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OK, SO, the Good Idea Fairy visits quite often. Looking at this mod, I am reminded of "snorkel" kits on military vehicles that put the intake and exhaust openings around eye level of the driver of the hummvee, 5 ton, 2 1/2 etc. that allows it to fully function while submerged. I have seen home made snorkel kits on 4 wheelers, and now they have after market kits for them: Should You Snorkel Your ATV? | MotoSport also: Building a Serious Mud Riding Machine .
I'm not the only one to have the idea for a motorcycle: So im thinking of scubadiving and made myself a snorkel for the R1200gsa - ADVrider .


Have any of you done something like this for your tw?

How would you go about doing this for your tw?
 

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One of the easier methods is to use a bilge pump hose. Start by drilling a hole in the airbox for the thru hull fitting, attachiing the hose to it and running it carefully up toward the stem and terminate it on the handlebars. Its probably not really necessary very often though, I cross alot of water with my bike and have never really needed one of these, though I did buy all the kit to do this mod but never did assemble it on the bike.
 

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Hmmm... Good thread, and I will be inspecting my new TW and making appropriate modifications as required. But I suddenly had this idea....

  • Rectify vent hose design...
  • Verify airbox to seat seals...
  • And... install one of these in the bottom of the airbox ???? DamageControl
Hey, call me crazy. I won't be doing this. I just thought it and it kinda made me chuckle... (the bilge pump part)
 
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I have been to these scale battleship battles that use these mini-bilge pumps and they sure are fun. Compressed air cannons shoot BBs and ball bearings from realistic semi scale fleets at each other and a actually sink each other . Safety goggles are required as the projectiles really fly all over the place.
Lots of rules and formulas dictating armor armament and scale. Say if you have model of Iowa battleship that full scale has 9 16" main cannon and 12 5" this translates into the scale ship having 9 1/4" ball bearing and 12 BB firing cannons, or trade a main gun or some BB cannons for a bilge pump or two. Torpedo launchers scale down to two BBs joined together. There are submarines too. All radio controled. Battles last about 15 minutes or untill one sides capitol ships are all sunk. Balsa is used at the waterline and projectiles rip right through this. Firing at and thus damaging opponents scale upper works is discouraged. If you have a local club that does this go check it out.
I used to be into radio controlled hobbies before I discovered the TW. 4x4 buggy racing in Texas and whitewater electric and weed-eater boats in California. Up here local flying club has a seaplane wednesday event most summers at local Boca reservoir.
 

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This thread has evolved over a few years. Now that my seat is off and the bike is stripped down for the base gasket upgrade, I will double check to see if I modded per the suggestions presented here.
 

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Sometimes the sudden cooling can stop an aircooled engine. 30 odd years ago, on a deep water crossing I would partially choke the engine to keep it running until I came out.
Some bikes are more susceptible to this than others.
 

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I have been to these scale battleship battles that use these mini-bilge pumps and they sure are fun. Compressed air cannons shoot BBs and ball bearings from realistic semi scale fleets at each other and a actually sink each other . Safety goggles are required as the projectiles really fly all over the place.
Lots of rules and formulas dictating armor armament and scale. Say if you have model of Iowa battleship that full scale has 9 16" main cannon and 12 5"
the iowa (BB61) was one of them fancy, late model battlewagons. my grandfather started on the uss california (BB44) with 14" and moved on to the uss north carolina (BB55) with 16" guns, where he was in turret #3 port side gun loading the 5' shells and silk sacks of powder. lobbing 2500 lb projectiles over 20 miles, nearly 3x/minute... no wonder he was nearly deaf.
maxresdefault.jpg
he would have been in this turret for this picture and video. port side in the foreground.
 

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Joe band my grandfather was on the USS Pennsylvania. Later on the destroyer Helm at Pearl Harbor.

image.jpg

image.jpg
 

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tweaker,
if you make it to the liberty station trader joe's you can see a pic of my grandfather with his graduating navy recruits circa 1948.
 

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Bringing this thread back to carb venting issues... ;) Thanks everyone for this info...mine would die if I splashed a bit too fast through a 3" puddle. Followed some awesome info from here and now I can plow through as much water as I want without it skipping a beat. *But it was only up to here on the ducks....*
 

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I realize I'm necro'ing an old thread, but it was referenced in another thread and not a single photo will load for me, I'm guessing the links are all dead. Does anyone have photos of this carb vent mod?
 

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213597
 

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What are you using for hose clamps? Those look like tiny cable ties, but I don't see the locking mechanism.
 

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What are you using for hose clamps?
Not my thread, but given that it's an air hose (non-pressurised) connection, as per Errtu's pic, no clamp is needed

If you want to be a perfectionist, you can put an islolator tap on the bottom run, but unless you're doing a cross channel run, it's probably not necessary

Depending on carb make, the "tube" can appear on either side, but you get the general idea .......
 

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Does this only apply to the CV carbs?
 
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