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Hello, I just came across a nice 99 TW200 with no firing what so ever and i have no idea where to start
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everyone keeps telling me different things to test stator, CDI box, Coils. PLEASE HELP!
TW200 Firing problem
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540 Posts
you have to tell us much more................
please define 'not firing at all'
does the engine turn over w/ the starter button
is there spark at the spark plug cap
is there spark at the plug
if it is turning over and your getting spark could be fuel/carb related.
the answer is in the details, be very descriptive on what you have, have done and symptoms.
please define 'not firing at all'
does the engine turn over w/ the starter button
is there spark at the spark plug cap
is there spark at the plug
if it is turning over and your getting spark could be fuel/carb related.
the answer is in the details, be very descriptive on what you have, have done and symptoms.
Joined
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48 Posts
Well i downloaded the manual and followed the steps of troubleshooting the problem, the actual problem is i am getting no spark what so ever from the spark plug, even doing the "take the spark plug out and holding it to the side of the motor while cranking the motor trick" still nothing. I have tested the stator with a ohms meter for continuity everything reads good getting beeps from the test "so i am guessing it's good?" i have tested the pulser coil but actually got no readings or beeps from that. Not sure if that sends signal or not. I am not very mechanically inclined any help will be greatly appreciated. I saw that the coil pack wire under the gas tank was messed up so i got a new coil and spark plug hoping for the problem to be fixed still nothing. A new stator for my bike would be $400 and pulser coil is $80. I am so lost i don't know what to do next and don't really have the money to take it to a shop to be looked at. So i guess my question is does the pulser coil put out ohm signals? i have tested every wire coming from the stator, CDI box, Coil pack, and the pulser wire is the only one not getting any beeps from the ohm tester. And no the bike doesn't start from the starter button, i have to cross it out with a screwdriver on the solenoid because i also don't have a kick start.
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48 Posts
starter it's self does work, the starter button doesn't work. I have took the kill switch off crossed it over and still nothing.
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48 Posts
Yeah i know that, but what about the firing? i can cross the solenoid out and still crank the bike.
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10,664 Posts
I'm thinking this particular bike has a systemic problem. Maybe something like extended exposure to corrosive atmosphere or simply a previous owner who was an assinine amatuer mechanic.
The repair manuals provide a step-by-step process for troubleshooting. My experience is that most people lack the self-discipline to read and follow the directions given. This is a penny-wise and pound-foolish mindset. Another common distraction is the desire to hear the engine run. "Just get it running" becomes a mantra. When I competed in auto mechanics competitions in high school this thinking was drummed out of us. It doesn't work, and in real life pushing for an immediate engine start is not only a waste of time, but puts other systems in disrepair at risk for further damage.
My favorite electrical system diagnostic tool is a 12 volt buzzer from Radio Shack mounted in a piece of PVC water pipe. The pipe provides protection from drops and bumps and a place to securely attach leads with some means of stress protection. It cost $0.99 years ago, but I'd expect a similar product would be under $5 today. A Velcro strap holds the device securely to my wrist.
With the buzzer and a schematic I can start at the battery and trace any circuit to any component in a matter of seconds once access to the wiring and components is obtained. I use a very systemic process that adds each stage of the circuit until a fault is found. When the fault is found, the last stage added is ALWAYS the problem. Something like this:
Battery - post to battery + post. buzz The battery is good.
Battery - post to cable end. buzz The connection is good.
Battery - post to other end to other end of cable. buzz The cable is good.
Battery - post to eye on wire to fuse. buzz the connection is good.
Battery - post to fuse holder. buzz The wire is good.
Battery - post to other end of fuse. buzz The fuse is good.
Battery - post to far end of fuse holder. buzz the fuse holder is good.
Battery - post to junction box. buzz Wire to junction box is good.
Battery - post to hot side of switch. buzz Wire to switch is good.
Battery - post to controlled side of switch. buzz when switch is pushed Switch is good.
Battery - post to wire from switch at selenoid. buzz when switch is pushed Wire from switch to selenoid is good.
Battery - post to control ground of selenoid. buzz when switch is pushed Switching circuit of selenoid is good.
NET: Nothing wrong with primary start circuit. Therefore, failure to start is in secondary (high amperage) start circuit.
If there is a low-conductivity point, the buzzer will have a weak tone. That's a dead giveaway the last point added has a loose, broken, or corrosion issue.
Point is, diagnosing electrical problems is best approached with a systemic process that eliminates functioning components as sources of the problem. Instead of asking "What is bad?" ask "What is good?" which leads to a process of elimination.
