch. I was expecting some power improvement, but not this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
There are two oil leaks. One at the shifter and another on the front right fork leg. The shifter cover is broken where is slides over the shifter shaft. Here's a photo;
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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
That extra 2000 cc isn't gas from a stuck float i hope. Did it stink?
No, it was definitely motor oil, no gas mixed in it. Very thick stuff since I drained it stone cold, expecting that there wasn't any oil in it. It started draining slow due to viscosity, then I went back maybe 5 minutes later and it was near to overflowing my throw-away aluminum pan. (I get these by the dozen from SAM's club.)

The drain plug was aftermarket, same as I bought and posted some time ago off eBay. The blue one...
Rectangle Table Dishware Circle Font


It has a magnet in it. There was very fine metal stuff on it, but very little, I'd say maybe enough to coat my thumbnail? Hardly any at all.
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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
If you have too much oil, what can happen is the fast rotating crank foams up the oil. oily foam doesn't lubricate good enough and mainly oil system looses pressure. so the damage can be almost the same as not enough oil.

that would indicate it's from YFM250, 71mm bore. possibly if the PO bought a whole kit with piston and didn't opt for higher compression, it would have YFM's stock 8.7:1 ratio
Thanks! I know little about bores and such, other than 2-stroke work I've done over the years. Nothing much about 4-stroke. I would have thought the engine case would need to open enough for piston skirt clearance. Any thoughts about that? I'll ask the guy I bought it from what kit he bought. I asked him if he had the old cylinder, piston, carb and any other parts and he said he did, I could pick up when I'm ready.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
from what I know the outer diameter of cylinder sleeves for both the XT(70mm) and YFM(71mm) is the same, so no crankcase opening enlargement needed. But this is not 100% checked info. I am curious what would need to happen to old cylinder to be replaced by new one. I bet it's the same kind of cheap cylinder sets I bought for my build. that way I can imagine it would be cheaper and easier than to work the old cylinder.
I just messaged the seller and asked him if I could come by to pick up the spare parts on Wednesday. I also asked if he could let me know the source for the parts he used and in particular, the 229cc barrel. I don't know how much he knows or if he had a friend do the work for him or what exactly. He's a fairly nice guy, but in a rough neighborhood. Has two Harley's in the garage along with this TTR and a KRL650 he was selling. I'm not sure I'll tell him I found the oil over filled or not. On one hand, I like to let him know, on the other, I don't want him to 'convince' me to sell it back either. Ha! Gangsta!
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 · (Edited)
Here's a photo and link to a cylinder/piston kit off eBay for the YFM 250. I don't know if this is where he got the parts or why he chose the YFM250 instead of the TTR225, but I'll ask when I get the other used parts from him.
If the YFM250 kit is plug-n-play, then I would recommend this to other TTR225 mod owners. For $100, I am telling you all that this bike has a lot more power than my TW200. It even feels like it has a power band, smooth build up of revs and speed up to maybe 4 or 5K rpm then a definite 'hit' beyond that all the way to rev limit. The compression at 145 psi and the compression braking is very much stronger than my TW200 as well. On a steep downhill in 3rd, chop the throttle and it really feels like I hit the brakes. Nice engine braking.
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Discussion Starter · #49 · (Edited)
I don't think this is the reason for the power you feel. it's just 6ccs more, I'd bet the lower compression ratio does overall more harm. I think these kits are stock, which is 8.7:1 comp ratio. I haven't seen a " performace" kit with higher comp.
If I am doing the math right, your measured compression would indicate it's 10:1 Which is entirely possible if he went for high comp piston. And if he said he spent 1000 on parts, and isn't lying, the high comp piston could be a reality. that would also go inline with what you feel

edit.
OH and a thing I recall about YFM cylinders, is that the hole for oil feed stud( is that the right word? the small cylindrical hollow thing which locates the head on cylinder) is little bit shallower. nothing hard to get it right. I can't recall more details.
Thanks again! (I have a feeling I'm going to be thanking you a lot for your input)
So you are saying the stock YFM250 compression of 8.7:1 is likely to be felt as a loss to power compared to a stock TW200 motor or the stock TTR225 motor? (or both perhaps?)

I confirmed the YFM specs as follows;
229.6 cm3
Bore x stroke 71 x 58 mm (2.80 x 2.28 in)
Compression ratio 8.7:1
Compression pressure 128 psi

As my photo showed, I am in the 145 psi ballpark. Which you somehow calculate to be a 10:1 ratio range. The formula is compression divided by absolute air pressure. Average sea level air pressure is 14.7psi. At 1,930' elevation where I live, that drops to 13.7psi. My compression reads 145psi. Divide by 13.7 and you get 10.6:1 compression ratio. I'm going to guess this bike with the 229.6cc cylinder that makes 8.7:1 ratio with stock piston (128psi) has a high compression piston in it.
That would explain the significant increase in felt power from this bike compared to my TW200. This bike easily does 2nd gear power wheelies. I'm shocked. Playing with it, I can easily loft the front wheel over logs and rocks. I am really looking forward to putting it in the TW200 and seeing what it's gonna do.

I don't really understand what you were talking about the oil feed stud. Do I need to take this into consideration?
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
This is a link to the eBay kit the seller I bought my TTR225 from got his parts from.
Cylinder Piston Gasket Top End Set Bore 70mm For Yamaha XT225 TTR225 TTR230 | eBay
It says it's for the TTR225 but you can see the cylinder is marked 229cm3 and the piston is the YFM250 like UK guy posted. So without a doubt I have the YFM250 kit despite what the seller claimed.

As far as the oil way goes with my TTR225 head with a YFM barrel and piston, I can't even begin to guess how that was accomplished since UK guy says the combo requires a rework of the cylinder to match to the head. I suppose I'll find out when I look into the oil burning issue that I suspect is the valve seals. Or not. I can only see the oil smoke upon start and warm up. Maybe I should let that sleeping dog lie.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Interesting. I have that same cylinder you linked. Haven't started assembly yet so I'll look into the dowel issue. My combo is XT bottom end and TTR head.
I used that exact barrel in my 225 build, no issues
did you both get the kit that included the piston as well? If so, does your piston look like the YFM version or the TTR/XT version where the valve recesses are.

Obviously the 229cm3 cylinder is 71mm piston and the 223cm3 cylinder is 70mm. The stroke is 58mm so the math shows that to be true. (Pi * R2 * 58)
 
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