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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Caveats:

YMMV

Volume measurements were done using a ratio rite. That necessarily involves some interpolation (read: guessing). NONE of this is meant to be any sort of substitute for true facts. The fork was not disassembled and wiped clean for each measurement.

Depth/distance/level measurements were done with a piece of hose, marked at insertion point, measured between that point and where the hose got wet. Spring/spacer out, tubes at max short. (that might be min short?)

I went back and forth a few times, taking into account (another guess) as to fluid residuals to get relatively the same numbers, so they aren't crazy wrong.

A pic of what came out is attached. Looks purple. No reason to think this is NOT OEM oil. I am not the original owner, but the bike came with no handguards, no skid plate, two row (OEM) pegs, and no kicker starter. It's unlikely, those issues NOT being addressed, that the guy messed with the forks.

Please consider 'approximately' to go in front of all of these figures.

Oil out: 7oz. Height: 152mm There were rebound hydraulics happening at that level.

8oz. of oil showed a 130mm height.

Spring preload: 5/8", or 16mm (remember...about...'cuz 5/8" is NOT 16mm.

Tube height in top clamp: UP .230"

Fork travel: 5.75", 145mm. Yes, I am aware of the 6" figure listed elsewhere. My measurement was done with the fork out of the bike, from inner tube completely collapsed to tube fully extended. There is no more 'max' travel to be had.

I refilled with Mobil1 ATF. It's perfect in my dirt bike. It will do in the T-dub. Doing my own half fast viscosity tests (speed of drips off a pointy thing (a General #80 mechanics scribe with a given depth and time), the oil that came out was closer to Mobil1 ATF than to what was in a bottle of BelRay 10W fork oil.
 

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Right, stock oil is purple. The only thing missing is that you need to exercise the forks a dozen times full down to full up before measuring the level when replacing oil.

Why put the forks .230 up in the triple tree? Need to lower the front end? Normal setting is 1/8 inch or the same as the thickness of the outer edge of the cap. With that setting you get exactly 6 inches of travel.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Right, stock oil is purple.
I didn't know that was the case. Thanks for the confirmation.

The only thing missing is that you need to exercise the forks a dozen times full down to full up before measuring the level when replacing oil.
Granted...if this was a 'how to' thread it would include such information. The post is a 'what was'. Before any measurements were taken, the forks were purged.


Why put the forks .230 up in the triple tree? Need to lower the front end?
'No,' is the answer to your question. It is simply how they were assembled from the gitgo.

Normal setting is 1/8 inch or the same as the thickness of the outer edge of the cap.
Granted, the cap edge just out of the top clamp is more often 'normal'.

With that setting you get exactly 6 inches of travel.
Sorry, but...no. As long as the distance between the top of the bottom tube to the bottom of the lower clamp exceeds the designed travel, where the top tubes are in the top clamp have no effect on fork travel.

The measurement I made was with the fork out of the bike, from inner tube bottomed to fully extended, having nothing to do with installation.
 

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If you scroll down to the bottom of this page, "similar threads", you will find much of this information documented - but additional experiences are always welcome, as what can be gained from reading one persons account, can often be "augmented" by anothers

Thanks go the OP for posting this up as a personal experience concerning what everyone needs to consider at some point ...... ;)
 

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....Sorry, but...no. As long as the distance between the top of the bottom tube to the bottom of the lower clamp exceeds the designed travel, where the top tubes are in the top clamp have no effect on fork travel......
Oh, right....duh. However, I could swear when I put my emulators in last December, I measured exactly 6 inches of travel.
Since I get to do that all over again in a week or so :)mad:) , I'll measure again.
 

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Fork total travel is 6 inches. I’ve reread some of Lizrdbreath’s (and others) fork wisdom like a thousand times. Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Oh, right....duh. However, I could swear when I put my emulators in last December, I measured exactly 6 inches of travel.
Since I get to do that all over again in a week or so :)mad:) , I'll measure again.
The difference is of no matter unless you are trying to tune the front end to the nth degree...and why anyone would bother trying that on a TW, I have no idea.

Again, that is the measurement on my forks...not anyone else's. It was not posted as a nit to be picked. I am not disagreeing with anyone or trying to set some record straight. Chalk it up to parallax if you like. The point intended was this: If your forks don't quite measure up to 6", don't fret over it. Mine don't either.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
This bit fits into this thread and should have been posted earlier...'cuz it fits. Now, it's here.

My TW manual says/shows this:

IMG_1641.jpg

If you can't see it, it indicates the fork tube is to be 'up' .240" in the top clamp. That is the fork, not including the cap.
 

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This bit fits into this thread and should have been posted earlier...'cuz it fits. Now, it's here.

My TW manual says/shows this:

View attachment 169506

If you can't see it, it indicates the fork tube is to be 'up' .240" in the top clamp. That is the fork, not including the cap.
I suppose as long as you don't go .250 you should be fine.


Tom:p
 
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