The repair manuals provide a step-by-step process for troubleshooting. My experience is that most people lack the self-discipline to read and follow the directions given. This is a penny-wise and pound-foolish mindset. Another common distraction is the desire to hear the engine run. "Just get it running" becomes a mantra. When I competed in auto mechanics competitions in high school this thinking was drummed out of us. It doesn't work, and in real life pushing for an immediate engine start is not only a waste of time, but puts other systems in disrepair at risk for further damage.
My favorite electrical system diagnostic tool is a 12 volt buzzer from Radio Shack mounted in a piece of PVC water pipe. The pipe provides protection from drops and bumps and a place to securely attach leads with some means of stress protection. It cost $0.99 years ago, but I'd expect a similar product would be under $5 today. A Velcro strap holds the device securely to my wrist.
With the buzzer and a schematic I can start at the battery and trace any circuit to any component in a matter of seconds once access to the wiring and components is obtained. I use a very systemic process that adds each stage of the circuit until a fault is found. When the fault is found, the last stage added is ALWAYS the problem. Something like this:
Battery - post to battery + post. buzz The battery is good.
Battery - post to cable end. buzz The connection is good.
Battery - post to other end to other end of cable. buzz The cable is good.
Battery - post to eye on wire to fuse. buzz the connection is good.
Battery - post to fuse holder. buzz The wire is good.
Battery - post to other end of fuse. buzz The fuse is good.
Battery - post to far end of fuse holder. buzz the fuse holder is good.
Battery - post to junction box. buzz Wire to junction box is good.
Battery - post to hot side of switch. buzz Wire to switch is good.
Battery - post to controlled side of switch. buzz when switch is pushed Switch is good.
Battery - post to wire from switch at selenoid. buzz when switch is pushed Wire from switch to selenoid is good.
Battery - post to control ground of selenoid. buzz when switch is pushed Switching circuit of selenoid is good.
NET: Nothing wrong with primary start circuit. Therefore, failure to start is in secondary (high amperage) start circuit.
If there is a low-conductivity point, the buzzer will have a weak tone. That's a dead giveaway the last point added has a loose, broken, or corrosion issue.
Point is, diagnosing electrical problems is best approached with a systemic process that eliminates functioning components as sources of the problem. Instead of asking "What is bad?" ask "What is good?" which leads to a process of elimination.
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48 Posts
Very good advice. I actually have spark now come to find out it was the kickstand kill switch, so i just cut the wire and wired it together. bike now has very good blue spark. BUT still the engine isn't starting. AND the spark plug is not getting wet with gas. So where to turn now? I actually put a little gas/ether in the spark plug hole thinking the carb might be stopped up. still no start. so what now?
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10,664 Posts
The timing is fixed so if you have spark, unless something is really fubared, it's not an ignition problem.
If it was mine I would do a complete service top to bottom, front to back. Not just the engine, the entire bike. I'd fix whatever I found along the way that needed fixing, including the start button. Then I would follow all the troubleshooting sections in the repair manual.
Then I would follow the fuel circuit from the gas cap to the exhaust tip checking one piece at a time eliminating possible problems. You should be able to wet the plug by pulling the enrichment knob while turning the engine over. If not, why not?
If it was mine I would do a complete service top to bottom, front to back. Not just the engine, the entire bike. I'd fix whatever I found along the way that needed fixing, including the start button. Then I would follow all the troubleshooting sections in the repair manual.
Then I would follow the fuel circuit from the gas cap to the exhaust tip checking one piece at a time eliminating possible problems. You should be able to wet the plug by pulling the enrichment knob while turning the engine over. If not, why not?
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48 Posts
meaning the choke/fuel screw?
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48 Posts
Tried that, thinking it's a warp valve, going to take the head off and see what's up.
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48 Posts
Well, i don't have a compression tester, and don't know anyone that does. local shop said it was $60 to diagnose the problem. :/
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866 Posts
Compression testers are fairly cheap these days.
They may be available for loan at auto parts stores as well.
They may be available for loan at auto parts stores as well.
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48 Posts
Yeah i found one for 20bux gonna get it and go from there. I noticed my bike was out of time from reading the manual i was looking for the T to time it but actually the H is what time's the bike. so i'm am pretty sure i have a warp valve now.
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48 Posts
Ok guys i tore the bike down today when i took the head off i sprayed ether on the valves and the ether came out of the intake so i most definitely have a warp valve, then i went to the piston and come to find out the bottom part of the piston was chipped so i am going to have to clean the bottom end of the engine and replace valves, piston, rings, timing chain, guides, gaskets pretty much do a whole new top end rebuild which is going to cost me $150 not bad at all. i am ordering my parts from www.stadiumyamaha.com they have a wide range of parts for quads/bikes. Also i wanted to ask would a 250 head off of a yamaha fit my bike. my dad and uncle seem to think so. if so it will save me some cash. i will reply with my progress as i go.
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