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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Bike down waiting on electrical parts. Removed head to clean hopefully to keep the oil cleaner longer. Discover the exhaust side can chain guide is so worn it's split. Is this tuff to replace? What else should I look at? Any advice is appreciated. Here are the pictures.
 

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Bike down waiting on electrical parts. Removed head to clean hooding to keep the oil cleaner longer. Discover the exhaust side can chain guide is so worn it's split. Is this tuff to replace? What else should I look at? Any advice is appreciated. Here are the pictures.
Love to see the pics, not attached.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Here they are. Could not get the regular forum upload to work on my phone had to log out and do it with mobile view


After zooming in on the intake cam chain guide picture noticed it's part metal. I think someone pointed this out in the thread.
So that's where the metal in my filter has been coming from. Mistaked it for clutch disc material.
No mechanical engineer here but Yamaha has got some smart ones. This is the only bike I have riding. Got it out of a nesesity for cheap transportation and a the ability to get out into nature. 50k and all that's been done is normal ware stuff. On my fourth set of tires, third set sprockets and chain. Clutch disks. Learned how to do all of that on here. Thanks.... It's only 196cc, I weigh more then the bike. Well built and inexpensive. The world would be a better place if more people could/would ride a TW.
 

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Congratulations on that mileage. I had to work on mine recently with 42000 miles. I poured oil into the exhaust port to see if my valve was leaking. I had done a base gasket change and didn't do this, once I put it back together then it decided not to start. It was running before and then I had to take it back apart due to a leaking valve. I disassembled the head except the valves. I took the head to a good machine shop along with the valve seals and they cleaned it up and did a valve job for $50.00 So my recommendation is check valves, go through carburetor no matter how good it was running. I didn't it had been running good but after it was reassembled the carb acted up as well. Change out the worn timing chain guide. I had to also. I only had wear on the intake side. Measure and inspect your cylinder for wear. Mine was still in spec so I passed on the piston and rings. My cylinder was much cleaner though. If your cylinder measures ok, soak a rag with Chemtool B12 and set on top of the piston and it will help loosen up that carbon. Put enough on the rag until nearly soaked but not dripping. Leave that overnight then clean in the morning.
 

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Just my opinion, the chain guide has to be replaced. If it is running well, I would replace the chain guide and chain and button it back up. Cleaning it up could create problems.the parts get "bedded" together and disrupting that part to part relationship might not turn out well. I have not replaced a chain or guide on the TW, not sure on how hard it is to do. Removing the carbon build up might be ok, but freshening the valves or head would likely create added cylinder pressure that could cause oil loss or blow by, making your oil "dirty" even faster.
 

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If it is on the left cam chain guide your in luck. These just pull straight up.
On the right cam chain guide you will have to remove the left side cover by the shifter and the flywheel, (you will have to either order the $10.00 puller bolt from ebay or use your rear axle bolt. It still doesn't come off easy. I put oil on the puller bolt and tightened it, loosened it, about 5 times repeating until it popped off. If you just crank down on it sometimes it will just ruin the puller bolt. There are one or two small bolts holed the right tensioner in.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Its the intake chain guide ( right side) that worn. So I have to remove the rotor assembly. If I'm doing that might as well replace the chain and sprockets. Was looking in line to price the parts and it looks like the bottom timing chain sprocket is not a separate part? Parts diagram shows it's part of the crankshaft. The bike was running fine not as much power but it goes. Looks like it will be park for a month or two :0(



Congratulations on that mileage. I had to work on mine recently with 42000 miles. I poured oil into the exhaust port to see if my valve was leaking. I had done a base gasket change and didn't do this, once I put it back together then it decided not to start. It was running before and then I had to take it back apart due to a leaking valve. I disassembled the head except the valves. I took the head to a good machine shop along with the valve seals and they cleaned it up and did a valve job for $50.00 So my recommendation is check valves, go through carburetor no matter how good it was running. I didn't it had been running good but after it was reassembled the carb acted up as well. Change out the worn timing chain guide. I had to also. I only had wear on the intake side. Measure and inspect your cylinder for wear. Mine was still in spec so I passed on the piston and rings. My cylinder was much cleaner though. If your cylinder measures ok, soak a rag with Chemtool B12 and set on top of the piston and it will help loosen up that carbon. Put enough on the rag until nearly soaked but not dripping. Leave that overnight then clean in the morning.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks AGman I do want to keep this bike running. I am learning a lot about it. It's treated me well so I'm gonna give some back. Oil changes are what has gotten me this far. It really has over 50k because the odometer was broken for six months or so. Going to try and find a machine shop locally.
At 50000km, you are going to have to give this engine some love. if you don't, you wont get much more out of it. Check my latest post on my blog for what I do for a basic top-end freshen up, with the (in your case) addition of cam chain guides (both), and I would be removing the piston and taking it, with the cylinder to a shop to get measured. Get that same shop to clean the head up for you, carbon removal, check cam, rockers, rocker adjusters, valve grind.

Did you notice any plastic in your oil filter or strainer? That's where the remains of the guides usually end up.

