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Discussion Starter #1
I live in Ca. and hunt in the rugged mountains of Idaho with my XT350. It would beat me up so bad crashing/falling and riding that heavy bike on the Billy Goat trails that I had to buy a more "forgiving" bike.

I just bought an 05 TW200. Sweet and very effortless ride. Sold my Rokon and XT350 as the TW200 is all those mixed into 1.

I've already done some trail riding with it and what a difference. I should have bought one 10 years ago!

I have ordered a Cycle Rack rear rack for hauling out my elk quarters, hand guards and a stock muffler for that "stealth" mode but I want to know if there is an easy way to install a switch to turn off all the lights as I'm riding.

I want to be able to sneak up on game and not let the other hunters know where I am and with all the lights on I look like a Christmas Tree riding down the trail.

Obviously I will not use this lighting kill switch when I am on public roads, only when I am off road and need to be sneaky.

There was some talk about how to install it but it wasn't clear.
 

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Me too! Would be nice to take advantage of the stealthiness of this little machine. I have a short stretch through a neighbors back yard to get our trails. They know I cut through there and dont mind but I can see my headlights flashing on their bedroom wall at night when I bounce through. I would like a "on-off-on?" switch so I could run the high/low lights for normal road driving, then have a smaller/dimmer trail light for when needed. Or to just be able to shut them off completely.
I need to order a weatherproof toggle to get started. Was looking at a Cole Hearse switch. Id have to figure out where to mount the switch. With a little luck I probably could of had it done by now if Id of ordered the part when I first thought about it. In the past I adjusted my light down towards the ground but then any night rides on rural wooded roads could be absolutely treacherous. I know there is going to be safety concerns with this. I believe most all of us are aware enough to watch our own asses. This maturity is part of the path that lead me to the TW anyway. Any advice on equipment needed would be awesome. Good topic!
 

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I think the bike runs without the battery (the CDI circuit) so technically all you need to do is cut power to the battery which would require a beefy switch, but would be easy to hook up as well as remove later if you want to sell the bike. That means no brake light though.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I think the bike runs without the battery (the CDI circuit) so technically all you need to do is cut power to the battery which would require a beefy switch, but would be easy to hook up as well as remove later if you want to sell the bike. That means no brake light though.
Yeah I would want no lights...Meaning brake lights also.

Again, it would only be used in stealth mode (Coming into a hunting area early morning sneaky-sneaky) I am an electrician so I know how to install a switch, I am concerned about messing up the charging system. I work with AC, never DC.

Dont want to mess up the rectifier/regulator, or possibly the stator?!?

Someone must have more knowledge to this than me.

I was thinking of just finding the wire that feeds the lights and install an in-line switch (multi pole switch if needed) that would cut power to the lights.

It would also help when starting in low temps as there is not a lighting load on the battery at start up.
 

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There are three wires to the plug on the back of the headlight. Figure out which wire is to the dim side and unplug it. Then you'll have lights on bright, and when you hit dim, you will have none.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So that way the battery will not receive or give out any voltage and not receive a charge.

I guess it doesn't matter if it doesn't charge during "stealth mode" as I will be using it on a limited basis and most the time be in regular lights on mode (normal operating mode).

Just curious.

So a master main shut off switch would have to be installed........where?

On the positive battery terminal?

So effectively killing ALL power coming out from the battery.

Wow, what amp rated switch would that have to be?
 

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Yep, that's my best guess. You can use a solenoid and a smaller switch to deal with the 'big current' issue. Kinda funny using a solenoid to open the circuit of the same battery that powers the solenoid, but it would allow a cheaper switch and be safer because of less need to run high current wire all the way through the bike.



A solenoid circuit with a normal handlebar toggle switch would be a clean, but complicated setup to use. It'd jumper between your positive battery wire and terminal The switch/solenoid circuit should be fused for safety.



The powered side of the solenoid would have to be wired separately obviously.



Simplest solution is to just unscrew the red wire from the battery when you get to the woods and let it hang loose somewhere. It takes me about 30 seconds to get my seat off the bike since I have the quick release bolts that don't require a wrench holding it on.



If you do make a switch setup directly to the battery, I'd try to mount it as close to the battery as possible. Maybe on the frame under your right leg. They make cheap and expensive battery cut-off switches for use in race cars or to keep your battery from going dead due to always-on devices like clocks in classic cars.



Something like this:







or this





http://www.performanceplusconnection.com/media/ecom/prodxl/Battery Switch PPC Face.jpg



They cost about 30 bucks. That's your easiest route. Just one of those mounted near the battery where you can access it without removing the seat.
 

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as others above have pointed out, the biggest issue is over charging the battery (boiling). If your going to kill the electrical load of the lights, you too should kill the 'charge' to the battery. A switch in the main positive lead will do this. Has there been any thought to, for lack of a better term, 'enabling' the motor to run buy a switch on the 'kill switch' side of the ignition key? Not having looked at the schematic real close, but I think the ignition switch is a single pole-double throw set-up. Meaning the key connects two wires to turn on the lights, and disconnects two wires to allow the motor to run. Get it started, flip the 'hidden' and much smaller switch, turn off the key, and go. No lights, no charge, no problem! (I think. If someone can confirm). TIM
 

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Discussion Starter #12
as others above have pointed out, the biggest issue is over charging the battery (boiling). If your going to kill the electrical load of the lights, you too should kill the 'charge' to the battery. A switch in the main positive lead will do this. Has there been any thought to, for lack of a better term, 'enabling' the motor to run buy a switch on the 'kill switch' side of the ignition key? Not having looked at the schematic real close, but I think the ignition switch is a single pole-double throw set-up. Meaning the key connects two wires to turn on the lights, and disconnects two wires to allow the motor to run. Get it started, flip the 'hidden' and much smaller switch, turn off the key, and go. No lights, no charge, no problem! (I think. If someone can confirm). TIM
If it could be done that way I wouldn't need an "industrial" kill switch as posted before, just a small toggle type on/off switch.

