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I tried to search this through google and on the sites search but I didn't really find anything that answered my question. If I go with a ttr230 engine, can I install my kick starter bits from my 1989 tw200 engine? I already have the shaft extension kit. I'm just shopping engines hoping to find a wrecked bike locally.
 

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There has been some debate as to which cases and side covers are drilled/machined to accept the spindle. The hole is likely cast but the finish machining might not be done. Best answer I can give is...maybe. someone will likely be along with more concrete answers.
 
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also re the 230 I have only seen one guy do that conversion and he seemed to have some trouble fully seating the TW225 extension shaft as I recall he got it working but at first he thought he got a faulty extension but I suspect some dimensions in the output shaft area might vary slightly

the Big Bore shaft is a known win win with XT225 and TTR225 motors but with the TTR230 etc it's still unproven
 

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Good info on the 230. I hadn't heard that.
 

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Even though you were asking specifically about TTR230, I'll leave this here:

These just got delivered to me today. Bottom end was listed as 1999 TTR225. Cast but no finish machining.
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The side cover was listed as a 2004 TTR225. Again, cast but not drilled.
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When I built my other 225 I used a cover that was listed as a 1999 TTR225. As you can see, the hole was drilled, but when I received it there was a plastic plug in the hole.
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Not sure if there is a concrete rule on the XT and TTR cases. Side covers were possibly remaining stock being used up. My understanding is that no TTRs were factory equipped with kickstarts, so I would assume they aren't machined. If you happen to run across one that is, cool.

To your original question, I found this post that may be of value.
 

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I have a detailed and photographed report here on the forum someplace where I added a kick start to the 1999 TTR225 motor I have. I was able to open the crank case cast, but unmilled blind hole in Mistervelocity's first photo he posted with a small drum sander in my Dremel kit. Two things to note doing this; the sanding drum did not need to go all the way to the bottom of the blind hole. The kicker shank doesn't go that far in. It's not critical how deep you open the hole, as long as it's deep enough for the kicker shank. It doesn't need to be a precision fit, the kicker only travels 125 or so degress of arc when kicking and it's not like it's a high speed where friction would cause heat. Just drum sanded enough for a sloppy fit and assembled. Worked fine.
The second thing is the idler shaft isn't milled with a groove for the circlips. One is used on the inside before a washer then the idler gear to keep the gear from rubbing on the crank case and another on the outside edge to keep the gear from falling off. I milled a groove, again using my Dremel tool but this time using a thin cut-off blade and a steady hand as I turned the shaft by rotating the rear wheel that was supported off the ground.
Also, the shaft is hollow from the inside and a hole drilled that is covered by the idler gear for lubing. I didn't drill out mine and figured the brass bushing inside the idler gear would allow enough oil for something that rarely saw a load on it.
For the side cover, I bought one off a XT225 aleady milled for the shank and the seal then sold my OEM TTR cover for a net cost of zero and a whole lot less work.
A couple photos. Sorry I can't find any of sanding the blind hole. I used double sticky masking tape around the area to capture the aluminum dust during the sanding, but in reality, a couple oil changes after riding it 15 minutes each time flushed it out and it was so fine, none was captured by the filter, so nothing large enough to cause harm.

Idler gear has a brass bushing wtih holes to allow oil to migrate under and provide enough lube I felt to skp drilling the shaft for oiling. This gear is right behind the clutch and gets tons of oil splashing.
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Cutting the groove with the Dremel. The tool is braced and held steady, the shaft is rotated by turning the rear tire that is lifted off the ground.
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Groove finished and a circlip installed for test and effect. Worked perfectly!
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This is the cutting blade on the dremel. The small one has a narrower curf than the larger one, leaving the right sized groove.
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Finished product
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Kick start lever installed. Zero interference with the brake lever. That link provided by someone earlier addressed an issue they had with the modified brake lever not allowing more than 90 degree arc travel for the kicker. Mine goes all the way to the foot rest.
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Even though you were asking specifically about TTR230, I'll leave this here:

These just got delivered to me today. Bottom end was listed as 1999 TTR225. Cast but no finish machining. View attachment 227504

The side cover was listed as a 2004 TTR225. Again, cast but not drilled. View attachment 227505 View attachment 227506


When I built my other 225 I used a cover that was listed as a 1999 TTR225. As you can see, the hole was drilled, but when I received it there was a plastic plug in the hole. View attachment 227507

Not sure if there is a concrete rule on the XT and TTR cases. Side covers were possibly remaining stock being used up. My understanding is that no TTRs were factory equipped with kickstarts, so I would assume they aren't machined. If you happen to run across one that is, cool.

To your original question, I found this post that may be of value.
I'm just going to piggyback my own post for archive purposes. I just came into possession of a pair of cases labeled 2002 TTR225. The right side case appears to be kickstart ready.
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Seems to be no rhyme or reason.
 
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