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Hi all,

I know there's chatter here and there about the t-dub and the versahaul motorcycle hitch carrier, however I couldn't quite find pics of how a TW sits on one especially in the fat-rear-tire zone while I was shopping. Having just procured a VersaHaul today, I thought I'd share some pics of my first loading of the TW on it.

The slight squat in the pickup (a.k.a. the "LA tilt") was there before the VersaHaul was mounted. I'm going to be fixing that very soon with either blocks or airbags (or both) to accompany the recently installed Fox2.0 suspension. So it's not terribly related to the weight on the tongue (but maybe a little). Ignore the straps, those are NRS straps just to hold it up there for the pics. Wouldn't drive the truck in this config. Proper tie downs not shown in pics.

IMG_0817.jpg IMG_0812.jpg IMG_0815.jpg IMG_0816.jpg IMG_0814.jpg

It was so much easier for me to load this on the carrier than putting it in the bed of the pickup... night and day.

I can't yet comment on how it drives loaded down the road or holds the bike steady, but I suspect it's going to be fine. I can say how it goes down the road unloaded: just fine. Not noisy, but not zero NVH; some noise from the way the ramp mounts to the carrier. Looks like a well engineered piece of equipment. The most novel thing in the whole design to me is the "Heavy Duty Anti-Tilt Lock Bracket" (p/n VH-070) that keeps the entire assembly from rocking left to right. It's so functional and simple. It can be used with my unrelated 4-bike rack in the future to keep that thing from tilting as I motor down the road. I should have known about these sooner:
41CRwq0LQ0L._SR600,315_PIWhiteStrip,BottomLeft,0,35_PIStarRatingFOUR,BottomLeft,360,-6_SR600,315.jpg
 

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great pics and info!

I have 100k miles plus using a versahaul I prefer the 600lb rated Sports Bike model because of the slightly wider and longer deck and it also doubles as my canopies back porch

I also pull Kendon trailers behind mine and it causes the trailer to track exactly in the trucks track so I could go through tight drive throughs with a trailer if they had overhead clearance
 

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Yes, the VersaHaul is definitely a very nice, premium quality carrier that handles the TW's fat tires just fine. The only downsides are that it is very heavy and very expensive.
 

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Well,
We just got back from a 2,500-2,700 mile vacation with our motorhome carrying the T-Dub on a Versa Hauler and, towing our '15 Jeep JKUR. I had that TW off and back on that rack, oh, maybe no less than 20-30 times while on that 5 week vacation. I'd not used one before this and, I'm way more than happy. As for the fat little rear tire fitting in the tray, not a problem at all. In fact, I've got plenty of wiggle room for that tire so that the ramp sits in it's carrying position with ease. And, what's wrong with your straps? I can't zoom in on them too close but, I used four of the older style friction grip straps that were the kind used decades ago when we first started riding. I never, ever had one fail then, and, with that recent trip, didn't have any fail again. You're not holding down a full dress Harely or Goldwing, it's a 278 lb TW. And, even then, all you're doing is stabilizing it, not holding the weight. Everyone's got to use what's gonna work for them. I have zero problem using those friction type.
Scott
 

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In your last picture (original poster) your bike does not seem to be rigged straight. It'll help balance the load between your tie-downs if you do.

VersaHaul is one of the best tools in my garage. However that hitch collar that comes with it is a piece-of-shit. Toss it, Amazon sells these very basic and very butch collars for under $20.00 from a number of suppliers. A real good investment in my opinion:


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IMG_5371.JPG


IMG_1766.JPG

IMG_1911.JPG

Perhaps pushing the envelope, Ha:

IMG_1127.jpg

IMG_1129.jpg
 

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I always lean my bikes to the back like the OP to help the handle bars clear my camper top and the back of my Sprinter van you need at least 4" clearance to prevent impact with your vehicle and I have the dents to prove I learned it the hard way

the Versahaul anti rattle clamp has always worked great for me

re straps I use ratchet style and I use 8 straps 4 on each side triangulated as I've had strap failures on long trips when using just 4
 

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"the Versahaul anti rattle clamp has always worked great for me"

That's what I thought too until one of the six guys I ride with showed up with one of these. Far superior and for the life of me don't understand why VersaHaul has not upgraded to this style and design. Live a little and try one, just $12 bucks out of all your BW $$ :), you'll be surprised.
All of us have these now, I wouldn't kid ya:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ISA2CUO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
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"the Versahaul anti rattle clamp has always worked great for me"

That's what I thought too until one of the six guys I ride with showed up with one of these. Far superior and for the life of me don't understand why VersaHaul has not upgraded to this style and design. Live a little and try one, just $12 bucks out of all your BW $$ :), you'll be surprised.
All of us have these now, I wouldn't kid ya:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ISA2CUO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Just bought one thanks to your post. :icon_thumleft:
 

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The Versahaul clamp worked great on my old Tundra, but the new one has a weld collar right where the bolts hit and so they keep sliding back and loosening. I think I need one of these. Thanks stagewex!
 