Your way sounds a lot easier & user friendly rather than installing a master switch.

Is there a wiring diagram out there I can look at or someone else has looked at?

If they could show us where (in relationship to the wiring diagram not physically where) to install the switch it would help tremendously.

If I know where in the wiring I install the switch, then all i have to do is find a non-descript location on the bike to put it, we'll save that for another thread. LOL
 

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looking at the diagram, the switch could be installed in the black w/white stripe wire coming from the CDI. My concern, now that I've looked more closely, is the ignition cut off relay. It may need to be 'energized' to allow the ignition to fire. I believe this the ignition relay to be part of the safety circuit (that won't allow the bike to start if the bike is not in neutral, clutch not pulled in, side stand not down). Anyone? TIM
 

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The archaic but useful multiple electrical outputs of the TW isolates the ignition to one output source and lights/ battery / electric start to the other output. I suspect it is prudent to mimic the load of the lights with your shunt switch . The "balanced load" aspect is why your battery boils with the light load removed, Output / power consumption is no longer balanced. The shunt needs to consume the same amount of power your (switched off) stock lights do would be the conservative response to the problem. rw
 

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turning off the key would kill all the need to worry about the charging and the like. Adding the small switch to allow the engine to run with the key in the 'off' position is the proposal in question. Anybody tried it? Anybody willing to try? I'd do it but if someone is in a 'teardown' state with their bike, it would be much easier. Any takers? TIM
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yeah, I don't want to be the Guinea Pig on this one. There has to be someone else in this forum that has done this before an got it right with no charging/boiling/electrical problems.

I know my friends have done this with their newer 4wd trucks because they all have Daytime running lights (DRL) and there is no way to turn them off.

So they just interrupted the circuit to the light with an in-line switch.

But vehicles don't have the unique balanced charging system T-Dubs do.

I spent the afternoon installing a gun rack modification to my cycle rack.

See post in performance/modification.

Next project will be adding a kick start.

after I finish all those projects I will tackle the lighting one and let you know.

Stay tuned
 

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I think the bike runs without the battery (the CDI circuit) so technically all you need to do is cut power to the battery which would require a beefy switch, but would be easy to hook up as well as remove later if you want to sell the bike. That means no brake light though.


Looking at what is supposedly the schematic for my '94, cutting off power to the lights is more complicated than first imagined.



Following powerout of the rectifier/regulator (2) the red wire meets upwith red/white, one going to battery directly, one going to the main switch. The brown wire is power(+) out. Along the way it feeds power to the starting circuit cut off relay, the ignition circuit cutoff relay. Likely you could tap into the brown wire past where the ignition circuit cut off relay taps into the brown wire to avoid affecting the ignition circuit cut off relay.



The aggregate load of the switched off lighting circuits needs to be replaced with an equivalent dummy load for your shunt to not blow stuff up. I suspect there is a very good chance of frying your stator and perhaps the regulator / rectifier if this is not done correctly. If you cut into the brown wire in the wrong place, the safety relays will not receive power and the bike will not run. rw
 

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I live in Ca. and hunt in the rugged mountains of Idaho with my XT350. It would beat me up so bad crashing/falling and riding that heavy bike on the Billy Goat trails that I had to buy a more "forgiving" bike.

I just bought an 05 TW200. Sweet and very effortless ride. Sold my Rokon and XT350 as the TW200 is all those mixed into 1.

I've already done some trail riding with it and what a difference. I should have bought one 10 years ago!

I have ordered a Cycle Rack rear rack for hauling out my elk quarters, hand guards and a stock muffler for that "stealth" mode but I want to know if there is an easy way to install a switch to turn off all the lights as I'm riding.

I want to be able to sneak up on game and not let the other hunters know where I am and with all the lights on I look like a Christmas Tree riding down the trail.

Obviously I will not use this lighting kill switch when I am on public roads, only when I am off road and need to be sneaky.

There was some talk about how to install it but it wasn't clear.




I have run my bike on stealth mode in the back country hunting and fishing since 1996. Put a switch on the ground wires for the high beam headlight and brake tail light. Cut the ground wire, extend it to the the switch on your dash and run it back to the other end of the ground wire you cut. In put a ground switch on the high beam only so when I go stealth I flip the ground switch and I can still use my low beam with the stock high low switch. So with the ground switch on "stealth mode" I can turn the headlight off by flipping the high beam on. Head light on switch to the low beam. I have a switch for the tail light and one for the head light. Run a TrueGel sealed battery no boil over.



Ronnydog
 

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Looking at what is supposedly the schematic for my '94, cutting off power to the lights is more complicated than first imagined.



Following powerout of the rectifier/regulator (2) the red wire meets upwith red/white, one going to battery directly, one going to the main switch. The brown wire is power(+) out. Along the way it feeds power to the starting circuit cut off relay, the ignition circuit cutoff relay. Likely you could tap into the brown wire past where the ignition circuit cut off relay taps into the brown wire to avoid affecting the ignition circuit cut off relay.



The aggregate load of the switched off lighting circuits needs to be replaced with an equivalent dummy load for your shunt to not blow stuff up. I suspect there is a very good chance of frying your stator and perhaps the regulator / rectifier if this is not done correctly. If you cut into the brown wire in the wrong place, the safety relays will not receive power and the bike will not run. rw






Switch bank.



Ronnydog
 
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