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Discussion Starter #1
In the course of researching for my rebuild project I compiled a list of what I have termed "TW Tips". These tips are just various nuggets of information that I felt important to copy and save for a later date. I have decided to share the list I compiled below. Keep in mind this list is far from inclusive and is probably in the most random order possible. Feel free to add your own 'nugget' or one that you have found on this forum or the old forum.


Parts Unlimited Sprocket Part Numbers: Countershaft 13 K22-2601B 14 K22-2675 15 K22-2601C Rear Wheel 44 K22-3602L 47 K22-3695 50 K22-3603J 54 1210-0154

JT also sells sprockets for the TW JTF1559.14 is the only countershaft sprocket available. It has 14 teeth. Rear sprocket part numbers are JTR1842.xx with the xx replaced by the number of teeth you want. Available teeth counts are : 37, 42, 44, 45, 47, 49, 50, 51, 52, 54, 55 If you want a 45-tooth wheel sprocket, the part number will be JTR1842.45. All the JTR1842.xx sprockets are steel.

Forks are 33mm. The inexpensive universal headlight mounts mostly come in two ranges. Get the smaller ones.

I got a new cotter pin for rear wheel axle nut. Two M5x10 keeper bolts for my front sprocket. I got eight M6x25mm, and two M6x35mm Allen Head Stainless for left side cover. And one M6x25mm for the oil filter cover. The 5mm Allen fits these.

Be sure to use some kind of never-seize on those stainless bolts - I work in the marine industry, and stainless will bond to aluminum over time, especially if moisture is involved. I recommend Tefgel, available at your local west marine store, but never-seize will do. Tefgel is made specifically for stainless to aluminum.

A normal flasher requires a certain amount of juice to make it flash. Led's are very low juice, thus no flashy flashy. solution is run a electronic flasher.


First is #56111 Fork and Dust Seal kit.

Then #221008 Steering Bearing Kit.

Also #251227 Rear Wheel Bearing Kit.

Of course #251038 Front Wheel Bearing Kit.

Then finally #281126 Swing Arm Bearing Kit.

Suzuki Fork Boots Part #51173-41603.

Supertrapp 3 in. pipe (1 1/4 inlet) and core ~ 3171250

The sportster light is intended to be mounted from the top, but i just flipped the lens housing 180 degrees so it would shine correctly when mounted from the bottom.

If your powdercoater didn't mention this, don't risk destroying your steering races by removing them, just have them mask them off. Get the bushings out of your swingarm, if they're stuck in there. Also make sure they plug ALL the threads on your frame before they coat it. Good powdercoaters have silicone plugs for this purpose. Otherwise you'll spend hours retapping all the holes. Powdercoating is just thick enough that you'll tweak some of your tabs trying to force bolts into their holes.

Make double sure they plug the swingarm bushing tubes, as it really sucks getting the powdercoating out of there, and your bushings won't fit properly if you don't.

You need to get a 16mm crankcase breather. Can get them from any car/bike shop or about $10 on ebay. Crank Breather 62-2480. Air Filter RC-1890 with stock rubber hose used as extension

If those are LED turn signals, don't forget to order an electronic 2-blade relay.

Tdub is all LED/HID, even the gauge and indicator lights. I bought the LEDs from and the HID off ebay. I tried the 90* 1156 and 1157 replacements in the turns, but vibration killed the 1156s in just a few miles. I switched to the flat 36LED panels and glued them into the housings with a bit of silicon glue. The 1157s are still good. I have the 5W Luxeon in the tail light. Get the brightest bulb you can for the brake/tail. The Luxeon is brighter than stock. The multi-LEd indicator bulbs are too bright. Use the cheaper single LED versions. The only change I made other than bulbs is a flasher for LEDs. Just carry the old one into any auto parts store and ask for an electronic replacement that is not load sensitive.

General recommendation-change your fork oil every other year, and inspect forks for leakage regularly. Yamaha recommends checking forks every 6 months and/or 6,000 miles.


