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RE: 2004 TW200, 6k miles. The clutch is a typical crappy one, grabby, or usable friction-zone and then it ‘engages itself,’ albeit slowly, without easing the lever out further. I assume a new clutch or clutch assembly, particularly an improved aftermarket such, would provide a better clutch, and smoother friction-zone modulation.

What do I need to buy in order to do a clutch job properly? What land mines are lurking inside the cases?

Thanx!
 

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From my riding experience, with various mileage TWs, and from some research on the clutch "abruptness" and very short engage/disengage point, I don't think a new or aftermarket clutch will change the grabbiness that much.

I haven't read anything that indicates a much smoother or better feeling clutch in general happens with new or aftermarket clutch kits.

But the good new is that internal clutch mechanism is very much like most dirt bikes I've seen.
Metal and fibre clutch plates, metal clutch basket, springs for tension, throw-out rod in center. There are smaller covers which are a little easier to deal with. You can do it without draining the oil but I always suggest you do it while changing the oil anyways.

If it's not slipping in 4th or 5th I wouldn't worry about it.
Make sure the return spring is in the right spot and adjust the cable free-play to get the release point where you want on the lever and just use it.
 

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It is not difficult to replace the clutch in a TW. What you will need is a new gasket for right side (clutch side) cover. You might also want to order a new lockwasher for the clutch basket. The original lockwasher has two locking ears, so you may not need the new one, but it is a good idea to have it in case you need remove the clutch for a second time.

It is not even necessary to drain your oil if you just want to lay your bike over on its left side.

Unless you are extremely lucky and the old gasket comes off cleanly, the most tedious and time consuming part of this job will likely be removing the old gasket which will likely be stuck to the side cover and/or the crankcase.

It is best to use a proper tool to remove the clutch basket and not just use a screwdriver and jam it between the narrow posts on the basket. These are easily broken and costly to replace. I do not have personal experience with aftermarket replacement clutches, but I have read good reviews about Barnett clutches. You may also want to consider replacing the stock springs with heavy duty springs.

If you PM me your email address, I will send you some instructions that I prepared for removing a TW kickstarter which requires the removal of the clutch. These instructions also include several tips to ease reassembly.

Here are examples of several tools for removing the clutch basket.

This is a universal type of tool that will work for many different bikes.
100_2822.JPG

This is one that is specifically made for the TW.
IMG_1493.jpg
 

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Make sure center bolt is adjust correctly. Red arrow.

P9260023 (2)a.jpg clutcha.jpg P8090023b.jpg

After market springs help. The short one is stock, the longer is aftermarket:

PA260151.JPG P2210826a.jpg

Barnett Kevlar clutches are very good but cost about twice as much as a stock one. This guy accepted my offer of $70 so don't pay the asking price if you go this way. The kit includes new springs.

YAMAHA BARNETT CLUTCH KIT TW200 TW 200 1978 - 2015 | eBay

Use a torque wrench and don't over tighten the bolts or you will break the clutch basket.
 

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Quick question. I don’t have a service manual so I’m inquiring what the torque is for the main nut on the clutch basket. I just installed a Kickstarter on my 2002. The assembly went well. I had to make a tool to hold the clutch but it was simple and worked well. I just used a scrap piece of aluminum. All the Kickstarter parts have gone in fairly easy. Just got to torque it and button it up.
 

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Quick question. I don’t have a service manual so I’m inquiring what the torque is for the main nut on the clutch basket. I just installed a Kickstarter on my 2002. The assembly went well. I had to make a tool to hold the clutch but it was simple and worked well. I just used a scrap piece of aluminum. All the Kickstarter parts have gone in fairly easy. Just got to torque it and button it up.
Pretty fancy clutch holding tool!

I never use a torque wrench so I can't help you with a value, I just just torque it to a medium grunt with a shorter handled wrench than the one shown in your picture. It is not going to come loose once you bend up the locking tab to secure it in place.
 
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