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Yep,
I got tired of the receiver/slider wobble and oscillation years ago so, I basically copied but, built a severely stronger model of a factory made one. The one that comes with the Versa Hauler is pure junk. While "they" might think it's ok 'cause they sell it, I tried it for about 30 seconds against what I made and, yep, theirs is in the scrap heap at home. I made mine from 3/4" round stock or, 3/4" grade 5 bolts. I sliced off the ends, did some file work, drilled two 9/16" holes and, purchased a two pack of "leaf spring" retention/suspension u-bolts from Tractor Supply. They're the exact right size for this application. They're also 1/2" diameter which, uses the supplied 3/4" Nylox nuts. They took me about an hour to make two of them. My initial test of them was a 6,500 mile trip around the U.S. last year, 20 states, 6.5 weeks and, our motor home, towing our '11 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 which, carried our '08 Honda GL 1800 Goldwing on a Rampage lift in the bed. For that total trip, not once, REPEAT, NOT ONCE did that hitch lock I created, ever come loose. And, with that 6,500 - 6,700 lbs pushing up and down, side to side on a constant towing basis, that hitch lock never budged.
Scott IMG_2877.JPG IMG_1010.JPG IMG_1015.JPG IMG_1027.JPG IMG_2845.JPG IMG_2848.JPG
 

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I think that's why VersaHaul gives you theirs for free?
It worked fine on my original Jeep Wrangler but one of the bolts barely made it if you know what I mean. There's no question the replacement collar "bites". And you don't have to go on your back to make sure you have good contact.

I have not yet towed a trailer behind the VersaHaul but if I do I'll get another one of these collars. Again, and no way saying the VersaHaul one does not work... it does. But this one is better in a KISS way (keep it simple stupid).
 

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I think that's why VersaHaul gives you theirs for free?
It worked fine on my original Jeep Wrangler but one of the bolts barely made it if you know what I mean. There's no question the replacement collar "bites". And you don't have to go on your back to make sure you have good contact.

I have not yet towed a trailer behind the VersaHaul but if I do I'll get another one of these collars. Again, and no way saying the VersaHaul one does not work... it does. But this one is better in a KISS way (keep it simple stupid).

This is why I made my own. They are about as simple as one can get yet, they are about 5 times stronger than any on the market, that I've seen/worked with/looked at etc. You can tighten the bejeezus out of them with a 3/4" wrench/socket and as stated previously, they all held without ever loosening, in over 2,500 miles. I had three of them in my operation for carrying the TW and towing the Jeep. One for locking the riser to the original motorhome receiver, one for locking the Versa Hauler to the riser and one for locking the Tow bar to the Versa Hauler. Due to the dynamics of that operation, there was lots of torque on all three of those joints and those home made "hitch tighteners" came through with flying colors.
Scott
 

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Chain'er down

I use stainless steel shackles on the handle bars and locking stainless carabiners on the hitch extensions, then chains with ratcheting chain binders to pull the suspension down at the front, simple straps on the rear, then two carbon fiber straps, one around each wheel and the hitch itself. This has held well over all roads to Alaska, entirely across Canada and back across the US on all sorts of roads on several trips.

IMG_0361.JPG
 

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I use stainless steel shackles on the handle bars and locking stainless carabiners on the hitch extensions, then chains with ratcheting chain binders to pull the suspension down at the front, simple straps on the rear, then two carbon fiber straps, one around each wheel and the hitch itself. This has held well over all roads to Alaska, entirely across Canada and back across the US on all sorts of roads on several trips.