1. Remove front wheel -remove speedo cable from hub on left side.

2. Detach from left fork (speedo cable and front disc.

3. Loosen Fork pinch clamps and remove front forks, (I changed fork fluid using 10w suspension fluid)

4. Remove handlebars lay them back (I had gas tank and seat removed less likely to scratch tank.

I also placed the front disc up to where the gas tank was in order to get it out of the way and so that

the hoses do not get stretched-(may not be necessary but a precaution I take).

5. Remove bolts that hold on upper bracket and set bracket aside. (page 62-63 of service manual is very helpful.

6. Remove ring nut (I made a special tool for this, you can buy one or drive it off with a light hammer and

screw driver-alos a tool is helful for retorquing during assembly). Ok now support lower bracket while loosening the ring.

Note: when the nut comes off the lower bracket is free and you don't want to let it fall.

7. Final removal steps are-- removal of the bearings and driving out the old bearing races

(two in the steering head and one on the lower bracket stem-that's the hardest one to do-you don't want to

scratch the stem-- if possible--- in the race seating area). I used various punches to do this.

8. Then you install the All Balls bearing races into the head. Grease your bearing and reverse process.

when tightening the ring nut- first torque it to 27 ft-lbs then loosen the nut and re-torque to the ring nut to 13 ft-lbs.

This is done to get everything seated.

This should take a 2 to 4 hours depending what else you want to do and how familiar and confident you are.

Swingarm Ext.: I used a piece of 1 1/2" X 1" with a 3/16" wall thickness and a 1" X 3/16" filler strip on the bottom. I had to grind the strip some to get it to fit snug. Welded it up and there you have it.

On your brake / taillight, the black wire from the bike goes to ground and is common to both the brake light and the running light. The yellow wire from the bike goes to 12 volts when either the front or rear brake is applied while the blue wire from the bike has 12 volts on it whenever the ignition switch is on and goes to the running filament. There should be three wires on your new light. Just try all of the combinations across a 12 volt battery. There are three combinations that will light it up: Dim, a little brighter and really bright. Dim is when you have both of the filaments in series and you don’t want that.

You want a combination where one wire (grn or blk?) is left on one terminal and you can go from low to high intensity just by swapping the other two wires on the other terminal.

Fork Removal (Boots/Oil)

1. Remove front wheel, cable holder, and fender.

2. Loosen pinch bolts and cap bolts on triple tree.

3. Remove fork from triple tree.

4. Remove dust cover.

5. Remove cap bolt and collar.

6. Compress fork slowly and remove spring seat and spring.

7. Drain fork oil.

8. Use Damper Rod Holder PN YM-33256 and T-handle PN YM-01326 to loosen damper rod bolt.

9. Remove the damper rod bolt, copper washer, damper rod, rebound spring, inner tube, and oil lock piece.

10. Remove the dust seal and retaining clip.

11. Remove the oil seal.

12. Reassembly is the reverse of dissassembly. Use Loctite on the damper rod bolt. Torque damper rod bolt to 30nm (22ft-lb).

13. Apply lithium soap base grease to the oil seal.

14. Install oil seal using Fork Seal Driver PN YM-1368 and Adaptor YM-33963.

15. Install dust seal using Fork Seal Driver PN YM-1368 and Adaptor YM-33963.

16. Fork oil capacity 238ml (8.05 fl. oz.). 10W fork oil recommended.

17. The top of the inner tube should be 6mm above the top of the triple tree. Lower pinch bolts are tightened to 23nm (17 ft-lb).

18. Tighten cap bolts to 23nm (17 ft-lb).

19. Tighten upper pinch bolts to 23nm (17 ft-lb).

20. Loosen and retighten lower pinch bolts to 23nm (17 ft-lb).

21 Reinstall fender and wheel.

It makes a lot more since with the pictures in the manual.

Well I wasn't going to post this as it was not an overall success but i learned a lot during the process. Anyone got a spare swingarm?


1. cut swingarm at midpoint of the straight section (bench top chop saw)

2, make extension splints (1/8" steel). I used some slightly oversize tubing that i cut down lehgth wise to sleeve inside the swingarm. i was able to get a good 2" inserted into each end.

