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I found the 114 stamp on it, is the plastic shield over the main jet necessary?
One of my TW's has it and the other one doesn't and I can't tell the difference. I say if you have it use it. If not don't worry about it.

I magnified the pic of your jet and it looks corroded, much like the one I replaced.

Here is a picture of the #114 jet I replaced along with the jet I replaced it with. It solved what was wrong with my TW at the time.

Jet3.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
elime, before i took the bike apart today i had it tuned to where it was idling reliably and had good mid range power, but stumbling top end. i took it apart and very thoroughly cleaned out the jets, and the fuel passage from where the petcock dumps into, and upon reassembling and starting the bike, it is now extremely rich at idle, to where it wont stay on without nursing the throttle, but its got immaculate top end! i think you were right, i suspect i blew out some of the corrosion in the jets today and created this new issue. i suspect its time for a carb gasket and jet kit.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Ok, update-

rebuilt the carburetor using a "moose racing" carb repair kit

replaced the main nozzle, replaced the main jet, left the pilot jet, replaced the float needle/ valve set (there was a ton of crud plugging the screen when i pulled it and a lot of brass corrosion), replaced drain plug screw, replaced air idle mixture screw, reinstalled with the original pilot jet and needle with one shim, bike started good but wasnt idling well and the air fuel fuel mixture adjustment wasnt really affecting idle at all.

Pulled carb, removed new main jet and compared to original, both marked 114 but the new jet had a smaller diameter opening than the old so i reinstalled the old jet on the new main nozzle, not too much difference in the way it ran, so pulled carb, pulled old pilot jet and compared to new pilot jet (both marked 40) and the new pilot jet has a slightly larger opening, cleaned the pilot circuit? (opening that goes from main inlet in carb to where the pilot jet is at) and reinstalled, again, issues with idle.

pulled carb, removed old needle and shim, intall new brass looking needle with no shim, now better idle with full choke, starts warming up idle goes up, put choke at halfway, idling good but ocasionally pops and then has weird idle and needs more choke, then once warm (idle raises as it warms up on choke by the way) i put choke fully off and it just doesnt want to idle. bike is slightly rich at idle and so the idle mixture postition that it likes best is at around 1 3/4 turns out from a gentle seat. with half choke it has good throttle response, though i havnt ridden it yet. ALSO, there is a leak in the intake boot (intake side of carb), confirmed by spraying with cleaning fluid and getting a raise in idle. dont know if that air leak would cause this failure to idle, though. tried increasing idle speed with the idle screw and it didnt seem to help, maybe i need to really crank that screw down or something? i dont know...
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Pics in order- new rebuild kit
Float valve and filter/ screen
Float valve passage with crud in it
Old main jet next to new jet
Old needle next to new needle
 

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Air leak is on the intake valve side of the carb? Or on the air filter side of the carb? If its on the intake valve side of the carb. fix it before you do anything else. If its on the air filter side of the carb I don't think it would make much difference other than letting dirt and dust in.
 

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Remember the old trick of put your hand across the carb to block air and it makes it run richer. I think with an air leak on the air filter side it will make it run a little leaner since it is bypassing the filter. On my 1993 this did make a difference. Mine at wot would chug or thump because it was lacking fuel. When I fixed the air leak on the leaking air boot on the filter side I never had another issue with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Makes sense, unfortunately it is currently tuned slightly rich from factory settings, and the issue I'm working on right now is an idle issue. It warms up and with choke off, the idle is super low and uneven and just wont hold at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
You may need to put a smaller pilot jet in it for the idle circuit.
Ken, i tried starting the bike this morning and it wasnt wanting to. Finally got it fired up and it was backfiring a lot and just running rough in general. Pulled the newer, larger diameter pilot jet and installed the old pilot jet after cleaning it out, again. Re-set air idle mixture screw to 2.5 turns from a gentle seat, and with full choke it fired right up and idled smooth. after warming up and the idle raising i tried going to slightly less than half choke, and it did OK for a few seconds, then backfired and started having issues maintaining idle. turned idle mixture screw in about a turn and it seemed to help, but ultimately not very much. It just doesnt want to idle off choke.
 

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I run Marvel Mystery Oil in every tank of fuel, about 1/2-3/4 of an ounce. Many say snake oil doesn't work but I have had good luck with it on my bikes, lawnmowers and all small engines. The last bike I bought, a Honda Shadow Spirit 1100, I was told needed a carb overhaul. I test rode it before I bought it. The bike popped and surged a little like it needed a carb overhaul. I paid the guy and left it at his shop until I could come back and pick it up. I brought gas with MMO in it, rode it off, got it inspected and title changed in the same day. That was a miracle. I never did anything to the carbs and now it runs perfectly. I have had it over a year now. Back to your TW. Have you done a compression test? Have you tried another plug? I have had plugs cause backfiring. I have had bad valves cause backfiring. Have you checked your timing chain tensioner to see if it's adjusted to spec? If it is still your carb, there is a hole in the throat of the carb that causes issues if it becomes clogged. I think it causes more midrange issues though. If it is mainly in your idle, add Berrymans Chemtool B12, Seafoam or MMO and go ride it in places where you can keep going. Maybe it will blow through after some hard riding. Another thing to check is fire it up at night and mist around the spark plug wire with a spray bottle of water and see if you're losing any spark. It will be great when you get this thing up and running like it should. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Finally got around to pulling the petcock and found it was quite a mess. Went ahead and did a vinegar treatment on the tank and replaced the petcock, cleaned the carb out again and added a fuel filter from petcock to carb, and set it to 2.5 turns on the mixture screw, fired right up! Wasnt wanting to idle well and so I set the idle mixture to about 3 turns out. Shes running with great power all through the power band, but she is cold blooded. Wants choke for quite a while, but after letting it warm up and gently riding for a bit, she will idle without choke! Still has popping on close throttle deceleration, and at idle it does pop and rpm waiver a little bit.

Want to do an oil change now, pulled the filter and there are a small ammount of silver metal shavings in the filter, and the oil IS dirty. Spark plug now has a nice brown tone to the diode. Still needs work but I think it may be ready to ride once I change that oil... what's up with the shavings? Mileage is now a hair above 2000.
 

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That sounds like you got the worst of the problem knocked out. Good job. It seems like it is pretty normal to have some shavings in the oil filter area, it is doing its job. Have fun riding now.
 
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