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I have a detailed and photographed report here on the forum someplace where I added a kick start to the 1999 TTR225 motor I have. I was able to open the crank case cast, but unmilled blind hole in Mistervelocity's first photo he posted with a small drum sander in my Dremel kit. Two things to note doing this; the sanding drum did not need to go all the way to the bottom of the blind hole. The kicker shank doesn't go that far in. It's not critical how deep you open the hole, as long as it's deep enough for the kicker shank. It doesn't need to be a precision fit, the kicker only travels 125 or so degress of arc when kicking and it's not like it's a high speed where friction would cause heat. Just drum sanded enough for a sloppy fit and assembled. Worked fine.
The second thing is the idler shaft isn't milled with a groove for the circlips. One is used on the inside before a washer then the idler gear to keep the gear from rubbing on the crank case and another on the outside edge to keep the gear from falling off. I milled a groove, again using my Dremel tool but this time using a thin cut-off blade and a steady hand as I turned the shaft by rotating the rear wheel that was supported off the ground.
Also, the shaft is hollow from the inside and a hole drilled that is covered by the idler gear for lubing. I didn't drill out mine and figured the brass bushing inside the idler gear would allow enough oil for something that rarely saw a load on it.
For the side cover, I bought one off a XT225 aleady milled for the shank and the seal then sold my OEM TTR cover for a net cost of zero and a whole lot less work.
A couple photos. Sorry I can't find any of sanding the blind hole. I used double sticky masking tape around the area to capture the aluminum dust during the sanding, but in reality, a couple oil changes after riding it 15 minutes each time flushed it out and it was so fine, none was captured by the filter, so nothing large enough to cause harm.

Idler gear has a brass bushing wtih holes to allow oil to migrate under and provide enough lube I felt to skp drilling the shaft for oiling. This gear is right behind the clutch and gets tons of oil splashing.
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Cutting the groove with the Dremel. The tool is braced and held steady, the shaft is rotated by turning the rear tire that is lifted off the ground.
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Groove finished and a circlip installed for test and effect. Worked perfectly!
Light Motor vehicle Rim Engineering Gas

This is the cutting blade on the dremel. The small one has a narrower curf than the larger one, leaving the right sized groove.
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Finished product
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Kick start lever installed. Zero interference with the brake lever. That link provided by someone earlier addressed an issue they had with the modified brake lever not allowing more than 90 degree arc travel for the kicker. Mine goes all the way to the foot rest.
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