3. made a 12-5/16" spacer tube in place of the rear wheel to hold that end,

4. assemble and set up on machinists blocks and checked for square. Read mistake below

5. Tack weld and check for square (refer to #4 above)

6. weld it all together & stitch up the splints.

MISTAKES: something shifted while tack welding and one side of the swingarm (shock -pivot end) and the result is one side of the swingarm is at an up-angle. I didn't notice this until it was too late and i had welded all around the splint. I attribute this to two factors; being in too much of a rush, not double checking everything after tack welding. I thought the clamps and blocks would keep everything level, but no.

One side is perfect the other is not good. I will try and grind out the weld to see if i can re-align it. If i can't, i will need another swingarm.

Just take the max wattage of your bulb, divide that number by 12 for the current and add about 100% for a safety margin. For example, a 60 watt bulb / 12 = 5 amps plus 100% = 10 amp fuse. The wires can handle the current and the surge current for a dark filament is pretty high.

A simple slice with a razor blade and the old ones will peel right off. Now to put the new ones on, this is no joke, smear a very small amount of liquid dish soap on the bar and inside the grip and the new grip will slip right on like nuthin. the grips will squirm around for a while and you can fine tune the positioning, then let them set. Give it a day or so and the soap will dry up and hold the grips like glue. I've always done it like this, I never use wires and the grips never move once dry.

Your dealer should be able to buy from Parts Unlimited, no? My dealer was, and my front 15T was $19.

Give them this Parts Unlimited part number:



PBI is a company located in Oregon. They manufacture the following countershaft sprockets that will fit the TW200/Sierra 200GY-2:

12-tooth sprocket, part #50-733-12

13-tooth sprocket, part #50-733-13

14-tooth sprocket, part #50-733-14

15-tooth sprocket, part #50-733-15

I have also seen reports of a 16-tooth sprocket, part #50-733-16. However, this sprocket might not be currently manufactured.

All PBI sprockets should be able to use the Zongshen/Yamaha sprocket bolts and retaining clip without modification.

Parts Unlimited also markets countershaft sprockets that fit the Zongshen 200GY-2:

13-tooth sprocket, part #K22-2601B

14-tooth sprocket, part # K22-2675

15-tooth sprocket, part # K22-2601C

It has been reported that the Parts Unlimited sprockets require larger bolts, and larger holes must be drilled in the sprocket retaining clip.

JT Sprockets produces one model that fits the TW200/Sierra 200GY-2:

14-tooth sprocket, part #JTF 1559.14

Sprocket Specialists produces two models that fit the Zong 200GY-2/Yamaha TW200:

14-tooth sprocket, part #566-14

15-tooth sprocket, part #566-15

It has been reported that these sprockets are a very tight fit on the countershaft.

Sunstar Sprockets makes one model that fits both dual sport motorcycles:

14-tooth sprocket, part #21314

Of course, Yamaha markets a sprocket for their TW200:

14-tooth sprocket, part #93823-14149-00

And finally, Zongshen manufactures a sprocket for its Sierra 200GY-2:

14-tooth sprocket, part #23401-L067

Upgrade to a larger tank (the XT350 tank is a direct fit)

RBC 10 type battery.the small RBC10 sealed battery has enough juice to start the bike.

Here are some details on how I mounted the fuel bottles. I used 3" Quick Fists -

these are transportation grade rubber clamps that were originally designed to hold

fire hose nozzles to the side of a fire truck. I bought mine on ebay.

They hold a 1 liter fuel bottle very securely.

I mounted the Quick Fists to pieces of flat aluminum stock 1.5" wide by 1/8" thick by 5" long.

These were then mounted to the forks using the lower triple clamp bolts. This mounting provides

clearance for the turn signals and also for the gas tank during full lock turns.

Kickstart pedal: Cut the peg off, grind it flat, drill a proper sized hole, then tap it.

Thread the pedal in, use loctite. BMX pedals are tough. Use the right pedal because the the left

pedal has left-hand threads. The thread for a BMX pedal is 9/16 20t.p.i. for the right side pedal.

Most bicycle shops have these taps on hand too.

The tap drill size for a 9/16-inch x 20 tpi thread would is 0.5125 inch.

In a fractional size, this is nominally 33/64-inch.

