TW200 Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello to all,

Please tell me what Ultrasonic Cleaning machine to buy. Also can anyone tell me what Cleaning solution I should use? Thanks for any feedback.

GNolan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,377 Posts
I have the one harbor freight sells. Over all it works great for everything i have used it on.
https://www.harborfreight.com/25-liter-ultrasonic-cleaner-63256.html

Sometimes they have a coupon that makes it a lot cheaper.

As for a solution i have used pine sol mixed with water in mine with good success. Just make sure you rinse the parts after you take them out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,209 Posts
I have a 14L unit from Amazon about 8 yrs old and a small 3l unit from Craigslist. The big one is heated (Great for Sou Vide cooking) and the small one generates enough heat from using it.
Pine sol or Simple Green.

With detergents, LESS IS MORE. You are only trying to break the surface tension. Let the sound do the work. In the 14L tank, we use less than a cup of pine sol/simple green.

A friend mists his parts with non ammonia windex and tosses them in his tank with just water in it. His parts come out great, require no rinsing either.

Not kiddding about the Sou Vide thing. The tank will hold temp to within 2 degrees of setpoint.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,406 Posts
Here's the Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner:



I also have a much more expensive professional cleaner, which doesn't clean any better than HF one.

As far as the cleaning solution, Pinesol, Dawn, Simple Green will do. Just an ounce or two plus water.

The detergent is added to break the surface tension between the water and the surface of the part. It's the ultrasonic vibrations that do the cleaning.

If you don't have an ultrasonic cleaner, an overnight bath in 100% Pinesol will work,





jb
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
305 Posts
The HF cleaner has held up well for me. No complaints. It does have a pre-heater you can turn on, but like all smallish cleaners the sonic action generates a fair amount of heat on it's own.

As mentioned when it comes to ultrasonic cleaners, the detergent is really there to improve the cavitation of the water by reducing surface tension, which is what actually does the cleaning. Normally I throw a splash of simple green or purple power in (maybe a couple ounces) and the rest water. More cleaner does not equal better results (just wastes cleaner). Use the pre-heater until it gets nice and warm (the HF one only has one setting, 140* F), then turn the heater off and drop the carb in and cycle it for a few minutes. If the whole thing isn't submerged, turn it around and cycle again.

Like any carb cleaning, take everything apart to allow the water to get into all the nooks and crannies. I never have bothered with a rinse, just blow it out with shop air afterward and re-assemble.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,165 Posts
I use the HF unit and I echo everything said above. I have cleaned all sorts of parts, even rusty ones with a little vinegar in the water to help break up the rust. Pine Sol, Dawn, any grease cleaner works well, just use a little bit. If it's not perfectly clean on the first go around, reset the timer and do it again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,310 Posts
After you run it through the ultra unit it is also good to strip a length of stranded copper wire and take one small strand out. Run the strand of wire up into and of the tiny passages in the carb body just to make sure there are no clogs. Then run it through another cycle in the ultra. Compressed air directed to all the orifices blows any lingering water or solution out.
I have ran carbs through a number of cycles, rinsed and blew them out and another cycle in the solution. Then I cleaned the ultra unit and ran another cycle with clear water only. After allowing the ultra to sit a while and the clear water to settle there was more debris in the bowl. You can't hurt the carb by running it through numerous cycles in the ultra. Pine sol, white vinegar and even clear lemon juice all work pretty well while Dawn and Simple green work best for the first cycle to cut any grease. There is no such thing as Too Clean.

GaryL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19,443 Posts
Compressed air can drive debris further into orifices if blow in wrong direction. If using compressed air it is best to blow from cylinder side to air cleaner side for those fine passageways.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,866 Posts
I use a small ProSonik. I've never really read a bad review on any brand of these things but I'm sure there is one that sucks. All seem to be built in China but perhaps in different prisons.
This one is small but deep so I can get a lot of smaller parts in it but a whole carb body as well. The smaller jewelry cleaning version was too small. Kinda looks like a little french-fry maker to me. A lot of carbs and smaller rifle and pistol parts have gone through this thing. I use as others have mentioned, Simple Green and water. The ratio is based on how bad a particular piece is but 50-50 seems to be perfect. And the cleaning solution is just mental insurance anyway as it is really the ultrasound that does the work.

I am not a fan of using brake cleaner or carb cleaner in a ultrasonic cleaner. They are already toxic solutions so heating them to 175 or 180 as my little cleaner peaks at is changing the chemical structures itself. Actually let me re-phrase that... I do use both brake & carb cleaner but not in an ultrasonic cleaner. So if you are doing that or think "it'll make it even cleaner", please make sure you are doing it outside. The fumes themselves will become more toxic than ever:

IMG_8130.JPG

Small tiny parts. I add a bed of paper towel so that they are not sitting on the bottom of the tank in the debris:
IMG_8532.JPG

Carb body and bigger parts are done separately:
IMG_8100.jpg

Heating up. I think mine tops out at 175-180 degrees. Use tongs or needle nose-pliers to remove and flush under cool water:
IMG_8533.jpg

All done. This is one-half of a pair of 50 year old Bing carbs. All brass, copper and fine metal:
IMG_8101.JPG

Re-Assembled, polished and rebuild gasketed. They don't do this at a dealership:
IMG_8108.JPG

IMG_8515.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,866 Posts
Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
305 Posts
I'll note that whatever plastic the HF sonic cleaner is encased in, is instantly hazed by carb or brake cleaner, so keep those away.

Most US cleaners have warnings not to put flammable substances in them. I would not think putting any kind of harsh solvent in one is a good idea, nor would it be necessary.

It would be nice to have a deeper cleaner- the HF one is shallow enough that most carbs have to be "flipped", it's not deep enough to totally submerge them unless you're talking a little lawnmower or pitbike carb. But ultimately, I don't use it so often that it's a big concern, and this doesn't seem to have ever adversely affected results. Every carb that comes out has looked virtually new and after a rebuild, runs smooth as can be.

I sent my '08 TW's carb for a bath and treated it to a rebuild kit, just for grins. The bike ran perfectly fine before, but afterward, there was a notable improvement. Smoother idle, instant cold starting were most noticeable. Same story with the 6 carbs on my Valkyrie. Bike ran seemingly fine before, no complaints, but after a buzz bath and rebuild kit, wow, does it run like absolute butter now.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top