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Discussion Starter #1
2014, 900 miles, fresh oil change (dyno), proper break in followed etc...

My bike has been "difficult" to upshift since new. The difficulty is in comparison to all other motorcycles and atv's I've owned.

I wear fairly heavy leather boots when riding but the force it takes to upshift actually hurts the top of my foot. It's definitely worse when the bike is cold and seems to have less resistance when warm.

Fyi downshifting feels completely normal and has the typical clunk that you'd expect from this machine.
No clutch slipping, dragging or anything else abnormal.

Anyone experience this? Will it get better over time?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It's pretty normal. They always seem to shift better right after a oil change or when you go to synthetic oil later on. I wouldn't worry about it. Check to see if the clutch is fully dis -engaging.
Ok.... I'm fine with it if it's normal. My foot just needs to toughen up!

I prob won't change to synthetic until 2,000 miles. My memory tells me that it's suggested to use dyno until then...?
 

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Supposedly the greater "slipperiness" of the synthetic oils interferes with the proper break-in of rings; they need to scuff a bit against the cylinder wall otherwise a bit of glazing can occur leading to pre-mature compression loss....or so I have heard. Whether this is urban legend or accumulated motor-head wisdom I do not know, but it sounds credible and certainly saves a few coins during first couple thousand miles or so when we like to do frequent oil changes to flush out manufacturing and break-in debris.
As far as Mkfchef's upshifting difficulty I suppose if bike is still on warrantee it could go back to a Yamaha dealer so their mechanics can abuse the poor thing then return it saying " Dat's normal".:p
 

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Supposedly the greater "slipperiness" of the synthetic oils interferes with the proper break-in of rings; they need to scuff a bit against the cylinder wall otherwise a bit of glazing can occur leading to pre-mature compression loss....or so I have heard. Whether this is urban legend or accumulated motor-head wisdom I do not know, but it sounds credible and certainly saves a few coins during first couple thousand miles or so when we like to do frequent oil changes to flush out manufacturing and break-in debris.
As far as Mkfchef's upshifting difficulty I suppose if bike is still on warrantee it could go back to a Yamaha dealer so their mechanics can abuse the poor thing then return it saying " Dat's normal".:p
Always made me wonder, if synthetic is so slick how can a wet clutch handle it?
 

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Supposedly the greater "slipperiness" of the synthetic oils interferes with the proper break-in of rings; they need to scuff a bit against the cylinder wall otherwise a bit of glazing can occur leading to pre-mature compression loss....or so I have heard.
I figured that by 600 miles on a little engine like the TW was enough of a break in. So far, I can't see that the oil level has change any at my 1,000 mile oil change intervals. No smoke either. I've got just over 6,000 miles on it now. So I'm going with the "urban legend". :p
 

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Some engines, bikes and ATVs included come direct from the factory with full synthetic oil in them. For those who believe in this myth about brake in oil should be dino because Synthetic is too slick and will hamper brake in then go for it. For me, synthetic goes in when the original comes out because synthetic does not burn up and blacken like the dino oil will. Temperature and hotter running is the enemy to small air cooled motors so what ever I can do to thwart that is good for me.

GaryL
 

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I notice on both my TWs I seem to have to move my foot an inordinate amount upwards to get them to shift. Maybe its the way I sit on them, to far forward? I plan on rotating the shifter a spline or 2 to get it closer to my foot.
 

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I read synthetic is to slippery and the rings won't seat or won't seat as quickly as with dino. I don't know if it makes any difference but using dino with new rings is easy and cheap enough to do.

When installing new rings I use the "hard break-in" method with the first oil change at about 20 miles and the oil is loaded with metal flake. So I run dino for the first 20 miles then change and run dino for the next 1500 miles then switch to synthetic.

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Warning: We stand at the precipice of this discussion dropping into a full-blown Oil thread. Procede cautiously.
 

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To add to all the great advice and experience above, make sure your chain is adjusted within the proper specifications. Too loose and it becomes harder for me as you describe.
 
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