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Good evening, before I tear apart the carb and do a thorough clean, thought I would see if anyone has any ideas. Here’s what I have.

Just picked up a 2017, 45 miles on odometer. It’s clearly been sitting in a garage for awhile.

Bike starts first push cold with choke on. Once warm push choke in to half choke, idles fine, but if I give it some throttle, immediately dies. Also immediately dies when choke pushed completely off. Bike will run when on full choke, I took it for a quick cruise around the neighborhood.

Any help with simple things to check before a full carb clean and rebuild greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance, I’ll take my answer off air?.
 

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Welcome to The Forum! Try a very strong dose of seafoam. Give it some time to work as you ride it around.
 

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Dump the old gas out now and put in new fresh gas, ethanol free if you can find it.
 

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Following...I too have the same issue. Runs/idles best with the choke on full. When the choke is in the off/half position and I roll on the throttle it bogs down and dies. I will give Seafoam a shot...
 

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Lucas deep clean fuel system cleaner works better than Seafoam, but you can't find it everywhere. I've felt a difference with that stuff within a mile or two. It has saved me from having to open carburetors more than once...
 

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3 or 4 oz should do it.
 

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If it doesn't work, unfortunately the carburetor will have to come apart. Pay very close attention to the pilot jet. All the little holes have to be spotless.
 

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No amount of magic will fix the problem. you will need to remove the carb and clean out the jets and carb body. There is a plug over the needle screw that will need to be carefully drilled then removed with a wood screw. combustion chamber cleaner will remove any of the deposits on the jets and make them look like new again. You just have to make sure that it does not soak any of the rubber parts. To clean out the carb is not that hard to do and will save you the many hours of grief of trying to avoid the inevitable
 

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Check air cleaner and carb boots too. You never know if they’re not installed properly or of a critter brought in some lunch and a blanket. I would also play with the air/fuel mixture screw or at least find out where it’s currently set.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the suggestions, think I’m just going to proceed with a complete carb clean. Do people usually order a rebuild kit to replace gaskets, o rings, etc when they do a complete carb clean?
 

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Well, had a completely clogged up pilot jet. Took about 15 minutes with a guitar string to open it up. Seems to be running fine, so going to delay tearing the carb apart for a bit in order to get a little riding in. Thanks for all the suggestions.
 

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Switch the fuel to off. Pull the tank off and drain the old gas from both the ON and RESERVE positions on the petcock and see if there is any difference in flow between them, and as it begins to empty out, swish what's left around a little bit and tilt the tank so any gas in the right side comes over to the left. Flush it some more with a little bit of fresh gas as well doing the same thing, both in the on and reserve positions on the petcock. (If you have an air compressor, blowing some air back through with the cap off the tank is good at removing blockages. Has fixed the issue on a couple I've bought that had sat like that for years) It's amazing to me how gasohol can gum stuff up and we still use this junk.

* Being that it only has 45 miles on it, it probably still has the mixture screw at 1/4 turn out from the factory. Pull the cover off that screw (silver cap closest toward the engine side of the carb underneath) and turn it in until it just seats. Don't crank it all the way in hard, just bottom it out, and then turn it out 2 1/2 turns. Many posts on here about how to do it. If that does the trick, tweak this screw adjustment for the fastest throttle response and return to idle after letting go after you have the engine up to operating temp.
 

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Thanks for the suggestions, think I’m just going to proceed with a complete carb clean. Do people usually order a rebuild kit to replace gaskets, o rings, etc when they do a complete carb clean?
Yes. You may as well if you are going to pop the float bowl off as you'll probably need a new float bowl gasket, and since you've opened it up on a bike that sat that long you may as well replace the float valve. If you ever decide later down the road to play with the jetting, the hex key screws for the float bowl will save you a possible headache later on. All Balls racing and Moose racing sell a rebuild kit, but I'm pretty sure they are both the same kit with different brand stickers on it.
 
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