You can totally eliminate the kickstand switch from the system as follows:

Cut a piece of #16-18 wire about 4" long. Strip the insulation back about 1/2" on both ends and bend the wire into a "U". Follow the switch wires to the connector (up near the seat). Unplug the connector and insert the ends of your jumper wire between the two female pins (blue/white-to- blue/yellow wires on early bikes, blue/white and black/white on later models, IIRC)on the harness (bike) side.. Secure them to the connector with electrical tape and go ride the bike.

If that solves the problem, the switch can be disassembled, contacts cleaned, spring replaced or temporarily stretched. If you don't feel confident with that, a better temporary fix is to cut the wires between the connector and the switch, then solder or wirenut them together. You can either ride it for the rest of your life like that (my recomendation), or continue riding the bike until the new switch arrives.


Black is ground

Yellow is high beam

As with all carb work there is a bit of trial and error, even on identical bikes.

The carb tutorial by Centerline I linked to in an earlier post, suggested using 5 (.01) washers as shims under the needle. I ended up using 3. Unfortunately you need to disassemble and reassemble the carb for each trial...can be a pain. If you are careful, you can remove the throttle cables, loosen the carb clamps, and rotate the carb 90 degrees to change the shims without having to fully remove the carb.

Three steps to a proper running TW200:

1. Shim the needle.

2. Change the main jet to a #130 or #132.5. I have a #130 in mine right now, and it works fine.

3. Remove the plug blocking access to the idle screw, then adjust it properly. Turn it all the way in (GENTLY seating it), then back out about 2 - 2 1/2 turns. May need some further tinkering.

IF you have dinked with the throttle adjustment screw, you'll have to dink with it again after making these changes, 'cause it'll be too fast.

Order a float bowl gasket when you order your jets, as the one on the carb may be shot after you remove the bowl to change the main jet. You can get jets from for a reasonable price, and they carry the gaskets too... that's where I got my parts.

Green is low beam

If you need a new clutch, you need to get ALL the parts. If you do not replace all the parts the new clutch will not work right, and you can damage the clutch basket. You need to replace the clutch plates, the friction plates, and the springs. Also, soak the new clutch plates in motor oil (which you use on the bike) for at least a day before you put on the new clutch.

Use lock-tite on the clutch spring bolts and do not over-tighten. Get a new clutch cover gasket, do not reuse the old one. Lastly, change your oil when you get a new clutch. My clutch was about 80% gone at 13500 miles.

The swingarm rides on replaceable bushings with oil seals. Part numbers and quantities I bought for Tdub:

2JX−22123−00 BUSH, 1

2JX−22124−00 BUSH 2, 1

90386−18146 BUSH, 2

90380−18139 BUSH, SOLID, 2

93109−18020 OIL SEAL, 2

401−22128−01 SEAL, GUARD, 2

401−22127−00 SHIM, 1

I bought a kit from All Balls. Works very well. Comes with everything except the thin washers.

2JX−22141−00 SHAFT, PIVOT, 1

1,703 Posts
Sorethumb, Thanks for the compilation. I've not had time to evaluate all recommendations, but I have indeed copied the entire post to a document and saved it in my Yamaha file. It is an instant resource. Tom

172 Posts
Hey I am curiouse about the carb needle shim and jet. I live at sea level. Seattle area. Are your settings (3 shims and #130 jet) for sea level area? I definately want my carb doing as much as it can for me!



p.s. Im a noobie to the TW. Been riding a WR250f for 3 years and am pretty confident with carb work.

663 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Yamamont, the above are nuggets or tips that I have pulled from many threads and do not necessarily represent any of my settings. For carb tuning, check out the Tech Help forum, there are several carb stickys up top.

453 Posts

this thread was handy in giving an idea how to bypass the side/kick stand safty switch... going over bumps could sometimes activate the switch!!! embarrassing and potentially dangerous loss of power!

172 Posts
Sorethumb, thanks man, I got some shims and a 130 jet for my TW, thanks to all the info here. I have only had my bike a few weeks and have put on almost a 500 miles with 130 miles of singletrack! Hooray. My WR250 is collecting dust.
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