View attachment 197520
WHOLLLY COWWWW BATMAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I guess you REALLY DON'T WANT that thing coming off of there do you? Man, talk about some SERIOUS overkill on the tie-downs!!! I use/used those old "Ancra" types for tie-downs. You know, the friction type. We just completed a 2,700 mile trip through about 5-6 states and 5.5 weeks. As stated earlier in this thread, the TW was also on our Versa Hauler, on the back of our motorhome for all that time and distance. Needless to say, those tiedowns I used seemed to work just fine. The bike was always secure, every time I checked it, at rest stops, over night when we stopped to camp etc. But, the use of "Ratchet chain binders", man, that's a first for me.
Scott
 
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Well,
We just got back from a 2,500-2,700 mile vacation with our motorhome carrying the T-Dub on a Versa Hauler and, towing our '15 Jeep JKUR. I had that TW off and back on that rack, oh, maybe no less than 20-30 times while on that 5 week vacation. I'd not used one before this and, I'm way more than happy. As for the fat little rear tire fitting in the tray, not a problem at all. In fact, I've got plenty of wiggle room for that tire so that the ramp sits in it's carrying position with ease. And, what's wrong with your straps? I can't zoom in on them too close but, I used four of the older style friction grip straps that were the kind used decades ago when we first started riding. I never, ever had one fail then, and, with that recent trip, didn't have any fail again. You're not holding down a full dress Harely or Goldwing, it's a 278 lb TW. And, even then, all you're doing is stabilizing it, not holding the weight. Everyone's got to use what's gonna work for them. I have zero problem using those friction type.
Scott
I agree with Fire-Up on the cam buckle straps. It is what BMW ships their $20-$30+K motorcycles with.
Safe enough for BMDUB, Safe enough for YTDUB!
 

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I love "Overkill" when ever I am trailering anything. In all of my travels I have never had a failure but I sure have seen enough of them. Just a few weeks back while on the NY Thruway I watched a guy up ahead of me lose two kayaks off his roof rack, racks and all still attached but his cross bars failed and it all took flight. Not a good plan to have 2 large kayaks on top and then be cruising along at over 75 MPH. Yesterday I watched a guy who had a new snowblower strapped all the way up front on his trailer. He had it tight so the blower could not slide backwards but no additional strap to stop it going forward. Some jackwagon cut in front of him and he locked the brakes up and the entire blower lifted and busted out his truck cap rear window. All he needed was one additional strap.
I watched a guy pulling his boat up the launch ramp after a day on the water. Some scumbag swiped his hitch pin while he was out on the water. Boat and trailer came away with the gooseneck and ball still in the trailer. Hitch pins that lock are a good idea but I can't use them here for winter trailering because the salt destroys the lock and you can't unlock them with the key or the lock tumblers freeze. I always just carry a spare cheap hitch pin and always check to make sure no one swiped it.

GaryL
 

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I love "Overkill" when ever I am trailering anything. In all of my travels I have never had a failure but I sure have seen enough of them. Just a few weeks back while on the NY Thruway I watched a guy up ahead of me lose two kayaks off his roof rack, racks and all still attached but his cross bars failed and it all took flight. Not a good plan to have 2 large kayaks on top and then be cruising along at over 75 MPH. Yesterday I watched a guy who had a new snowblower strapped all the way up front on his trailer. He had it tight so the blower could not slide backwards but no additional strap to stop it going forward. Some jackwagon cut in front of him and he locked the brakes up and the entire blower lifted and busted out his truck cap rear window. All he needed was one additional strap.
I watched a guy pulling his boat up the launch ramp after a day on the water. Some scumbag swiped his hitch pin while he was out on the water. Boat and trailer came away with the gooseneck and ball still in the trailer. Hitch pins that lock are a good idea but I can't use them here for winter trailering because the salt destroys the lock and you can't unlock them with the key or the lock tumblers freeze. I always just carry a spare cheap hitch pin and always check to make sure no one swiped it.

GaryL
Yeah Gary,
You're always gonna have Bone heads that do not or, are not capable of correctly securing items when trailering or hauling. Strap failure, ANY STRAP, is so rare, that it's for the most part, NEVER talked about and or mentioned. I have used those friction or, "Cam type" motorcycle tie downs for decades and as has been stated, have NEVER, EVER had one fail. Also, bad drivers, which like you stated, can cause severe maneuvers that may cause a load to shift, are always gonna be on this planet. No two ways about that. If there was a way to eliminate them, when things happen, we'd all be better off but, the bleeding hearts out there would shout cruel and unusual treatment or, punishment. Oh well, it is what it is. My Versa Hauler worked outstanding on the back of our motor home for the 2,700 mile recent trip, hauling our t-dub. I'd do it again in a heartbeat.
Scott
 
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