At a guess, I'd say your cylinder/piston will be in spec. and you will just need rings, really depends on your oil change intervals and how hard it's been used.
 

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50K on a little bike like this... you are to be commended. And also for giving it the love to continue rather than parting out.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the input and great blog link. Yes I had been finding what looked like metal in my filter but mistaked it for clutch disks debris. After looking at the picture zoomed in . The metal from the intake cam chain guide is where the debris was coming from. Some thing to keep in my mind before the next 50k miles :0)

At 50000km, you are going to have to give this engine some love. if you don't, you wont get much more out of it. Check my latest post on my blog for what I do for a basic top-end freshen up, with the (in your case) addition of cam chain guides (both), and I would be removing the piston and taking it, with the cylinder to a shop to get measured. Get that same shop to clean the head up for you, carbon removal, check cam, rockers, rocker adjusters, valve grind.

Did you notice any plastic in your oil filter or strainer? That's where the remains of the guides usually end up.

At a guess, I'd say your cylinder/piston will be in spec. and you will just need rings, really depends on your oil change intervals and how hard it's been used.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks that is some good news! How many times has that chain gone around? Amazing to me. Something to be said for oil changes. Sounds like you would have less work if the owners of those AG200s would changed their oil. Or more oil change work.

Both the sprockets will be OK, just replace the chain and guides.
 

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I have to ask, is this 50k MILES, or 50k KILOMETERS?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
50,000 miles nothing done to the engine but oil changes and adjusted the valves a couple of time. It has been my only transportation since August 2011. The odometer reads 48,300 but it was broken for six months or so I am certain it has over 50,000 miles on it. It has been the most economical and reliable transportation I have ever owned. Will be going through the engine latter this month. Per suggestions from the great people on this forum I found a local motorcycle shop for $70 I can use a bench in the shop for a month. Looking forward to learning.

I have to ask, is this 50k MILES, or 50k KILOMETERS?
 

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Nice! Are you running stock gearing? And what is your typical cruising speed during your average commute? Also, how many of those 50k miles would you estimate are off road (and what does your typical off road riding consist of)?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Its not uncommen for for me to tuck down and run at 70mph for 5-10 miles. Most of my off road is sandy single track of keep trails. Not at lot of places to ride around Orlando most land has been purposed to strip malls. Been up to Ocala notional forest lots of sugar sand and out west of here to the green swamp. I needed transportation and wanted something to get out into nature. It's been very good to me even with the highway abuse. I am guessing I still don't know the full capability of a TW200 until I get to ride it off road in the mountains on some single track trails. Right now it's only three miles to work but it's 45-50 mph just to keep up with traffic. I go out to the lake apopka wildlife drive when I can that is 15 miles one way and I am forced to ride High way 441 on the way back. Speed limit is 55 but everyone is doing 70 easy. The bike will do that but it's got nothing left throttle wise.

Nice! Are you running stock gearing? And what is your typical cruising speed during your average commute? Also, how many of those 50k miles would you estimate are off road (and what does your typical off road riding consist of)?
 

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I didn't hit the 50,000 yet. I'm only at 42,300 and some change. I have rode mine mostly on the streets, though I have jumped some small hills, ran through mud and went on trails upon occasion. I have stock gearing on mine. I changed my oil basically like a car, about every 3,000 miles (street use). I think trail riding should be serviced by hours ridden, my opinion. I use Valvoline 20/50, I am in Texas where it is Hottttt, most of the time. I always add Marvel Mystery Oil in my gas, 1/2 oz per tank. We only have ethanol tainted fuel in our area. My average speeds were hit it a d get it, probably between 35-55 about 90% of the time. I would hold it wide open on short bursts on the freeway. The exception was about 100 miles nearly wide open one day with speeds between 60 and 65, 70 if drifting or down a hill.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I am running everything stock except for the Clarke tank and Oring chain. I have use only Yamaha motor oil. My interveral for changing the oil was is based off how the shifting feels. If the oil gets dirty the bike starts not wanting to find the gear easy under down shifting, change the oil and problem solved. I've spent just under $250 in oil over the past five years.


and what are your oil change intervals? what oil do you use to get 50,000 miles on this wee motor?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
More pictures of used parts opinions/suggestions appreciated. While awaiting part and time. Decided to clean the carburetor and starter motor. Has anyone used the $27 on eBay carb rebuild kit? How do the rubber parts look in the attached pictures? I priced all the rubber parts and jets, needles from where I've been buying my parts it's over $175.00. Recommendations? Also where I purchased the OEM replacement stator I got the three replacement bolts ( I had not done this the last time I had the stator out and also did not clean the threads very good on both the bolts and case side. When I opened it this time one of the bolts was backing out almost half way). The parts supply store must have an old parts diagram today I'm done cleaning it and go to the 2001 + supplemental manual shows washers. How important are these washers. Can I get some from a hardware store? What type of Loctite? What was that rubber glue like stuff on the surface of the rubber grommets, stair and pick up coil? Didn't seen anything in the manual about what was used. Can I just put some silicon on them? Thank you for the advise.
 

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